12.2.23

Poisonous Cosmetics

Manufacturer and builder 7, 1870

In December last, Dr. Lewis A. Sayre inclosed to Dr. Herris, Sanitary Superintendent of the Metropolitan District, a pamphlet, in which he described three cases of lead palsy produced by Laird's Bloom of Youth. This communication was laid before the Board of Health, together with notes from Dr. Harris and Sanitary Inspector Dr. Janes, in which attention was called to the great variety and large quantities of ats hair-dyes, commonly called hair restoratives, etc., consisting essentially of acetate of lead, and enamels consisting of carbonate of lead, which were sold in the Metropolitan District.

The board at once directed the chemist to invostigate the subject, and his report, which is here presented, fully confirms the opinions of the physicians. It was found, however, in the course of the investigation, that Laird' Bloom of Youth, the original cause of the Investigation, no longer consisted of carbonate of lead, but was compested of oxide of zinc. As soon as this was established by the report, the proprietor, who had admitted to the writer that his preparation had formerly consisted of a lead compound, complained with an air of injured innocence that the Board of Health had inflicted a great wrong upon hiss, had almost ruined his business. Articles have been inserted in the daily papers, in the interest of the Bloom of Youth, which reflect upon the chemist tothe board, as though he had wantonly, or by mistake, attacked an innocent citizen, and interfered with an hottest bustiness. We hold that, inasmuch as the Bloom of Youth has been for years composed of carbonate of lead, and we know this of our own knowledge, as a bottle was purchased about two years ago at a drugstore on Broadway, and tested at the School of Mines, which had this oomposition, and as, according to Dr. Sayre and Dr. Hammond, this preparation had produced lead palsy, the proprietor of the article has no just claim for sympathy, even though ho has finally, after so much harm has been done, changed its poisonous character.

Report of Prof. C. F. Chandler to the Metropolitan Board of Health.

Colonel Emmons Clark, Secretary Metropolitan Board of Health:
SIR: In response to the resolution of the Board, directing "the chemist to examine the various hair tonics, washes, cnometios, and other toilet preparations in general use, and to report what ingredients, if any, they contain of a character injurious or dangerous to those who use them," I beg leave to submit the following report of the results thus far reached. My examination has been specially directed to the mineral poisons; no teete have been as yet made for vegetable or animal substances, as, for example, cantharides, which I have melon to believe is sometimes employed.

The articles which I have examined may be classed as:
I. Hair tonics, washes, and restoratives.
II. Lotions for the skin
III. Enamels.
IV. White powders for the skin.

I. Hair tonics, washes, and restoratives.

Of these, sixteen have been examined, and, with but one exception, all have been found to contain lead, generally in the form of acetate or sugar of lead.

1. Hoyt's Hiawatha Hair Restorative. David Wright, Proprietor, 112 South street, New-York.
This is an ammoniaiacal solution of nitrate of silver, containing 4.78 grains of the nitrate in one fluid ounce. It contains no other metals.

2. Clark's Distilled Restorative for the Hair. C. G. Clark & Co., Proprietors.
This preparation contains in one fluid ounce:
Lead in solution .......... 0,11 grains.

3. Chevalier's Life for the Hair. Prepared by S. A. Chevalier, M.D., 1123 Broadway, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 0.22 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0.80 grains
Total lead .......... 1.02 grains

4. Pearson & Co.'s Circassian Hair Rejuvenator. J. S. Pearson & Co., 286 Jay street, Brooklyn, N. Y.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 1,40 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 1,31 grains
Total lead .......... 2,71 grains

5. Ayer's Hair Vigor. Prepared by J. C. Ayer & Co., Lowell, Mass.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 2,81 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0.08 grains
Total lead .......... 2,89 grains

6. Prof. Wood's Hair Restorative. O. J. Wood & Co., 444 Broadway, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 2,93 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0,15 grains
Total lead .......... 3,08 grains

7. The Hair Restorer of America. Prepared by Dr. J. J. O'Brien, 202 East-Thirtieth street, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 3,28 grains

8. Gray's Celerated Hair Restorative, Day, Hoagland & Stiger, 54 Cortlandt street, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... a trace.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 3,39 grains
Total lead .......... 3,39 grains

9. Phalon's vitalia. Prepared by Phalon & Son, 617 Broadway, New-York.
Consitas of two fluids in separate bottles.
No. 1 is a clear, pale yellow solution of Hyposulphite of soda.
No. 2 Is o. clear, pale pink solution, containing in one fluid ounce:
Lead .............. 14.03 grains.

As, by the directions which accompany the package, the lead solution is to be diluted with twice its volume of the hyposulphite solution, the strength of the mixture would be minced to one third, when it would contain 4.69 grains of lead in one fluid ounce. Prof. Lawrence Reid, the manufacturers' chemist, claims that the hyposulphite of soda renders the lead harmless by ultimately forming with it an insoluble sulphide of lead, and in various other ways. But after carefully considering all his arguments, I am compelled to say that I can not accept them as valid.

10. Ring's Vegetable Ambrosia. E. M. Tubbs & Co., Proprietors, Peterboro, N. H.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 4,69 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0.31 grains
Total lead .......... 5,00 grains

11. Mrs. S. A. Allen's World's Hair Restorer, 198 and 200 Greenwich street, New-York, and 266 High Holborn, London, England.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 5,26 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0.31 grains
Total lead .......... 5,57 grains

12. L. Knittel's Indian Hair Tonique. Louis Knittel, 616 Eighth avenue, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 5,16 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 1,13 grains
Total lead .......... 6,29 grains

13. Hall's Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer. R. P. hall & Co., Nashua, N. H.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 6,45 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0.68 grains
Total lead .......... 7,13 grains

14. Dr. Tebbett's Physiological Hair Regenerator. Tebbett Bros., Proprietors, Manchester, N. H.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 6,28 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 0,62 grains
Total lead .......... 7,44 grains

15. Martha Washington's Hair Restorative. Prepared by Simonds & Co., Fitzwilliam, N. H.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 8,01 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 6,79 grains
Total lead .......... 9,80 grains

16. Singer's Hair Restorative. Depot, 643 Broadway, and 79 Nassau street, New-York.
One fluid ounce contains:
Lead in solution .......... 0,15 grains.
Lead in the sedimeat .......... 16,24 grains
Total lead .......... 16,39 grains

Recapitulation.
Only one of this clam of preparations is free front lead, whirls metal seems indeed to be the essential constituent in most cases. Most of the sediments observed in the bottles, and which require that the bottle "be well shaken," etc., consist of sulphur, which it is intended shall ultimately unite with the lead to produce the dark-colored sulphide of lead, or, as one of the manufacturers has it, "the original youthful beauty and color." The following tabular statement shows how the poisonous hair nostrums compare among themselves:

Grains of Lead in one fluid ounce.
1. Clark's Distilled Restorative for the Hair ..........0.11
2. Chevalier's Life for the Hair ..........1.02
3. Circassian Hair Rejuvenator ..........2.71
4. Ayer's Hair Vigot ..........2.29
5. Prof. Wood's Hair Restorative ..........3.08
6. Dr. J. J. O'Brien's Hair Restorer of America .......... 3.28
7. Gray's Celebrated Hair Restorative ..........3.39
8. Phalon's Vitalia .......... 4.69
9. Ring's Vegetable Ambrosia ..........5.00
10. Mrs. 8. A. Alicia World's Hair Restorer ..........5.57
11. L. Knittel's Indian Hair Tonique .......... 6.29
12. Hall's Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer .......... ?.13
13. Dr. Tebbett's Physiologival Hair Regenerator .......... 7.44
14. Martha Washington Hair Restorative. ..........9.80
15. Singer's Hair Restorative .......... 16.93

II. LOTIONS OR WASHES FOR THE COMPLEXION.

1. Burnett's Kalliston. Joseph Burnett & Co., Boston, Mass. Contains no injurious metals.

2. Phalon's Paphian Lotion, or Floral Beautifier. Phalon & Son, 517 Broadway, New-York. Contains no injurious metals.

3. Enamel of America. François Gregoire & Co., corner of Eighth and Locust streets, Philadelphia. A clear, colorless liquid, containing no injurious metals.

4. Email de Paris, de Jared. Jared et Rene, Paris. A pink alcoholic liquid, free from injurious metals.

5. Balm of a Thousand Flowers. A thick yellow emulsion, free from injurious metals.

6. Perry's Moth and Freckle Lotion. Dr. B. C. Perry, 49 Bond street, New-York.
A colorless liquid, with a little white sediment.
One fluid ounce contains:
Mercury in solution .......... 2.67 grains.
Zinc " " .......... 0,99 grains.
Equivalent to
Corrosive Sublimate .......... 3.61 grains.
Sulphate of zinc (crystallised) .......... 4.25
The sediment contains a little mercury, lead, and bismuth.

Recapitulation.
With the exception of Perry's Muth and Freckle Lotion, these lotions are entirely free from lead or other injurious metals.

III. ENAMELS FOR THE SKIS.

1. Balm of White Lilies, for preserving and beautifying the skin. H. A. Medley, New-York.
Water colored pink, and holding in suspension a large amount of carbonate of lime. It does not contain any injurious metals.

2. Dr. Bradford's Enameline for the Complexion.
A colorless liquid, holding 33.02 grains of oxide of zinc in suspension in each fluid ounce. Is free from lead.

3. Hagan's Magnolia Balm. Demas Barnes & Co., New-York.
A colorless liquid, holding in suspension in each fluid ounce 118.61 grains of oxide of zinc. Is free from lead.

3. Laird'e Bloom of Youth, or Liquid Pearl. George W. Laird, 74 Fulton street, New-York.
A colorless liquid, holding in suspension in each fluid ounce 169 grains of oxide of zinc. It is entirely free from lead.

Eugénie's Favorite. Mlles. T. & L. Jouvin, late of Rue St. Anne, Paris.
A colorless solution, holding in suspension in earls fluid ounce 140.52 grains of carbonate of lead, white lead, containing 108.94 grains of metallic lead. There is a trace of lead dissolved in the liquid.

6. Snow-white Enamel br Whitening and Beautifying the Complexion. Phalon & Sons, 517 Broadway, New-York.
A colorless liquid, holding in suspension in each fluid ounce 186.67 grains of carbonate of lead, equivalent to
Metallic lead in sediment .......... 144,72 grains.
Lead in solution .......... 1,56 grains.
Total lead .......... 146,28 grains.

7. Snow-White Oriental Cream, for Whitening and Beautifying the Complexion. Phalon & Sons, 517 Broadway, New-York.
A colorless liquid, holding in suspension in each fluid ounce 246 pains of carbonate of lead; equivalent to
Lead in suspension .......... 190,22 grains.
Lead in solution .......... 0,77 grains.
Total lead .......... 190,90 grains.

Recapitulation.
The enamels consist of white powders suspended in clear liquids; on standing, the powders subside, but agitation quickly incorporatos them with the liquids again. The following contain lead, mostly if not entirely in the form of carbonate; they are therefore simply "white lend" ground in water.

Grains of Lead in one fluid ounce, after shaking.
Euchtle's Favorite .......... 108,94 grains.
Phalon's Snow-white Enamel .......... 146,28 grains.
Phalon's Snow-white Oriental Cream .......... 193,99 grains.

IV. WHITE POWDERS FOR THE SKIN.

1. John Irvine's Compound Chinese Tablet of Alabaster consists of carbonate of lime, free from injurious metuls.

2. Shand's Compound Chinese Tablet of Alabaster consists of carbonate of lime, free from injurious metals.

3. Superior Lily White, X. Bazin, Philadelphia, consists of carbonate of lime and carbonate of magnesoa, free from injurious metals.

4. Cascarilla de Caracol de Persia, R. & C. A. Wright, Philedelphia, consists of carbonate of limem and some earthy matter insoluble in acids, either clay or "French chalk;" is free from injurious metals.

5. The Original Tablet of Alabaster, or Lily Whits Cosmetic, consists of carbonate of lime, with some clay or a French chalk;" is free from injurious metals.

6. Bismuth Powder for Beautifying the Skin and Removing Freckles consists of carboanate of lime, with much clay or "French chalk;" is free from injurious metals.

7. Lavel's Lily White and Rose Bloom consists of clay or "French chalk" is free from injurious metals.

Recapitulation.
The white powders consist of carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, clay, or "French chalk;" either singly or mixed. Nothing injurious was detected in any one of them.

CONCLUSION. - It appears from the foregoing:

1. The Hair Tonics, Washes, and Restoratives contain lead in considerable quantities; that they owe their action to this metal, and that they are consequently highly dangerous to the health of persona using them.

2. With a single exception, Perry's Moth and freckle Lotion, which contains corrosive sublimate, the lotions for the skin are free from lead and other injurious metals.

3. That the enamels are composed of either carbonate of lime, oxide of zinc, or carbonate of lead, suspended in water. The first two classes of enamels are comparatively harmless, as harmless as any other white dirt when plastered over the skin to clpse the pores and prevent its healthy action. On the other hand, the enamels compesed of carbonate of lead are highly dangerous, and their use in very certain to produce disaastrous results to those who patronize them.

4.The white powders for the skin are harmless, except in so far as their application may interfere with the healthy action of the skin.

Respectfully submitted, C. V. Chandler, Ph. D.,
Chemist to the Metropolitan Board of Health.
Am. Supplement Chemical News.

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