Scientific American 42, 30.6.1855
Butternut Brown.
A very good cinnamon brown color is dyed with butternut bark and camwood, and many of our farmers' good-wives are well acquainted with the method, but to those who are not, the following will be useful:
For 24 yards of common homemade woolen cloth, put into a large clean kettle 3 lbs. of camwood, and 3 pecks of butternut bark, and allow them to boil for ten minutes; the cloth is then entered and boiled for one and a half hours. The cloth is then lifted, and two ounces of copperas placed in the kettle, dissolved, and the froth skimmed off; the goods are then re-entered, boiled for half an hour, lifted out, washed and dried. By increasing the quantity of these dye stalls, and using more copperas for saddening, a darker brown will be produced. The butternut bark is used as a substitute for rustic, it makes a fast color, but does not give as rich a hue to the goods.
Hickory Black.
By preparing woolen goods in an alum mordant of 4 ounces to the pound of wool, and washing the goods well afterwards, they can be dyed a beautiful brown by using hickory bark, butternut hark or yellow oak bark, as substitutes for fustic, and pursuing the process above described. Lombardy poplar bark or the leaves of the peach tree, may also be used for the same purpose and in the same way.
From almost every tree in our forests, by the use of an alum mordant or preparation, some camwood, and a little logwood (always saddening as described with copperas) every variety of brown shades may be dyed — The easiest way, however, to dye good browns on woolen goods, is that described in the first receipt of last week's article.
Bronze Color.
For ten pounds of woolen goods, use five pounds of logwood, one of camwood, and half a pound of alum. Boil the goods in the liquor for two hours, then lift them out and wash them well. Into another clean kettle of boiling water, add five pounds of fustic; boil the goods in this for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.
Dark Claret Brown.
For ten pounds of goods, use 8 lbs. of logwood, half a pound of crude tartar, as much of alum, and one gill of the muriate of tin. Boil the goods in this for one hour and a half, then lift and wash them well. Into another clean kettle of boiling water, place one pound of fuetic, and halt a pound of crude tartar; enter the goods, boil for one hour, then lift and wash them, and they are ready for being dried. This color is subject to crock off, hence the last course described — boiling in fustic and tartar, is simply for the purpose of rendering them cleaner — some call it "setting the color."
The muriate (chloride) of tin must never be used with camwood. It may, however, be employed as a preparation or mordant for camwood, like alum, but great care must be exercised to wash the goods before they receive the camwood.
Brown Color on Cotton.
There are various ways of Ilyeing this color on cotton, all of which are different from that pursued for dyeing the same color on silk and woolen goods.
Rich Bark Brown.
The cotton is first dyed a deep yellow with quercitron bark. 3 lbs. to the 10 of goods, then washed, and then steeped in sumac for twelve hours, and afterwards mordanted in the red spirit tub for about two hours, receiving a preparation exactly as if for claret brown. About four pounds of peachwood and two of logwood are then boiled, and in this liquor the goods are handled for half an hour, and raised with some spirits. This is the only correct method of dyeing a rich bark brown on cotton. It is positively necessary that the goods should have the proper depth of yellow on than before they receive the redwood and logwood, and that they should be dyed as quickly as possible in the latter bath. It is exceedingly difficult to bring up bark browns to the proper shade if they fail in yellow. The yellow color leaves the cotton — dissolves off as it were — by long handling in either redwood or logwood liquors, hence the necessity for a certain depth of yellow as a base, and rapid handling in the finishing dye liquors.
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