containing over 6400 receipts embracing thorough information, in plain language, applicable to almost every possible industrial and domestic requirement
William B. Dick
Dick & Fitzgerald, New York 1884.
189. French Process for Dyeing Turkey-Red.
The following process for dyeing turkeyred, is the one in general use in France at present.
The quantities of materials, &c., given, are for dyeing 2200 pounds of cotton, which has already, it is assumed, been subjected to thorough washing and scouring in soap.
Dissolve 20 to 22 pounds carbonate of potassa in about 330 gallons of water, and provide for future use 1300 to 1400 pounds of fat oil; next divide the goods to be dyed into three equal portions.
The first step in the process is oiling the goods; mix together one-third part of the fat oil and of the solution of potassa, stirring by degrees into the oil sufficient solution to produce an emulsion; this makes the white liquor.
One-third of the goods are padded, that is, drawn through evenly backwards and forwards, in this white liquor; then take them out and lay together in a heap in a fresh cool place for 10 or 12 hours, and dry in an atmosphere heated to 140° Fahr.
While the first portion of the goods is drying, prepare a second portion of white liquor, and subject a second portion of the goods to the same operation as the first; the remaining portion of the goods is in turn subjected to the same treatment, using the remainder of the fat oil for a third tub of white liquor; by this means the process proceeds without intermission, each portion being under different stages of treatment simultaneously.
This routine is repeated several times (generally seven or eight) on each portion, each always in its own tub, according to the quantity of oil which it is desired to fix on the goods. If the bath begins to fail, either a little tepid water is added, or a certain quantity of old white liquor proceeding from the washings.
The next stage is to remove superfluous oil; this is done by macerating the goods twice, successively, for 24 hours each time, in a solution of carbonate of potassa at 1° Baumé. The liquid which is wrung or pressed out of them constitutes the old white liquor, which may be employed again for filling up in the oiling operation. The goods are then carefully rinsed.
The third process is galling or mordanting. Bruise 22 pounds gall-nuts, and boil repeatedly until thoroughly drawn; add sufficient water to make up to 66 gallons; dissolve in this 35 pounds alum with the assistance of heat. This is sufficient for working onehalf, that is, 1100 pounds of the cotton, which must be padded in the liquid at a temperature of about 160° Fahr.; it is next suspended for 2 days in a drying-room heated to 112° Fahr., and then passed into a hot concentrated bath of chalk. Care must be taken to work the goods very equally in this bath, in order to avoid streaking. The goods are then washed, and present a fawn-colored appearance.
The fourth step is the first dyeing. This is performed on 10 pieces at a time, the proportions of madder varying according to the breadth and length of the pieces, from 13, 15, 17 to 20 pounds madder for each piece. As in the preceding process, the madder is into two equal portions, one portion being used for the first dyeing, and the other portion reserved for the second dyeing. The one portion is mixed with the requisite quantity of water, from 300 to 400 gallons; the 10 pieces are introduced into this bath at a tepid heat, and kept in it 3 hours, the temperature being gradually increased, until, at the end of 2¾ hours, boiling point is reached; and this heat is sustained for the remaining ¼ hour. The goods must then be washed, thoroughly cleansed, rinsed and dried.
The fifth stage is the second galling; which is prepared in the same gall liquid, and in the same manner as the first galling, finishing with the chalk bath, washing and drying.
The sixth operation is the second dyeing, an exact repetition of the first dyeing, using the remaining half of the madder reserved for this purpose.
The seventh step, first clearing, is performed in a close boiler, twothirds filled with water containing in solution 13 pounds soap, and 3 1/8 pounds carbonate of potassa; the goods are boiled in this for 8 hours.
The eighth process is a second clearing, conducted in the same manner as the first clearing, but dissolving in the water 14½ pounds soap, and 14 ounces chloride of tin instead of the potassa solution.
For only very lively reds a third clearing, similar to the second, is required. The goods, after clearing, are exposed for some time in the air; then worked through a bran bath, which adds to the brightness of the color.
The process here described is slightly modified by some French dyers; thus, experience proves that the oil is better fixed in the stuff when the drying is not performed too rapidly; and there arc some who, when the season does not admit of exposure to the air, heap the pieces together, after oiling, in a drying-room heated to 95° Fahr., turning them over from time to time to prevent injury from overheating. Some use oxblood in the proportion of 40 pounds blood to 100 pounds madder.
190. Violet.
Dye a turkey red (see No. 180), and then pass through the blue vat. (See No. 130.)
Ei kommentteja :
Lähetä kommentti