containing over 6400 receipts embracing thorough information, in plain language, applicable to almost every possible industrial and domestic requirement
William B. Dick
Dick & Fitzgerald, New York 1884.
The art of fixing coloring matters uniformly and permanently in the fibres of wool, silk, linen, cotton, and other substances. Dyeing is a chemical process, and the mode of its performance depends upon the substance operated on. Thus it is found that the process by which wool is dyed black, would only impart a rusty brown to linen. Wool unites with almost all coloring matters with great facility, silk in the next degree, cotton less easily than silk, and linen with even more difficulty. Preparatory to the operation of dyeing, each of these substances undergoes a species of preparation to free the fibres from adhering foreign matter, as dirt, grease, &c, which would prevent the absorption of the aqueous fluid to be afterwards applied, as well as impair the brilliancy of the dye. Wool is cleaned or scoured by means of a weak alkaline lye, soap and water, or putrid urine; the latter being very generally used for this purpose. Silk is cleaned from the natural varnish that covers it, by boiling with white soap and water. Cotton and linen are cleaned with alkaline lyes of more or less density. The substances so prepared are ready to undergo the various operations of dyeing.
Among the various coloring materials employed by dyers, some impart their tints to different substances by simple immersion in their infusions or decoctions, and have hence been called "substantive colors;" but by far the greater number only impart a fugitive dye, unless the fibres of the stuff have been previously filled with some substance which has a strong affinity for the latter on the one hand, and the coloring material on the other. The substances applied with this intention are called "Mordants," and generally exercise the double property of "fixing" and, striking" the color. Thus, if cotton goods be dyed with a decoction of madder, it will only receive a fugitive and dirty red tinge, but if it be first run through a solution of acetate of alumina, dried at a high temperature, washed, and then run through a madder bath, it will come out a permanent and lively red. The principal mordants are the acetates of iron and alumina, sulphate of iron, alum, and some other chemical salts. A perfect knowledge of the effect of mordants on different coloring substances is of paramount importance to the dyer.
After having received the proper mordants, the goods are dried and rinsed, after which they are passed for a shorter or longer time through an infusion, decoction, or solution of the dyeing materials, which constitute the "dye-bath"; they are again dried and rinsed. In many cases, the immersion in the dye-bath is repeated, either with the same materials or with others to vary or modify the color. After the substances have been properly dyed, they are subjected to a thorough rinsing or washing in soft water, until the latter runs off uncolored.
94. Dye Woods, &c.
Decoctions of the different woods are prepared for general use in the dye house as they are required. If the wood be in the chipped state, it must be boiled for an hour, in the proportion of 1 pound of wood to 1 gallon of water, a second boiling is generally given with new water, and the liquor obtained used instead of water with more new wood. This second liquor is not good for dyeing alone, but when instead of water for new wood, ¾ pound of new wood is sufficient. The second liquor may, however, be used as an auxiliary in the dyeing of compound colors, such as browns, drabs and fawns. If the wood be ground the same quantity is taken — namely, 1 pound for each gallon of the decoction required, and is prepared as follows: — on a piece of coarse cloth stretched upon a frame, or laid into a basket, put the ground wood, and place it over a vessel, then pour boiling water over the wood until the liquor that runs through is nearly colorless. Barwood and Camwood are always used in the ground state, the wood being put into the boiler along with the goods; no decoctions of these woods are made. Decoctions of bark and weld are often formed by putting them into a coarse canvas bag, and then suspending it in boiling water.
The coloring principle of archil is highly soluble in hot water, and is useful in combination with other dyeing materials; but used alone, does not impart a permanent color.
95. To prepare Annotto.
Into 2 gallons of water put 1 pound of Annotto, 4 ounces of pearlash, and 2 ounces of soft soap, and apply heat, stirring until the whole is dissolved. When convenient it is best to boil the solution.
96. To prepare Catechu.
To 7 or 8 gallons of water put 1 pound of catechu, and boil till it is all dissolved; then add 2 ounces of sulphate of copper, stir, and it is ready for use. Nitrate of Copper may also be used, taking 1 wine-glassful of the solution made according to the next receipt.
97. To make Nitrate of Copper Solution.
To 1 part by measure nitric acid, and 2 parts water, add metallic copper so long as the acid will dissolve it, then bottle the solution for use.
98. To make Sulphate of Indigo.
Into 5 pounds of the most concentrated sulphuric acid, stir in by degrees 1 pound of the best indigo, finely ground; expose this mixture to a heat of about 1600 Fahr. for 10 or 12 hours, stirring it occasionally; a little rubbed upon a window-pane should assume a purple-blue color.
99. To make Indigo Extract.
This is prepared by proceeding exactly as stated for sulphate of indigo and then diluted with about 4 gallons hot water, and the whole put upon a thick woolen filter, over a large vessel, and hot water poured upon the filter, until it passes through nearly colorless; the blackish matter retained upon the filter is thrown away, and the filtered solution is transferred to a leaden vessel, and evaporated to about 3 gallons, to which is added about 4 pounds chloride of sodium (table salt) and well stirred; the whole is again put upon a wooden filter and allowed to dram. The extract remains as a thin pasty mass upon the filter, and is ready for use.
100. To make Red Liquor.
Into 1 gallon hot water place 2 pounds alum; dissolve, in a separate vessel, 2 pounds acetate of lead in 1 gallon water; in a third vessel dissolve ½ pound crystallized soda; mix all the solutions together and stir well for some time, then allow to stand over night; decant the clear solution which is ready for use.
101. To make Caustic Potash.
To 3 gallons water add 2 pounds either black or pearl ashes, and boil; when seething add newly-slaked lime, until a small quantity taken out does not effervesce when an acid is added to it. To test this, take a tumbler half filled with cold water, put a table-spoonful of the boiling lye into the tumbler, and add a few drops sulphuric acid; if the acid were added to the hot lye, it would spurt up and endanger the operator. When the addition of acid causes no effervescence, the boiling and adding of time is stopped, and the whole allowed to settle; then remove the clear liquid into a vessel having a cover, to prevent it from taking carbonic acid from the air. This serves as a stock for general use. The lime sediment remaining may have some hot water added, which will give a strong lye, and may be used for first boils for yarn or heavy cloth.
102. To make Caustic Soda.
For every gallon water add 1 pound soda ash, or 2 pounds crystallized soda (washing soda); boil and proceed by adding slaked lime, and testing as for potash; boiling for some time is essential in order to ensure perfect causticity.
103. To make Lime-water.
Take some well and newly-burned limestone, and pour water over it as long as the stone seems to absorb it, and allow it to stand; if not breaking down freely, sprinkle a litttle more water over it. A small quantity is best done in a vessel, such as an old cask, so that it can be covered with a board or bag. After being slaked, add about 1 pound of it to every 10 gallons cold water, then stir and allow to settle; the clear liquor is what is used for dyeing. This should be made up just previous to using, as lime-water standing attracts carbonic acid from the air, which tends to weaken the solution.
104. To Make Bleaching Liquor.
Take a quantity of bleaching powder (chloride of lime) and add to it as much water as will make it into a thin cream; take a flat piece of wood, and break all the small pieces by pressing them against the side of the vessel, then ad 2 gallons cold water for every pound of powder; stir well, put a cover upon the vessel, and allow the whole to settle. This will form a sort of stock vat for bleaching operations.
105. To make a Sour.
To every gallon of water add 1 gill of sulphuric acid, stir thoroughly; goods steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, as pieces exposed become dry, which deteriorates the fibre; if left under the liquor the cloth is not hurt by being long in the sour, but on being taken out, every care should be taken to wash out the liquor thoroughly, otherwise the goods will be made tender.
106. To make Cochineal Liquor or Paste.
Put 8 ounces ground cochineal into a flask and add to it 8 fluid ounces ammonia and 8 ounces water; let the whole simmer together for a few hours, when the liquor is ready for use.
107. Acid Preparations of Tin.
The acid preparations of tin used in dyeing are called spirits, with a term prefixed to each denoting their particular application, as red spirits, barwood spirits, &c. The tin employed for making these preparations has to undergo a process called feathering, and is as follows: — the tin is melted in an iron pot, and then poured from some height into a vessel filled with cold water; this granulates or feathers, the tin. (See No. 3319.)
108. Red Spirits
...are made by mixing together in a stoneware vessel, 3 parts by measure hydrochloric acid, 1 part nitric acid and 1 part water, and adding to this feathered tin in small quantities at a time, until about 2 ounces tin to the pound of acid used are dissolved. In this operation the temperature should not be allowed to rise. (&'e No. 4124.)
109. Yellow Spirits
...are prepared in the same way, only substituting sulphuric acid for the nitric acid. This is used for the same purposes as red spirits, with the advantage of the economy of sulphuric over nitric acid.
110. Barwood Spirit
...is prepared by using 5 measures hydrochloric acid, 1 nitric acid and 1 water, dissolving it this 1 ounce feathered tin for every pound of the whole mixture. 11 ounces tin may be used if the red dye is required to be very deep.
111. Plumb Spirit
...is made by using 6 to 7 measures hydrochloric acid to 1 nitric acid and 1 water, dissolving in it 1¼ ounces tin for each pound of the acid mixture. This spirit is named from a preparation made with it and a decoction of logwood. A strong solution of logwood is made and allowed to cool, then to each gallon of the solution there is added from 1 to 1½ pints of the spirit; the whole is well stirred and set aside to settle. This preparation has a beautiful violet color, and silk and cotton are dyed of that shade by dipping them into this plumb liquor without any previous mordant. The depth of tint will depend on the strength of the solution.
112. Plumb Spirit for Woolen Dyeing.
This is prepared by adding tin to nitric acid in which a quantity of chloride of ammonium (sal ammoniac) has been dissolved. Observe, that all these spirit preparations are varied by different operators, some preferring more or less of the two acids, and also of the tin; but the proportions given form good working spirits, and if care be taken in their preparation not to fire them, that is, not to allow the temperature to get so high as to convert the tin into a persalt, the operator will not fail in his processes as far as the quality of the spirit is concerned.
113. Tin Spirits.
The following are among the best recommended preparations of tin spirits, used for dyeing scarlet:
1 pound nitric acid, 1 pound water; dissolve in this 1½ ounces sal ammoniac, and then add, by degrees, 2 ounces pure tin, beaten into ribbons.
Or: dissolve 1 part sal ammoniac in 8 parts nitric acid at 30° Baumé; add, by degrees, 1 part pure tin; and dilute the solution with onefourth its weight of water.
Or: 4 parts hydrochloric acid at 170 Baumé, 1 part nitric acid at 30° Batune; dissolve in this mixture 1 part pure tin.
Or; 8 parts nitric acid, 1 part sal ammoniac or common salt, and 1 part grain tin. This is the common spirit used by dyers.
114. Alum Plumb.
Make a strong decoction of logwood, and then add to it 1 pound alum for every pound of logwood used.
115. To Test the Purity of Alum.
The usual impurity which renders alum unfit for the naps of the dyer, is the Ferrosulphate of potassa, but if iron be present in any other shape it is equally injurious. Common alum frequently contains ammonia, from urine or the crude sulphate of the gas works having been employed in its manufacture. This may be detected by adding a little quicklime or caustic potassa. Pure alum should form a colorless solution with water, and give a white precipitate with pure potassa soluble in an excess of the latter. It should suffer no change on the addition of tincture of galls, prussiate of potash, or sulphureted hydrogen.
116. Nitrate of Iron
...is used in the dye-house for various purposes. Its principal use is for dyeing Prussian Blue, and is obtained as follows: Take 4 parts nitric acid and 1 part water in a glass or stoneware vessel; place it in a warm bath, and add clean iron so long as the acid continues to dissolve it with effervescence; take out any iron. that remains undissolved, and, after settling for 1 hour, the clear solution is ready for use. The fumes given off during the operation should be guarded against, being deleterious to health and injurious to any metal or vegetal with which they come in contact. This solution should be kept in the dark, as it loses some of its strength by exposure to light.
117. Chloride of Iron
...is another salt used in the dye-house for dyeing silks and woolens a deep blue, and is preferred, for that purpose, to copperas. It is prepared for use thus: To 4 parts hydrochloric acid add 2 parts water, and apply a gentle heat; then add iron in pieces, or filings, so long as it continues to be dissolved; then pour off the clear liquid into a basin, and evaporate, when greenish colored crystals of chloride of iron will be obtained. This salt crystallizes with difficulty, deliquesces in the air, and should not be exposed. Instead of evaporating and crystallizing, the solution may be put in a bottle and reserved for use.
118. To make Iron Liquor.
Into large cast-iron boiler, or pot, a quantity of iron turnings, hoops or nails, are introduced, and acetic acid — the crude pyroligneous acid from the distillation of wood — is poured in upon them. The strength of the acid is generally of 5° Baumé, or specific gravity 1.035. A temperature of 150° Fahrenheit is maintained till the solution of protoacetate of iron is obtained. During the solution of the iron much tarry matter separates, which is skimmed off, and the solution frequently agitated, to free it, as much as possible, from the tar. As soon as a strength is gained of a specific gravity of 1.09, at 60° Fahrenheit, the solution is allowed to cool, for a further quantity of impurities to separate. When clean turnings are operated on, the process of solution is completed in 5 to 7 days.
119. To make up a Blue Vat.
Take 1 pound indigo, and grind in water until no grittiness can be felt between the fingers; put this into a deep vessel — casks are generally used — with about 12 gallons water; then add 2 pounds copperas, and 3 pounds newly-slaked lime, and stir for 15 minutes; stir again after 2 hours, and repeat every 2 hours for 5 or 6 times; towards the end, the liquor should be of a greenish yellow color, with blackish veins through it, and a rich froth of indigo on the surface. After standing 8 hours to settle, the vat is fit to use.
120. To make Blue Stone.
Sulphate of copper is known in commerce as Blue stone, Roman vitriol, and Blue vitriol, and may be prepared by exposing pure copper in thin sheets to the joint action of dilute sulphuric acid and air; or by treating freshly precipitated oxide of copper with diluted pure oil of vitriol; or by boiling the metal with oil of vitriol, either in the concentrated state or diluted with an equal bulk of water. These are the simplest ways of obtaining this salt, which may be reduced to a crystalline form by evaporation. The crystals assume a well-defined rhomboidal form of a fine sapphire-blue color.
121. To make Solutions for Dyeing.
In making solutions of copperas, blue stone, chrome, &c., there is no fixed rule to be followed. A quantity of the crystals are put into a vessel, and boiling water poured upon them and stirred until dissolved. Some salts require less water than others when saturated solutions are wanted; but in the dye-house saturation is not essential, and therefore there is always used ample water to dissolve the salt. In all cases, however, the proportions are known, so that the operator, when adding a gallon, or any other quantity of liquor to the dye-bath, knows how much salt that portion contains. From ½ to 1 pound per gallon is a common quantity.
122. To Prepare Cotton Yarn for Dyeing.
Cotton yarn, when spun, is put up in hanks, a certain number of which combined constitute a head; the number of hanks ranging from 6 to 20, according as the fineness of the yarn varies from very coarse to very fine. Sufficient of these heads are tied together, or banded with stout twine into a bundle, to make 10 pounds.
After banding, the cotton is boiled in water for 2 or 3 hours until thoroughly wet. The bundles are then loosed, and each roll of yarn is put on a, wooden pin, about 3 feet long and 1½ inches thick, 4 or 6 pins making a bundle. The yam is now ready for dyeing dark colors; but for light shades, it must be bleached previous to dyeing. The bleaching is performed thus:
123. To Bleach. Cotton Yarn.
A vessel sufficiently large to allow of the yarn being worked in it freely without pressing, is to be two-thirds filled with boiling water; add 1 pint bleaching liquor (see No. 104) to every gallon of water in the vessel, and work the yarn in this for half an hour. Into another vessel of similar size, two-thirds filled with cold water, add one wine-glassful sulphuric acid for every 2 gallons water; stir well, and then, tit the yarn from the bleaching solution into this, and work for 10 minutes; then wash out until all the acid is removed. This Will bleach the yarn for dyeing any light shade.
124. To Prepare Cotton Cloth for Dyeing.
The cloth is taken out of the fold, and hanked up by the hand, taking the end through the hank and tying it loosely, technically termed kinching; it is then steeped over night in old alkaline lye, which loosens and removes the oil, grease and dressing which it has obtained in weaving; it is then thoroughly rinsed in clean water. Where there is a dash-wheel, it should be used for this washing. In consequence of the liquor often fermenting with the paste in the cloth, this process has been technically termed the rot steep.
If the cloth is to be dyed a dark color, no further preparation is needed; but if light, the cloth has to be bleached as follows:
125. To Bleach Cotton Cloth.
After undergoing the rot steep, boil for 3 hours in caustic lye, of the strength of 1 gill of stock lye (see No. 101) to the gallon of water; wash out, and steep for 6 hours in a solution of 1 pint of bleaching liquor (see No. 104) to the gallon of water; wash, and steep 1 hour in a strong sour of 1 wine-glassful sulphuric acid to 1 gallon water; wash well from this before drying or dyeing.
If the cloth be very heavy, it may be necessary to repeat in their proper order the boiling in lye, the steeping bleaching liquor, and in the sour, finishing, as before, with thorough washing or drying.
In bleaching cloth for dyeing, care has to be taken that it is all equally white, otherwise it will show in the color.
The quantity of water used should be sufficient to cover the cloth easily without pressure.
If the goods be old, and have previously been dyed, and if the shade required be a deep shade, and the color of the goods light, in that case nothing is generally required but steeping in alkaline lye to remove any grease or starch; but if the color of the cloth is dark, the best method is to bleach as if they were gray goods.
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