Dictionarium polygraphicum. To dye stuff a brown or tawny.

Dictionarium Polygraphicum:
Or, The Whole Body of Arts Regularly Digested.
Vol II.
London: Printed for C. Hitch and C. Davis in Pater-noster Row, and S. Austen in St. Paul's Church Yard. MDCCXXXV.
1735
To dye stuff a brown or tawny.
Put a handful of madder into a kettle of hot water, stir it very well about, and let it stand and settle a while; moisten the stuff with it, then roll it up, and put it into the kettle upon the roll; and when you find that the colour docs no longer fall upon it, then add to it two handfuls of madder, and let it cool; and when you perceive it to be boiled to a half-red colour, throw in a pail-full of the black dye into the madder suds, stir them together, and make a wood-fire under the kettle: for having its proper heat, it turns the better to brown; and if it be not dark enough, throw in another pail of the black lye, or more, 'till it becomes of the colour you would have it; then work the stuff in it very well upon, or with, the roller, to hinder it from spotting.

Another tawney.
First give the stuffs a blue ground, which must be either light or deep, according as you would have the tawney.
Then alum them, boiling them an hour in the alum water; let them stand 'till they are cold, then rinse them out, and pass them through the madder red dye, and they will turn to a light tawney, as light or as deep as you would have them, according as they are blued; then rinse and cleanse them out.

A deep tawney.
Let the stuffs be first dyed a madder red, then take the dye off the fire, and put a quart of black dye into it for every pound of stuff; heat it, and put the stuffs into it, and work it fo long 'till it hath taken the dye sufficiently; then cool it, and it will be a lasting dye.

Another.
Dye the stuffs red, then boil them in the remainder of the black dye, boiled up (after it hath been used) 'till they are dark enough, then cool them and rinse them.
But if you would have the taviney light, take half of the black dye, and half water, and it will of consequence be so much thinner and weaker.

To dye a crimson tawney with cochineal.
Alum and prepare the silk as for crimson, then fill a clean kettle with fair water, and some blue wood suds, of each a like quantity, and then for every pound of silk put in one ounce of galls, one ounce and half of cochineal; and afterwards, having first rinsed the silks, put them in, stir them about carefully to pre vent their being variegated or spotted; because the Provence wood suds is apt to spot, if it be not violently stirr'd; let the silk lie one whole night in the suds, then rinse it out and dry it.

Another tawney.
First, lay the silk in a strong alum water for twenty-four hours, and for every pound of silk take one pound of good Brasil wood; boil it in a bag for full two hours, then take it out, and let the liquor stand, 'till you can just bear your hand in it, and afterwards put in the silk, and let it continue there an hour, then take it out and dry it; then boil the dye again, put it in again as before, then rinse it very clean; then beat some bole armoniac small, and mix it with beech ashes, to be made into a lye, which strain three or four times through a cloth; make it milkwarm, and then put in the silk; when it is deep enough dyed, rinse it, beat it, and dry it.

A lasting deep tawney.
Let the kettle be very clean, fill it with water, and to every pound of silk, put in one pound of blue wood, one pound of galls; boil them for an hour, then fill it up with gall-water, and while it is hot, put in and stir the silk, let it lie in 'till the next day, then rinse and dry it.

To dye silk a crimson deep tawney.
First prepare the silks (as directed for crimson) put a sufficient quantity of liquor into a clean kettle, and for every pound of silk, put in one pound of madder, one pound of galls, and half a pound of blue wood, and boil them together with the silk for an hour, putting the wood into a bag to prevent its hanging in the silk. Let the silk lie a whole night in the liquor, in the morning take it out, wring it, rinse it, and beat it well, then rinse it again; and afterwards beat and dry it.

A slighter sort of tawney.
This is prepar'd after the same manner with the red, with this difference; for every pound of silk take one pound of Brasil wood, and two ounces of Provence wood, manage the silk as in the red, and dye it.