View of the Russian Empire,
During the Reign of Catharine the Second, and to the Close of the Eighteenth Century.
By William Tooke, F. R. S.
Member of the Imperial Academy of Sciences and the Free Economical Society at St. Petersburg.
In three volumes. Vol. III.
The Third Edition.
Dublin: Printed by P. Wogan, No. 23, Old-Bridge.
1801
1 Lycopodium complanatum. Keltalieko, nykyään Diphasiastrum complanatum
2 Concerning the art of dyeing among the Morduanes, which is nearly the same with that here described, see Lepekhin's journal, tom. i. p. 74.
3 Adonis verna. kevätruusuleinikki, Adonis vernalis?
4 Genista tinctoria.
5 Carduus heterophylla. Huopaohdake, nykyään Cirsium heterophyllumWhere silks, cottons, woollen stuffs and linens are dyed, are: two in Mosco, and one in St. Petersburg. These however are not to be compared with the large dye-houses which here belong to the cloth, cotton, and silk manufactories, and where certainly many goods are dyed as well as any that are done abroad. Besides - domestic dyeing is a very customary business with the Russian housewives in the country, as well as among the wild Siberian nations, to which end they generally use the plants that grow wild in their districts. In most of the countries bordering on the Volga, for instance, where there is a great deal of dyeing, the ordinary process is this: the principal material in these dyes is the moss that grows plentifully in all the marshy pine-forests of Russia1, and is generally known and used under the name of selenitza. This herb is pulverized and made into a strongly acid quas in the usual way with meal, and which serves as an infusion to almost all colours. In this the woollen yarn, which is to be dyed, is put to soak for one night or more; it is then rinsed and dried, by which it receives a yellowish hue, and takes the other colours better and more durably. The common people, who are unacquainted with the properties of alum, practise scarcely any other preparation than this, and in general for all dyes. The Morduanes2, Tichuvasches, and Tartars, instead of this moss employ sometimes the herbs of the yellow spring flowers3, sometimes the common wormwood with a little addition of broom4, but moftly, and with the best success, the leaves, which dye of an agreeable yellow, of a certain thistle5, and with which they dye green the wool that is previously dyed blue with indigo or woad. Some Russians put with the moss-powder a small matter of broom, [drok,] among the quas with which the wool is prepared.
1 Anthemis tinctoria.
2 Serratula; in russ, serpucha.
3Bidens tripartita: russ, tscheryode.
4 In russ, mariona, which is commonly the root of gallium mollugo, or asperula tinctoria
5 Arundo calamogrostris; russ, mietlika.
6 A merchant of Novgorod, named Popof, made several experiments with indigo prepared from an herb growing very frequently about Novgorod, which was thought by appearances to be a species of anil. This indigo was found, after repeated trials, to be in no respect inferior to the American. The death of this person, which happened soon after, was a check to the fabric, from which it never recovered. The experiments were made in the year 1748. Albaum, tom. i. p. 274. - The herb was probably, not anil, but wild woad. - Another woad fabric near Pensa, belonging to the merchant Tavleyef, is mentioned by Dr. Pallas, travels tom i. p. 75; but the dye is said to be indifferent, and not latting.
7 Tagetes.
*1 korpipaatsama, Frangula alnusThe most usual dyeing herbs are: for a bright yellow, the flowers of the yellow camomile1, which in some places is called pupavka; the broom and the dye-thistle2. For dyeing deep yellow, the water-burdock3: for deep red, the wild-madder or krap4. For staining a bright crimson the common duschitza or origanum is taken. Green is best dyed on blue wool with the forementioned yellow-dyeing herbs or birch leaves; but many have the art of dyeing by boiling with an addition of alum from the unblown ears of fedge5, a deep green, and from the berries of the faulbaum*1, kruschina, a yellow-green colour. But for dyeing blue no domestic dye is yet in use, excepting that in Little-Russia they dye blue with the woad that grows wild there6.
Moreover, the people buy woad and indigo, or logwood, and proceed with them in the ordinary method. For dyeing yellow with broom, the powder is put into the very same quas in which the wool has been prepared, in such quantity as to give the compound the consistence of porridge. The wool must first lie a week in the moss alone, then a few days longer in the quas with broom. To beautify the colour the wool is washed repeatedly in lye, after it has been wrung and dried. The dye-thistle is boiled in water alone, or at most with a trifling addition of alum, and the yarn prepared with the quas is dyed in it boiling.
With the flowers of the yellow-camomile, as likewise with almost all the faint-coloured flowers7 that commonly grow in gardens, are dyed both wool and silk; but especially with the latter, it requires some skill to hit exactly the proper addition of alum. The herb of the water-burdock gathered young yields, in water alone, if boiled with a little alum, a beautiful deep yellow, which, by a small addition of wild-madder, becomes more brilliant, and by frequent dyeing is more and more lively. The wild-madder is, like the generality of plants, pounded in wooden mortars or ground to powder in hand-mills, and made into a thick gruel with water, and set to stand the whole night in a warm oven. The following day more water is added to dilute the gruel, and the madder is strongly boiled. Some, for the sake of heightening the colour, previously seeth some young oak-bark or birch-bark in the water, but the Tschuvasches put water among it. Ever after the concoction is red enough for them, they dye their wool three or four times or oftener; at first lukewarm, but the last time boiling, letting it dry after every repetition. If now the colour be fine enough for them, the yarn is washed in the river and dried. By an addition of the water-burdock-herb, dye-thistle, broom or carduus heterophyllus, the colour is brighter and pleasanter. The finest tincture is given by that black-red powder which first separates, on gently pounding, from the root, and is the proper dyeing bark of it.
8 The Kozak-women on the Samara dye red also with the polish cochineal, tsehervetz. They lay the yarn which they intended to dye in a thoroughly four quas, then add alum, and let the vessel with it stand 24 hours in the oven. Then it is wrung out and dried; but the tschervetz is grated in a pan, boiled with water, and when all the dyeing particles are thoroughly extracted, the yarn is put in and boiled once more. With one handful they dye about as much as is necessary for two of the sashes, which they wear, or about a pound of wool. The colour, however, looks no better than that obtained by the common duschitza, or origanum, only that it is more permanent.
9Pallas, travels, tom. i. p. 203. The process, with the duschitza or origanum is somewhat more prolix. The herb is gathered in bloom and chiefly the summits of the flowers, which are all dried in the oven and pulverized. In spring young twigs that have fallen off the wild or uncultivated apple-trees must likewise be collected, and also pulverized. Of both they take equal parts; others will only allow of one part apple-twigs to two parts of the dye-herb. To the fourth part are added some grains, gustscha, stirring all well together with water, and it is set by with some yeast to ferment. As soon as the composition is four, it is pressed out with the hands, and then spread out the whole night in a warm oven, frequently stirring it about. The dry compound is lastly boiled in clean water, and the dye is ready, for which the yarn must be already prepared in the usual manner. Some, not so circumstantial, take equal parts of the herb and the apple-twigs, and boil them both together, with a small addition of alum; but by this method the red obtained is by no means so fine8. The colour afforded by this herb is the finest of all the dyes which the country-people know how to prepare. In general the colours prepared by these several means look well to the eye, and many of them stand washing without being subject to fade9.