5.7.09

Polisi- ja oikeuden-asioita

Porin Kaupungin Sanomia 5, 1.2.1862

Tammikuun 25 päiwänä ilmoitti talonpoika Kaarle Juusela, Hiliwon kylästä Kokemäen pitäjää, että hän päiwää ennen, kello 7 ehtoolla, oli warkauden kautta kadottanut reestänsä wärjäri Stenbergin talon pihalla 1 säkin, jonka pohja ulkoa oli kädenlewyydeltä terwattu, ja jossa oli puolen tynnyriä rukiita, sekä yhden harmaa-sarkasen päälystakin sini-ruutullisella pummuli-kankaisella sisusteella. Samana päiwänä ilmoitti wärjäri Stenberg, että torpanmies Siera, Kauwatsan kappelista Huittisten pitäjää, niinikään oli reestänsä, kadulla, kauppias Widbomin puodin kohdalla, kadottanut matkawakkansa, jossa oli 5 leipää ja muita ruoka-aineita sekä yksi wyhti walkoista neuletta. Merimies Isak Malakias Rosenberg, tästä kaupungista on, luultuna syynalaiseksi näihin kahteen warkauteen, pantu oikeudelta tutkittaa ja tuomittaa. — Wärjäri G. A. Stenberg ilmoitti myös että hän jonakuna päiwänä mennä wuonna oli puodistansa kadottanut 21 kyynärää kerittyä sinistä sarkaa, johon warkauteen syypääksi luultuna hänen oppipoikansa Alexander Johanpoika ja Swen Adaminpoika owat pantu Kämneri-oikeudelta tuomittaa. — Kämneri-oikeus on sakoittannt 1 miehen ensikerran juopuneesta ja 1 toisen kerran juopuneesta sekä yökuluusta.

Horti malabarici: Ameri (Indigofera)

HORTI
MALABARICI
PARS PRIMA,
DE VARII GENERIS
ARBORIBUS
E T
FRUTICIBUS SILIQUOSIS
Latinis, Malabaricis, Arabicis, Brachmanum characteribus nominibusque expressis,
Adjecta Florum, Fructuum, Seminumque nativæ magnitudinis vera delineatione,
colorum viriumque accurata descriptione,
A D O R N A T A
Per Nobilissimum ac Generosissimum D. D.
HENRICUM VAN RHEDE TOT DRAAKESTEIN,
Toparcham in Mydrecht, quondam Malabarici Regni Gubernatorem supremi Consessus apud Indos Belgas Senatorem Extraordinarium, nunc vero Equestris Ordinis nomine Illustribus ac Præpotentibus Provinciæ Ultrajectinæ Proceribus adscriptum,
E T
THEODORUM JANSON. AB ALMELOVEEN, M. D.
Notis adauxit, &Commentarits illusiravit
JOANNES COMMELINUS.

AMSTELÆDAMI.
Sumptibus Viduæ
Amstelodami Sumptibus Joannis van Someren, Hærudum Joannis van Dyck, Henrici et Viduæ Theodori Boom
Anno 1686





Ameri

Amerì ling. Bram. Nély, est arbuscula altitudine unius hominis, ramos maximè transversos emittens , nascensque in arenosis & petrosis.

Radix albicans, lignosa, densis fibris vestita.

Stirps Brachium crassus evadit, estque ligno duro.

Folia in surculis tenuibus, qui è ramis fuis paralleli exeunt ac ad exortum extuberant, & interius striata sunt, bina & bina in duabus seriebus proveniunt, iisque brevissimis pedunculis insident, ac quina , septena, paria cum uno in vertice, suntque parvula, forma oblongo-rotunda, anteriùs & ad petiolum rotunda ora, contextura tenuia &densa, supersicie plana ac lenissima; cum costa media in adversa parte ex qua nullas costas conspicuas emittit, coloris viridi-sub-coerulei , in recta suscioris, in adversa clari, in utraque surdi; saporis subamari & languidi ardoris diutius masticata.

Flores in brevibus surculis , qui ex origine surculorum foliaceorum erumpunt, plures congregatim seu spicatim proveriunt, suntque parvi , sabacei, constantes quatuor foliis, unum folium est unguli-forme , & clausum, ac viride cum stylo quem continet ungulam efficiens : duo folia angusta, tenuia sunt, ac una interiori ora recta ac saturo-rosaceo rubore complectentia ungulam; quartum folium versus quod ungula inflexa est, oblongum & latiusculum, tenue ac viridi-dilutum, exteriora versus reflexum versus summitatem petioli, quem flores circumsident, situm; suntque flores odoris nullius.

In medio emicat Stylus viridis, cavus instar thecæ filamentum tenue, quod è filiquoso germine prodit, recondens, ac superiùs in parva ac tenuia stamuncula sissus, quæ minutis albicantibus apicibus dotata sunt, ac ad concavam partem uno filamento obductus.

Calyx Florum quinque cuspidatorum & viridium foliorum
est.

Gemma Florum oblongo-rotundæ sunt, ac ad unam partem in qua folium latiusculum se aperit, nonnihil planæ.

Floribus deciduis succedunt parvæ ferme unciales, rectæ rotundiolæ & angustæ Siliquæ, suis surculis brevibus, tenuibus pedunculis appendentes, coloris primùm viridis, dein spadiceo-fusci, ac ad petiolum calyce quinque foliorum comprehensi.

Semina oblongo-rotunda sunt cum sua longitudine jacentia in longitudine siliquarum, quæ cum matura, coloris fusci & nitentis sunt.

Hæc arbuscula bis in anno tempore pluvioso & æstivo dat flores.

VIRES EJUS.
AD dolores calculi nephriticos mitigandos servit Radix in decocto data. Eadem & viribus veneni obsistit decocta cum aqua Lanie scilicet teneri Coqui India, & epota. Folia in difficultate mingendi juvant si trita cum aqua ventri applicentur. Amè, vulgo dicta Indigo, quæ ex Foliis paratur, pro exsiccandis tumoribus proficua.

Anil - ex qua Indigo , hic exhiberi, non est quod quis dubitet : quonam autem referenda sit hæc planta, minus inter sese consentiunt autores, c. Bauhinus in Pinace Isatidi sive Glasto subjungit , vocatque Glasto assinem. Alibi autem lib. 9. Sect. 111. capite de Phaseolis Indiacis , siliquam ejus describit , à D° Teremio ex India missam, cum sequenti inscriptione. Siliguula ut semen, huic hartulæ involuta, est herba Anil, nec est species Glasti, sed legumen. Garzias ab Horto Anil Arabibus & Tureis vocari asserit: Guzurattensibus autem, apud quos frequens, Gali & nune plerisque Nil, herbamque esse Ocymo similem. ClarissimusPiso in Brasilia passim luxuriate tradit plantæ: Caachiræ ab incolis dictaæ, binas fpecies, unde Anil : priorique flores purpureos ex albo dilutos, tribuit, odoris fragantissimi. Rochefortius, in Americæ insulis, trium pedum altitudinem vix æquare sit, & florem obtinere albicantem, odoris ingrati, secus ac illam speciem, quam in infula Madagascar provenire scribit, quæ exiguos flores purpúreos ex albo variegatos præbet, jucundi odoris ; eademque procul dubio est cum Pisonis , vocaturque in Historia Madagascarensi Banghets. Ipsam autem plantam ab Autoribus nostris desscriptam, ex Zeilan hoc anno transmisit D. Hermans, addita sequenti inscriptione: Polygala Indica frutescens, ex eujus foliis Anil sive indigo consicitur, verùm Anil Ceylonse vilius est & ignobilius, eo quod ex Malabar, Coromandel, aut Negapatan adsertur. Cingalensibus vocatur
Amarì.

Horti malabarici: Colinil (Polygala)

HORTI
MALABARICI
PARS PRIMA,
DE VARII GENERIS
ARBORIBUS
E T
FRUTICIBUS SILIQUOSIS
Latinis, Malabaricis, Arabicis, Brachmanum characteribus nominibusque expressis,
Adjecta Florum, Fructuum, Seminumque nativæ magnitudinis vera delineatione,
colorum viriumque accurata descriptione,
A D O R N A T A
Per Nobilissimum ac Generosissimum D. D.
HENRICUM VAN RHEDE TOT DRAAKESTEIN,
Toparcham in Mydrecht, quondam Malabarici Regni Gubernatorem supremi Consessus apud Indos Belgas Senatorem Extraordinarium, nunc vero Equestris Ordinis nomine Illustribus ac Præpotentibus Provinciæ Ultrajectinæ Proceribus adscriptum,
E T
THEODORUM JANSON. AB ALMELOVEEN, M. D.
Notis adauxit, &Commentarits illusiravit
JOANNES COMMELINUS.

AMSTELÆDAMI.
Sumptibus Viduæ
Amstelodami Sumptibus Joannis van Someren, Hærudum Joannis van Dyck, Henrici et Viduæ Theodori Boom
Anno 1686





Colinìl ling. Bram. Schéra-Punca est arbuscula humilis, altitudine duum triumve pedum.

Radix fibrosa cortice albicante seu russo, qui saporis est amari & subacris, intus lignosa & albicans, odoris nullius.

Stipes quatuor digitos crassus evadit, ramosque maxime transverfum diffundit, estque ligno duro, cortice sub cinerea crusta viridi, qui saporis est amari & mordacis.

Folia, quæ in surculis angulatis, tenuibus, viridibus, hinc inde parvis petiolis proveniunt , parva, oblongo-rotunda, anteriùs rotunda ora ac maxima latitudine versus superiora ad petiolum in angustum rectis oris contracta, in recta parte viroris communis , in adversa hyali seu viridisubcoerulei , in utraque surdi, saporis subacris & subamari, ac languidi ardoris diutiùs masticata.

Ex costula, quæ in adversa tantum parte eminet, Venæ obliquè & rectà transversim excurrunt ductu parallelo in marginem incurrentes, tradu in recta & adversa parte conspicuo, cùm franguntur, ad tractum venarum angulo ad costam concurrente se dividunt. Foliis sapor amarus &
mordax.

Flores parvi sunt & fabacci, constantes quatuor foliis, unum unguli-forme, clausum ac multum inflexum cum stylo, quem continet, ungulam constituens, estque viridialbicans; duo angustiora una interiori ora recta valde faturo ac rosaceo rubore ungulam ad latus complectentia; quartum, versus quod ungula inflexa & aperta est, latum, primùm folia duo cum úngula circumplectens, dein flore aperto versus exteriora reflexum, situm versus summitatem petioli floriferi.

Sty/us viridis, cavus instar thecæ, filamentum viride, quod e germine siliquoso prodit, complectens, ac superiori parte in parva ac tenuia stamuncula quæ apicibus flavis nodulata sunt, sissus & ad concavam partera uno filamento libero, qui flavo quoque apice nodalatus est, obductus

Floribus deciduis succedunt Siliquæ oblongæ, anguatæ, tenues, planæ &ad unam partem nonnihil inflexæ, duos trefve pollices longæ, glabræ, primùm virides, dein rubrosuscescentes.

Semina seu Fabæ, quæ intus sunt, à se mutuo per ipsam carnem siliquæ sejunctæ, oblongo-rotundæ, planæ, cum sua longitudine jacentes in longitudine siliquarum, cum umbilico ventri siliquarum affixæ, primùm virides, dein nigricantes.

Præter siliquas Fructus nothi virides, tenuiter pilosi ac durioli surculis sæpe insidere conspiciuntur, qui in vertice sunt foramine pertusi & intus cavi.

Bis in anno fert Flores & Fructus tempore pluvioso & æstivo.

VIRES EJUS.
Succus ex ea extractus addito momento mellis servit pro oris pustulis, ore cum eo peruncto. Radix trita & decocta in lacte Coqui India conducit in morbo facro factà perunctione.

Magnam hauc plantam cum præcedente obtinere addinitatem, ex plerisque ejus pattibus liquet ; quare & non incommodè Polygam lndicam minorem, siliquis recurrís, vocari poffe, existimem. An autem etiam Indigo præbeat, quamvis verosimile videtur, afferere non ausim : multo minus eandem esse cum Madagascarensium Beuhets, cum ejus florem odoratissimum testentur, hujus autem inodorus olservetur. Hernandes & Recchius Historiæ Mexiocanae lib. 410, binas quoque plantas descrbunt, quæ coeruleo tungunt colore, quarum utramque vocant Xiuhquilits Pitzabac, seu aun tenuifoliam, ipsum autem pigmentum coeruleum sive Indigo Mohuitli & Tlevohuilli. Neutra autem cum hic descripta planta, quadrat. Prior verò eadem videtur cum Caachiva secunda Pisonis.

John Walker Harrington: Block Magic

Arts & Decoration, helmikuu 1920
Tekstin Coloriastolle lähettänyt Lisa Dunham.
The further development of this industry in America is bound to come, now that responsible textile interests are calling into their service artists of originality, and the demand for the best is quickened by the leading Interior Decorators

THE keynote of the recent exhibition of American Decorative Art at the Amer­ican Museum of Natural History harked back to the culture of primitive peo­ples. It revealed their influence on our own textile art since the outbreak of the late war which caused, designers in this country to seek inspiration from American sources, from the tombs of the Incas and the gay garments of the North American aborigines.

In all this foregathering of the artisans of the weaving world, the appeal to the decora­tive sense was the strongest in the examples of our re-born block printing industry. We have had printing from the wood for the adorning of linens and cottons, as the schools interpret it, for several decades, but here are the very beginnings of a craft which will one day rival that of England and of France. The decorators who are called upon to set the mode for the beauty of American house in­teriors, as well as those who delight in furnish­ing their own homes with hangings which are individual as well as artistic should wel­come this new industry. As the interest in the hand printed fabrics increases, as it is bound to do, there is no reason at all why we should not have in the United States printeries both large and small, devoted to the produc­tion of textiles direct from the mallet.

The well-conceived display at the American Museum was chiefly valuable in giving the settings and the historic backgrounds for nascent arts. It provided the horizons of culture, as Dr. Herbert J. Spinden delights to put it. Especially was this true with regard to the block printing.

Draped over a case, was a huge sheet of tapa or mulberry bark cloth brought from the Fiji Islands and on it was imprinted a rude design. The savages had carved paddles deeply and had slapped on the coloring with them in an unconventional way. The im­prints, however, were in the same general direction, and when the work was done, the curtain which was thus produced had a char­acter and interest which captures our civilized attention.

From this simple paddling it is not a far cry to the more ornate printing done from the teakwood blocks which were lent to this exhi­bition from the collections of Mr. Lockwood deForest. The art was developed early in the Orient and the even-grained teak, so well adapted for carving, is an ideal material for the making of patterns. These blocks are fitted at their backs with huge handles on which the operator can get a strong grip. He can thus print off the close, fine designs in sections of six inches in width. The same color is used, for here the art is revealed in its simplest form.

The East Indians however, as shown in the splendid specimen lent by Mr. M. C. D, Crawford, employed a variety of small block in the printing of large designs, laying on the various colors with a care and patience which amazes the American. Few such fabrics as these are available now, for the Hindoos have been long under the spell of quick production and aniline dyes. To them, as the name chintz indicates, the English owe their own block printing ideas.

Much the same interest and charm as that found in the hand printed fabrics from the land of Buddha appeared in specimens of Persian origin with their manifold scrolls. There were also seen blocks which the Japanese use at times to multiply the designs on their batiks.

After one has duly orientated himself and swept these "horizons of culture,"he is in a good position to sense all the feeling that there is in the block printed textiles which graced this epochal exhibit. One Chicago firm had a varied display of linens and cottons elaborately printed from the wood, and a New York house placed in the very front of its booth a silk, in Peruvian style, which had under­gone the same process. The wooden slabs with which the patterns had been impressed by hand were shown in both instances. They
were modeled on the same lines as the blocks from English sources.

It may be some time before our own block printing will rival that of Great Britain and France, but a good beginning has been made. The development of such an indus­try on this side of the water is bound to come, now that represeii­tative textile interests are calling into their service artists of origin­ality and force, as well as skilled artisans.

There is a personality in the printing of fabrics with the wooden block which makes for their in­dividual charm. The United States is a land of large production and small patience, but the time is com­ing soon when we shall have quality as well as quantity output. Block printing is an ideal industry for the new era. There are many persons of wealth and taste who are willing to pay good prices for fabrics which necessarily must be exclusive in design.

From whence do these hand block prints derive the character which makes them so deservedly desirable? Here again we got back to the aboriginal, for the very irregularity which we see in the figures on the potteries and the textiles of primitive peoples, appears in this modern craft. There is a lure of refreshment and interest everywhere. The skilled workmen who print the wood are in theory doing their very best to have an exact meeting of all parts of the designs which are laid on with the blocks each spread with different hues. The long strips of the cloth are stretched on tables which rest on solid foundations, and the artisans pass along with the slabs laying there on with care and often pounding them smartly when an especial depth of color is desired. Sometimes, however, so fallible and therefore interesting is man, the designs of the different blocks do not precisely register and there is a merging of two shades at the edges of the pattern which adds softness to the outline. Even the slight variations in the tones and shades due to this hand process add the charm of surprise to the final result.

Excellent as are the results which are obtained from the machine printed textiles, the block gives a certain solidity and richness of hue which is difficult to imitate. The pigment seems to sink in deeper and to give a certain quality which is inherent. One is con­scious of an effect which suggest, dark velvety depths and all air of mystery.

The value of the block comes, out the most, however, in the sense of perspective which it imparts. Compare a hand printed fabric, for instance, with a calico or some such cloth, and note how in the first there is all impression of distance, while in the second the design rests flat and snug upon the compacted filaments. In the best patterns from the American blocks, three different planes can be plainly felt and discerned. Here are all the accessories of a real painting—foreground, middle distance and background. The birds and the flowers seem veritably to stand forth from their environment. They live, for there is atmosphere about them, and they bask in the light of the sun. The block can thus give depth of atmosphere to the curtain which hangs in a door­way.

The accumulative hand printing transmits richness to fabrics which defies analysis. Starting, for instance, with a large bouquet de­sign, such as was exhibited at the American Museurn by a noted Western house, the progress of the coloring is like a triumphal pro­cession. First, the gray hound laid on with block one, then the dark blue, after that a third block with plum color details, then a grayed medium-blue; fifth, gold color, and next, dark plum, then the clear rose; a lighter brown follows, and last, a darker and more golden tone of brown. Here is a poem in hues by which the operator with the blocks, whether he wills it or not, is soon inspired by a love of his work and comes under its magic spell.

There is a fabric of grape de­sign, recently shown, printed on a specially woven, fifty-inch cotton. The whole pattern conventional­izes the source of forbidden wine with the graceful leaves and pur­ple fruit. It is twenty-five by nineteen inches and is applied four times in thirty-eight running inches of the cloth. Each of the eighteen colors is printed in eighteen blocks to print one repeat. For every thirty-eight inches of the material, therefore, there must be one hun­dred and forty-four block applica­tions. Before the block can be used it must go to the color pads, so if, like Efficiency Edgar, we count motions, two hundred and seventy-two handlings or block operations are necessary to yard of goods. It is small wonder then that the costs of such material run up as compared with the prices of fabrics which go swiftly through the mills.

One should, however, bear in mind that in these days some ex­quisite work is turned out by the use of the etched copper rollers, and it looks very like the block printed variety. Even a semblance of the irregular charm of the wood can be given by skilful manipula­tion. The process of printing from the cylinders is an elaborate and intricate one, although simple enough in principle. The design is distributed into its various colors and on each burnished surface is engraved that part of it which is dedicated to a special pigment. The printing is not rapid, every effort being used to dry the fabric evenly and to smooth it out prop­erly before it is calendared. The technique of this kind of work has developed marvelously in the last few months and the output of the machine products is increasing. It finds a wide range in hangings and in all forms of decoration.

When the American block printer cores into his own, however, and the efforts, of the art schools to produce a distinctive style along these lines are concen­trated, we may look for a develop­ment of an industry which will give greater charm and variety to the American home. In Colonial days we had a start in this direc­tion, and there is no doubt that, with the return to the ways of peace, there is a bright future for an art which derives its inspiration from ancient sources.

As there is a large demand for block printed fabrics which, may be used for bags and small articles the individual worker may turn out pieces which have a special appeal. Even the amateur who has a knack for handling tools and a good eye for color may make his own wooden blocks and print them. A sloyd knife or a few chisels and a gouge would well equip him. He may never rival the wonderful printings which are to be seen in the large establish­ments, but there is abundant opportunity to exercise his gift. Thus can be gained a keener ap­preciation of the taste and skill which are required for success in a useful and a noble art.

Mustetta liinavaatteita varten.

Kutoma- ja Paperiteollisuus 19/1906.
Artikkelin Coloriastolle lähettänyt Martti Kujansuu.
Mustetta liinavaatteita varten valmistetaan sekoittamalla kuparisulfaattia 20, suolahappoista aniliinia 30, glyseriiniä 5, dekstriiniä 10 ja sadevettä 100. Kuparisulfaatti ja dekstriini jauhetaan hyvästi keskenään ja tähän lisätään suolahappoinen aniliini. Sen jälkeen pannaan seokseen, glyseriiniä ja vettä ja hämmennetään, jolloin saadaan sakea taikina. Käytetyn dekstriinimäärän mukaan saadaan joko paksunlainen väriseos, joka siveltimen avulla voidaan maalata kankaalle, taikka enemmän dekstriiniä käyttämällä vielä sakeampi massa, joka soveltuu shabloonin yhteydessä käytettäväksi. Viimemainittuna tarkoituksena voidaan väraine myöskin valmistaa seuraavasti: 20 g. kuparisulfaattia a 30 g. suolahappoista aniliinia jauhetaan kumpainenkin erikseen hienoksi jauhoksi. Molemmat sekoitetaan sitten huolellisesti ja samalla lisätään 10 g dek(i)striiniä. Lopuksi pannaan vielä 5 g glyseriiniä sekä vettä tarpeen mukaan.

Encyclopédie Méthodique. Botanique I (A-B)

BOTANIQUE,
PAR M. LAMARCK, de l'Institut de France;
CONTINUÉE par J. L. M. POlRET, Professeur d'Histoire naturelle , de plusieurs Sociétés savantes et littéraires.

SUPPLEMENT, TOME I

A Paris
Chez H, AGASSE, Imprimeur-Libraire, rue des Poitevins, n°. 6.
1810

ENCYCLOPÉDIE MÉTHODIQUE,
OU
PAR ORDRE DE MATIERES;
PAR UNE SOCIÉTÉ DE GENS DE LETTRES,
DE SAVANS ET D'ARTISTES;
Précédée d'un Vocabulaire universel, fervant de Table pour tout l'Ouvrage, ornée des Portraits de MM. DIDEROT & D'ALEMBERT, premiers Editeurs de l'Encyclopédie.

Tekstin Coloriastolle lähettänyt Lisa Dunham.

ALCANA. Plusieurs ouvrages de botanique défignent sous ce nom le henné ( lausonia inermis Linn.), nommé aussi alhenna , & par corruption alcanna. Il est encore quelquefois attribué à une espèce de silaria (phyllicea Linn.). Enfin, dans Dalechamp, les racines de l'orcanette (anchusa tinctoria Linn.) , employées dans la teinture, sont nommées alcanna radices. Cette identité de noms est probablement déterminée par le même emploidu henné & de l'orcanette pour teindre les dents & les ongles. (Juss.)

AVARU : nom donné , dans l'île de Ceilan , à l'indigo cultivé , indigofera tinctoria Linn.

BAGASSE. Ce mot eft passé des langues du midi de l'Europe dans nos colonies; il vient de baga, baie, le bacca des Latins. Bagoça eft l'enveloppe des graines des raifins ou des olives, dépouillée de son sue par le pressoir, & formant le marc. On l'a appliqué , dans nos îles, à la canne à sucre qui a passe par le moulin, & , par une plus grande exrension, aux tiges d'indigo resirées de la cuve après la fermentation. La bagasse de canne sert à nourrir les bestiaux quand elle est fraîche , ou à chauffer les fourneaux lorsqu'elle a été féchée au soleil.
La bagasse d'indigo fait un bon engrais lorfqu'on lui a donné le tems de vicillir : on l'entasse à cet esset dans des fosses. Il croît dessus un champignon qui , quoique fort ressemblant à l'agaricus simetarius, est regarde cemme très-délicat à l'llede-France, il paroit que 1: double fermentation de la cuve & de la putréfaction ne détruit pas la faculté germinative des graires d'indigo ; car de la bagasse provenant de plantes avancées & montées en graine , ayant été portée, au bout de cinq ans d'enfouissage , sur les terres, en peu de jours le sol se trouva couvert de jeunes plantes d'indigo, en aussi grand nombre que si on les eût semées exprès. (Dict, des scienc., natur.)

BEZETTA. On trouve sous ce nom, dans la Matière méaicale de Murray, le tournesol (croton tinctorium Linn. ) , dont on retire , dans le Languedoc, une sécule employée dans les teintures.

BIONDELLA. En Toscane on donne ce nom, suivant Dalechamp, à la petite centaurée , parce qu'elle est propre, dit-il, à rendre les cheveux blonds. On a encore désigné sous le même nom le bois gentil ou sain bois (daphne gnidium Linn.), peut - être parce qu'on en tiroit une teinture
jaune.

BOIS JAUNE. Plusieurs arbres employés dans la teinture ou la marqueterie doivent ce nom à la couleur de leur bois; ils sont différens suivant les pays.

BOIS DE SAPAN. On connoîc depuis long-tems un bois de teinture qui croît dans les grandes Indes. Linscot, un des premiers qui en ait parlé, le nomme sapoa. Linné l'a rapporté au genre casalpinia, qui comprend le bois de Brésil. On cultive le bois de sapan à l'lle-de-France ; mais jusqu'à présent on n'en a tiré d'autres services que d'en faire des haies, au rapport de M. du Petit-Thouars; elles sont très-belles, mais peu garnies par le bas.

Coloring Power of Aniline Dyes.

Manufacturer and builder 2, 1871

One of the most striking instances of the great divisibility of matter is shown by the power of the aniline dye when separated into infinitesimal particles. According to Hoffman, one part of fuchsine or aniline red, when dissolved in one million parts of water, will give a deep crimson hue to the entire solution; and a bunde of silk, slightly moistened with acetic acid, on being immersed therein, will be instantly dyed a beautiful red.

If twenty-five million parts of water to one of aniline red be used, the red tinge still remains quite visible, and a light shade will be imparted to silk by it in about fifteen minutes; but if the amount of water be increased to one hundred million parts, the solution will be apparently colorless.

A slight trace of color may, however, be detected by looking through thick portions of the liquid, partly by transmitted and partly by reflected light; and a white silk thread immersed therein will become distinctly but unevenly colored within twenty-four hours.

The fact of the tints on the thread being in some places of a darker shade than the liquid itself, seems to prove that under the placid exterior of the solution currents exist, which carry the molecules of color to the thread, and distribute them unevenly on its surface.

4.7.09

Kuusisataa Talouden hoitannossa käytettäwä, kunnollista sekä koeteltua keinoa kaikille säädyille

Kuusisataa Talouden hoitannossa käytettäwä, kunnollista sekä koeteltua keinoa kaikille säädyille, eli Todellinen mukawuuden, menestyksen, terweyden, työn ja kulunkien säästämisen Neuwonantaja.

Koonnut J. H. L. Mahn.

Suomennos.

Turussa,
G. W. Wilénin ja Kumpp. kirjapainossa 1877.

Ohjeiden kopiot Coloriastolle lähettänyt Martti Kujansuu.


[Kappaleita kirjasta]


Suomentajan alkulause.

"Soisin Suomeni hywäksi,
Maani marjan kaswawaksi"

Yleisesti walitetaan maamme köyhyyttä, rahan ja warojen puutosta ynnä muuta kurjuutta; mutta siihen on useastikin syynä, joko huono talouden hoitanto, ruokottomuus ja tuhlaus, tai puuttuwa tieto mihen ja mintawoin ihmisen sopii ja tulee hyödyksensä käyttää kaikkia maan ja luonnon antimia. Näissä asioissa neuwoja sekä osotuksia antamaan, tarjouu suomalaiselle maanmiehelle tämä kirja, joka on parhaimpia mitä tämänlaatusia wierailla kielillä on olemassa. Suomenkieleksi tähän päiwään asti ei näin awaraa tämän tapaista kirjaa ole ollut saatawana. Ne keinot, joita tässä esitellään, owat kaikki koeteltuja; mutta jos joku ei näihin luottaisi, niin sopiihan ensin wähässä ja pieneen asiaan käyttää jotakuta tässä annettua neuwoa, niin on koetus näyttäwä sen hyödyn ja sitte woi epäiliäkin niitä laweammin käyttää, koskekoon sitte asiaa mitä hywänsä. Muutamassa tapauksessa tarpeellisen, kaupunkista otettawat aineet eiwät suinkaan tule kalliiksi sen hyödyn suhteen, mikä niitten tarkoituksen-peräisestä käyttämisestä on. Niitten hinnan maksamista ei siis sowi aristella.

Niissä paikoin, missä neuwotaan ottamaan 2 osaa, esm. terwaa, 1 osa waksia ja 4 osaa ihraa, on tarkotus se, että sen aineen suhteen mitä wähimmin tarwitaan, otetaan niin monta saman wertaa toisia aineita kun niitten edellä olewat numerot osottawat. Jos siis esm. johonkuhun tarpeesen neuwotaan ottamaan ja otat 1 osan waksia ja osamäärä sillä erällä on 1 naula, niin myös otat 2 naulaa (ei 2 luotia tai 2 leiwiskää) terwaa ja 4 naulaa ihraa. - Ne sanat jotka sulki-merkkien eli koukkujen sisällä tawataan, owat edellisen sanan selityksiä taikka niitten toisinto tai wieraskielisiä-nimiä, jotka Suomentaja selweyden wuoksi on siihen pannut.

Että waratoisempikin tämän kirjan suuttaisi lunastaa, myy kustantaja sen, kokonsa ja työ-waiwan suhteen, aiwan halwalla hinnalla. Tuottakoon se Suomen maanmiehille paljo hyötyä.

K:ta ei tässä teoksessa ole g:ksi pehmitetty, koska se waan nenä-äänen (nasaljud) tapaisena kuuluu g:ltä, mutta tämä wiimeiksi sanottu ei suinkaan ole suomalaisen äänen merkki, mikä siitäkin huomataan, että waikka miten sitä tyrkyttäisi suomalaiselle, ääntää hän sen aina "keeksi." Se onkin jo, werraten entisiin aikoihin, suurimmaksi osaksi wieroitettu kielestämme. Miksikä nyt jo ei kokonansa? Monet ruotsalaiset kirjailiat owat jo peräti hyljänneet q-kirjaimen. Minä tein suomenkielessä g-kirjaimelle samoin.

Tämä suomennos tehtiin w. 1864.

[7]

16. Mitä on waariinotettawa seiniä terwalla ja hiilillä maalattaessa.
Hiilet, jotka terwaan sekotetaan, pitää olla hywin poltetut
[8]
sekä hienoksi surwotut. Seinä pitää siwutessa olla hywin kuiwa ja ilma olkoon lämmin ja kuiwa, että wesi ja terwan-hape ehtii kuiwua, ja että jälillä jäänneestä öljystä ja hiilen pulusta joutuisi tulemaan kowa karsi ennen kun ehtii ruweta satamaan. Kesäkuu on tähän työhön sopiwin. Jos tätä tehdään kylmällä ja kostealla wuoden ajalla, sulawat terwan öljymäiset aineet ja sade kuluttaa koko maalin wähittäin pilaan.

17. Warma keino puisten huonetten kääwettymistä wastaan.
Warma ja samassa halppa keino puisten huonetten kääwettymistä wastaan on se, että hirret, parrut ja trossi-laatia siwutetaan wihtrilli-öljyllä, jota pannaan yksi naula kolmeen naulaan wettä. Sekotus tehtäköön puu-astiaan niin tawoin, että wihtrilli-öljy wähittäin kaadetaan weteen. Tällä liemellä siwutaan hirret ja parrut, joitten annettakoon hywin kuiwua ennenkun ne rakennukseen pannaan. Samoin tehtäköön trossipermannon lautojen kanssa, ja jos oikein wakuutettu kääwettymisestä tahdotaan olla, siwuttakoon myöski permanto-plankkujen alapuoli.
Sutimiseksi käytetään tawallinen jouhi-suti, joka jouhilla sidotaan melkosen pitkän kepin nenään, mutta sitä ei saa siihen sitoa lankalla tai nuoralla. Se ei haita että edellä sekotettuun wihtrilli-öljyyn pannaan wähä kimryökkiä; siitä on se etu, että heti kohta näkee owatko kaikki paikat tasaisesti ja hywin siwutut.
Se, joka rakennuksessansa ei ole tätä huolta pitänyt ja sitte huomaa sen kääwittywän, hakekoon heti kohta pilaantuneen paikan ja teräwällä harjalla rewittäköön känsät pois, jonka tehtyä sama paikka woidellaan wastasanotulla weteen sekotetulla wihtrilliöljyllä.
Woiteeksi sopii myöski rauta-wihtrilli, jonka sekaan on pantu neljä sen wertaa wettä, mutta sillä on tarwis siwua kumminkin 4 kertaa ja jätettäköön kuiwumaan joka erän wälillä.

[10]

19. Mitenkä kiween hakattu kirjotus täytetään musta-wärillä.
Kolme osaa pikeä sulatetaan ja sulamisen aikana sekotetaan siihen wähittäin yksi osa hienoa kimryökkiä. Tällä sekotuksella waletaan kirjaimet. Se pysyy niissä yhtäkauwan kun itse kiwikin, jos ei waan wäkiwaltaa tehdä.

20. Kaunis sekä halpa sininen tai keltanen huone-maali.
Wihtrilliä (kupar-ryökiä; jernwiktriol) sulatetaan kuumassa wedessä. Joka wesi-kannua kohtaan otetaan 1 naula wihtrilliä. Tästä syntynyt lipiä säilytetään astiassa. Myöhemmin sammutetaan hywää walkosta kalkkia sen werta kun luullaan tarwittawan, siksi että se tulee sakeaksi kun welli, ja äsken sanottu liemi kaadetaan sen sekaan. Jos yhtä naulaa sammuttamatonta kalkkia kohtaan otetaan 4 naulaa wihtrilliä, niin wäri tulee tumman-wehreäksi, mutta sittekun sillä on maalattu ja se kuiwuu, muuttuu se kauniin keltaseksi. Mitä runsaammin wihtrilli-lipiää pannaan, sitä tummeemmaksi tulee wäri ja päinwastoin. Se ei heltiä seinästä, siitä ei lähde ja se on kauneempi kuin kelta-okkerista (gulocker) tehty. Yksi naula wihtrilliä on antawampi kun 2 naulaa kelta-okkeria ja siis sen maali paljoa halwempi.
Jos wehreän siaan otetaan sinistä, eli n. s. Kyyprin wihtrilliä (cyprisk viktriol), niin wäri tulee siniseksi.

[14]

27. Hywin kestäwä, kaunis ja halpa maali puuhuoneita ja puukaluja warten.
Otettakoon 6 osaa kalkkia, 1 osa hienoja puuhiilen puluja, sekä sen werta hapanta maitoa (piimää), että liemi tulee sopiwan sakeaksi. Tällä maalattu puu tulee waalean-harmaaksi, kestää kauan ilmaa wastaan sekä estää puun mätänemästä. Jos väri tahditaan tummeemmaksi, pantakoon hiiliä runsaammin.

[24]

47. Amerikalainen huone-maali.
Pohjois-Amerikan etelä waltioissa käytetään seuraawaa maalia, jonka tawallista paremmin sanotaan kestäwän ilmaa wastaan. Jos tämä todellisesti niin tekee, on wähä epäluuloista, sillä kysymyksen alaisten aineitten luulisi pikemminkin asiaa pahentavan kun parantawan. Paras on siis, että ensin wähässä sitä koetellaan, ennenkun sitä summa-kaupalla käytetään.
Sen werta sammuttamatonta kalkkia kun tarwitaan 3 kannuun kalkki-wellin walmistamiseksi, sammutetaan, ynnä sekotetaan 2 1/3 naulan tärkki-sokurin (pudersocker), 39 naulan ruoka-suolan ja tarpeellisen wesi-joukon kanssa. Tämä liemi käy pian wallan kowaksi ynnä saatetaan pienennettyin luuhiilten (benswärta), tai kimryökin kanssa wärjätä mustaksi ja ruskeaksi tai keltaseksi okkra-(ockra)wärillä.

[173]

387. Heltiämätön kirjoitus-muste.
5 luotia parasta potaskaa sulatetaan kiehuwassa wedessä, siihen lisätään 2½ luotia wanhaa pieneksi leikattua nahkaa ja 1¼ luoti tulikukkaa, tätä sakkaa keitetään takki-rautasessa astiassa wallan kuiwaksi, sitä sitte kuumotetaan aina kowemmin siksi että se tuolee pehmoseksi, jossa on warottawa ettei se saa tulta ottaa. Wähittäin pannaan nyt sen werta wettä lisään, että siitä tulee wetelä läkki; aine siilataan liinasen riewun läwitse ja säilytetään hywin suljetuissa pulloissa.

Toinen:
Puhdasta suola-hapetta sekotetaan sen werran weden kanssa, että se on tasaan 2 astetta wäkewää Réaumur'in mittarin mukaan. Nyt hierretään hywä joukko kiinalaista tussia (tusch) jossakussa maljassa hywin hienoksi ja wähittäin lisätään siihen 200 osaa tuota sekotettua hapetta.
Tämä jälkimäinen walmistustapa on helpoin ja sen on ranskan tiede-akatemiankin omistanut olewan parhaimman.

[176]

397. Hopeainen kirjoitus muste.
Otettakoon 2 luotia eläwää hopeaa, jonka päälle kaadetaan wäkewää wiini-etikkaa ja wähä sammuttamatonta kalkkia pannaan joukkoon. Pullo, jossa nämät aineet owat, pannaan lämpymään santaan siksi että kaikki on hywin sulanut. Näin tawoin saadaan hopean muotoista läkkiä. Jos läkki tahditaan kullan muotoiseksi, pantakoon wähä safframia joukkoon niin se kohta on walmis.

[180]

407. Kulta-kirjotus.
Jauhoksi tehtyä ammoniakki-pihkaa sulatetaan wedessä, johon ennen on pantu wähä arabian-pihkaa ja kynsilaukan nestettä. Tämä liemi tulee maiton näköiseksi ja sitä sanotaan rohtolassa ammoniakki-maitoksi.
Tällä liemellä maalataan tai kirjoitetaan paperille kuwa tai kirjotusta ja sen annetaan sitten kuiwua, jonka tehtyä sen päälle henkitetään siksi että se tulee hikiseksi; näitten kuwain tai tämän kirjotuksen päälle painetaan puuwilla mytyllä lehti-kultaa. Pian kuiwuu paperi ja liiallinen kulta hiwutetaan penselillä pois, niin kirjotetut sanat jääwät kullattuina paperille.

[182]

412. Miten nimiä poltetaan awaimiin, weitsen teriin ja muihin sileihin rauta-teoksiin.
Merkittäwä kalu maalataan ensin jollakulla öljywärillä ja sen kuiwattua piirrustetaan siihen teräwällä puikolla. Sitte pannaan kalu lasittuun kiwi eli sawi-astiaan, jossa on wettä ja wähä sinistä wihtrilliä ja peitettynä annetaan sen rahdun aika kiehua. Liemen jähdyttyä otetaan kalut ylös ja puhdistetaan, nii nkirjotus waskiwärisenä jää paikallensa.

[---]

414. Miten näkymätöntä kirjoitus mustetta tehdään.

Jos wihtrilli-öljyä sekotetaan kolmen sen werran kanssa wettä minkä se painaa ja sillä kirjotetaan, niin tulee näkymätön kirjotus, joka käy mustaksi jahka paperi lämmitetään.

[187]

425. Miten koetellaan onko wesi wärjäämiseksi ja waalistamiseksi sopiwaa.
Wedessä ei saa olla paljo kalkki-ainetta ja rautaa ei ensinkään. Jos wereen tiukutetaan ilmassa sulannutta wiinikiwen-suolaa (saltartari) tai lyijy sokurin lientä, niin kalkki laskeuu pohjaan, josta nähdään paljoko sitä wedessä on. Jos wesi on raudasta wapaa niin rahdun werta pienennettyä konsjonelliä (cochenille) pantu lasilliseen wettä, tekee sen weripunaiseksi ja jauhot pohjasta eiwät tule mustiksi. Jos taas wedessä on rautaa, niin se muuttuu sinisen näköseksi ja jauho pohjassa mustaksi. Jos wähä kalleppeli (galläppel) jauhoja weteen sekotetaan, muuttuu siinä olewa rauta wallan punaiseksi.

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440. Katoawa kirjotus-muste.
Kalleppelistä, rauta wihtrillistä ja Arapian pihkasta keitetään tawallista läkkiä ja 10 luotia sitä kohtaan otetaan 3/8 osaa luotia salmiakkia ynnä weitsen nirkollinen ketun-leiwän suolaa (harsyresalt). Mitä tällä läkillä kirjotetaan, ei enää 4 tai 6 päiwän kuluttua ole näkywä.

Taikka:
Keitettäköön 1 luoti kalleppeliä 1 luotin kanssa wäkewää syöwettä ja 10 luotin kanssa kaljaa neljännes tunti ja sitte lisätään ½ luotia kuparryökiä, ¼ osa luotia salmiakkia ja ¼ osa luotia Arapian pihkaa. Jahka nämä wiimeiksi sanotut aineet owat ensin sanotun siilatun liemen kanssa se'onneet, on läkki walmis, jolla kirjotettu kirjotus 24 perästä on näkymätön.


441. Kirjotus-muste, jolla tehtyin kirjaimien ympärillä on hopean näköinen syrjä.
Tawalliseen läkkiin sekotetaan wähä sulatettua helwetin kiweä ja sitä käytetään jahka oikein koreata tahdotaan kirjottaa. Kirjaimet tulewat siitä omituisen koreaksi.

[196]

451. Miten luu ennen wärjäämistä walmistetaan.
Ennen wärjäämistä on luun pehmottamisnen liemessä joka on tehty paljon sekotetusta (wedellä) wihtrilli-öljystä ja wähä alunasta, sekä wuorokauden kuluttua peseminen puhtaassa wedessä. Jos luu tarwitsisi wielä enemmän pehmotusta leikkaamista ja wääntelemistä warten, niin liotettakoon niitä 24 tunnia liemessä johon otetaan 1½ korttelia wettä, 2 luotia suola-hapetta (saltsyra) ja 1 luoti alunaa.

452. Miten luu keltaseksi wärjätään.
Ainetta keitetään 1½ kannussa wettä, jossa on sulatettu 1 naula alunaa; sitte pannaan wäri-liemeen, jota warten tarwitaan ½ naulaa wäri-nunnun (Anthemis tinctoria) kukkasia, ¼ osa naulaa puhdistettua potaskaa ja 2 tai 3 tuopia wettä sen suhteen kuten wäri tahdotaan tummemmaksi tai waaleemmaksi.

453. Miten luu siniseksi wärjätään.
Kypseitä selja-marjoja (fläderbär) ja wähä alunaa keitetään wäkewässä wiini-etikassa. Selja-marjain puutteessa pienennetään 1 osa indigo-wäriä morttelissa ja sen päälle kaadetaan 8 osaa wihtrilli-öljyä ja jätetään yhdeksi yöksi seisomaan. Seuraawana aamuna lisätään sen werta wettä että joka neljättä osaa luotia indigoa kohtaan tulee 6 luotia wettä. Tässä maakoot luut siksi että owat siniset.

454. Miten luu wehreäksi wärjätään.
Lämpymän awulla sulatetaan 3 osaa panskröönää (spanskgröna) ja 1 osa salmiakkia wiini-etikassa. - Taikka: otettakoon 1 osa panskröönää ja 6 osaa wäkewää wiini-etikkaa, jotka ynnä wärjättäwät luut kaadetaan kupari-kattilaan joka kitillä laastaroitaan kiini ja kaiwetaan hewosen sontaan, jossa saakoot olla 14 wuorokautta, joitten kuluttua luut owat kauniin wehreät.

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455. Miten luu mustaksi wärjätään.
1 naula kampessi-puuta (kampeschträd) keitetään 6 korttelissa wettä siksi että waan puoli on jälillä; sitte siilataan liemi karwa-liinan läwitse. Wärjättäwät luut pannan nyt ensin salpietari-hapotettuun kuparin liemeen ja keitetään sitte ennen tehdyssä wärissä siksi että owat niin mustat kun ne olewan tahdotaan.

456. Miten luu punaseksi wärjätään.
Ensin keitetään luut wäkewässä aluna-wedessä ja sitte kalkki-wedessä, jonka joka kannua kohtaan on sekotettu 3/4 osaa naulaa priksiljaa (bresilja). Jos luut tahdotaan purppurapunasiksi, niin keitettäkööt wieläkin kerta aluna-wedessä. - Taikka: punaseksi wärjättäwät luut keitetään wähä wäärnpokalla (fernbock) ja alunalla sekotetussa etikassa. Tämä wäri on enemmän purppuran muotosta.

457. Miten sarwi kilpikuoren (sköldpadd) muotoseksi wärjätään.
Pohja-wäriksi otettakoon joko keltasta tai punasta wäriä, mutta sarwen pitää sitä ennen olla walmistettu jo ennen sanotulla tawalla. Sitte tehdään polttawan-kalin (kaustik-kali) lientä, jolla ne paikat merkitään joitten pitää tulla tummanruskeaksi. - Taikka: 2 osaa jauhottua sammuttamatonta kalkkia sekotetaan 1 osan kanssa hopea-klittiä ja wettä lisäämällä tehdään niistä paksu taikina jolla sarwn ne kohdat woidellaan, joita tummaksi tahdotaan ja päälle jäänyt wäri pyhitään pois sittekun se on kuiwunut, jonka tehtyä tarkotus on woitettu.

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459. Miten waaleentuneen kullan wäriä parannetaan.
½ luotia panskröönää sulatetaan keittämällä 2 jumprussa wiini-etikkaa; keittämistä kestäköön siksi että aine painaa waan 2 luotia. Tällä liemellä woidellaan kulta; se kuumotetaan sitte ja jähdytetään wiinissä.

460. Jauho, jolla hopea kullataan.
Kultaa sulatettakoon kuninkaan wedessä (kungswatten) ja samaan weteen pannaan paperin- tai liinariewun-kappaleita, jotka kuiwattua poltetaan kiwisessä astiassa. Tästä saaduilla jauhoilla, joissa kulta on hywin hienona sulanut, kullataan hopea, joka ennen olkoon hywin puhdistettu ja kulta jauhot hierotaan (hopeaan) märällä korkilla.

461. Jauho, jolla muita metallia hopeoitaan.
Hopeaa sulatetaan salpietari-hapeessa ja se laskeutetaan pohjaan kuparilla niin tawoin että kuparilankaa ripustetaan liemeen. Tätä pohjaan laskenetta hopeaa otetaan 1/12 osa luotia (20 gram) ynnä ½ luotia puhdistettua wiini-kiweä, 1/8 osa luotia salmiakkia ja ½ luotia ruoka suolaa. Nämä sekotetaan hywin ja hierotaan ennen puhdistettuun metalliin korkilla tai hienolla nahka-tilkalla, josta metalli kohta tulee hopeoituksi.

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511. Neuwo wärjäreilläe, koskewa konsjonelli-wäriä.
Turha luulo se on että luullaan hopea-pilkkusen konsjonellin olewan mustaa paremman. Se on siinä asiassa huonompikin että se on mustaa raskaampi ja siis kalleempi ostaa.
Musta konsjonelli (cochenille noire) on wallan yhtä hywä kun hopea-kiiltonenkin (cochenille grise ou jaspée). Jos kemiallisesti wiimeiksi sanotusta erotetaan sen kiilto-aine, niin nähdään että koko koristus tulee talkista (Talcum venetum eli talc de Venece), ja se on sellainen konsti ettei sitä rahalla tarwitse maksaa.

[224]

518. Miten kiinalaiset hywää tussimustetta tekewät.
6 waa'an osaa parasta liimaa (kalan-liimaa) sulatetaan 12 waa'an osassa kiehuwassa wedessä; erittäin sulatetaan 1 waa'an osa puhdistettua ja hienoa lakritsia 2 waa'an osassa wedessä; nämät kummatkin liemet sekotetaan ja lienten wielä lämpymiä ollessa (niitten jo yhdistettyä) sekotetaan joukkoon 1 waa'an osa hienompaa ja mustempaa mustaa mitä toimeen saadaan esm. lampun nokea, tai ainetta paljo walmistettaessa suljetuissa astioissa poltettua rauta-okkeria. Kaikkein sekotettua annetaan märkyyden höyryä pois lämpymässä, joka ei saa olla kiehuwan weden mukainen, siksi että aine on tullut taikinan paksuiseksi ja sitte se painetaan öljytystä kipsistä tai rikistä (tulikiwestä) tehtyihin walimiin.

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521. Wastus-(reaktions-)paperi.
jota useasti tarwitaan, walmistetaan niin että lakka-sakkaa (lackmus) sulatetaan kuumassa sade-wedessä ja siihen sekotetaan wähä puhtaaksi pestyä tärkkiä, jonka tehtyä hienoa kirja-paperia kastetaan siihen ja ennen kuiwumista pidetään talrikin yli, johon juuri ennen kaadettiin jotain hiili-happosta juomaa esm. olutta tai porteria. Kunnes sen sininen wäri tuli hoseli-harmaaksi, otetaan se äkisti pois, kuiwataan kalpeessa mutta ei aiwan kylmässä huoneessa, leikataan sitte soukkiin rempeihin, jotka säilytetään eri kotelossa, esm. tyhjässä nenälasi kotelossa. Jahka tällainen remme kastetaan märkyyteen, jossa on hapetta, muuttuu sen wäri punaseksi; jos taas nesteessä on kaswi-suolaa (alkali) tai senlaatusta maa-laia, käy paperi siniseksi.

522. Miten maali-wäriä mukawasti säilytetään.
Jauhettu ja walmistettu wäri pannaan rakkoihin näin tawoin: Suuta ei sidota kiini ennenkun pieni pulkka on pistetty sisään ja wasta sen yli pannaan side, mutta niin että tulpan pää ulottuu siteen toiselle puolelle. Tästä tulee, kunnes rakko on kuiwunut, kaulan kaltainen, josta pulkan uloswedettyä maali kiristetään ulos. Tämä tapa on puhdas ja rakko kelpaa useamman kerran. Pulkan werosta kelpaa paksu hanhen kynä, jonka awoin pää on ajettu sisälle ja toinen leikattu poikki siitä missä höyhenet alkaa. Täten sopii wäriä matkallakin kuljettaa. Wäriä tarwittaessa leikataan kynästä rahdun werta ja läpi suljetaan taas puu-pulkalla tai korkilla.

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542. Wehreä wäri kahwi-pawuista.
Wäri tulee kauniin whreäksi eikä muutu walosta, märkyydestä eikä heikoista hapeista. Sitä tehdään niin että raakoja kahwi-papuja (olkoot meri-weden wahinkoittamia tai ei), keitetään sade-wedessä ja kunnes paksu ruta on erinnään siiwilöitty, pannaan wetelän liemen joukkoon wähittäin carbonas natricum-nimistä, atteikista saatawaa ainetta niin kauan kun se jotain erottaa (fäller). Eriännyt laskeukoon ja saakoon sitte kuiwua wilppaassa tomuttomassa huoneessa puhtaalla pöydällä tai muulla, joll'aikaa sitä joku kerta keritellään niin että kaikki jauhot tulewat ilman käsiin, joka suuresti lisää wärin kiiltoa ja woimaa.

543. Wanhain egyptiläisten taiwaansininen wäri.
Tätä melkein ikuisesti kestäwää sini-wäriä tehdään hiilihapotetusta natron'ista (kolsyradt natron - piistä, kimröökistä; flinta), ja kuparista, näin:
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15 waa'an osaa hiilihapotettua natronia (carbonas natricum) hierretään tarkoin yhteen 20 waa'an osan kanssa jauhettua pii-kiweä ynnä 3 waa'an osan kanssa hienoja kuparisia hiwuttimen lastuja; näitä kuumotetaan wäkewästi 2 tunnia, joitten kuluttua ne taas jauhotaan ja sitte owat jauhot samoin tumman siniset kun Egyptin sinikin oli.

544. Uusi karmini-punanen wäri, tawallista paljo halwempaa.
Sitä saadaan salvia colorans-nimisen kukan kukkaslehdistä kun niitä poslinisessa morttelissa weden kanssa rikki hierotaan ja neste kiristetään useamman hieromisen perästä niinkauan kun niistä wäriä heltiää. Lasisessa astiassa sekotetaan tätä näin wärjääntynyttä wettä pisaroittain kloori-sekasen tinan (chlorbundet tenn) kanssa. Tätä (sekottamista) tehdään siksi että aine käy rutaseksi ja jätetään sitte seisomaan, niin astian pohjalle jää jauhoja. Ne erotetaan, pestään sade-wedellä ja kuiwataan; sitte se on kaunis karmini-punanen. WIine (alkohol) sulattaa sen; siis se sopii wärnissain puna-wäriksi.

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557. Miten indigo-wäristä öljymaalia tehdään.
Tähän kelpaa indigo-kyypi (indigokyp), jota saat jokaiselta kunnolliselta wärjäriltä. Aine pannaan mataloille talrikeille wapaan ilmaan tomuttomaan paikkaan. Pian laskeuu pohjaan jauho, joka siiwilöitään nesteestä ja puhdistetaan sekotetussa suola-hapeessa ja wiinin ytimessä (sprit) siksi ettei nämät aineet siitä enää muotoansa muuta. Sitte huuhdellaan (wirutetaan) jauhot lipeä-wedellä hapeesta puhtaaksi. Näin puhdistetut siniset jauhot owat ultramarin-nimisen maalin muotosia, sekoowat helposti öljyn kanssa eiwätkä muutu ilmasta eikä päiwästä.
Berlinin- ja Parisin-sini taas tulewat öljy-wärinä aikain kululla wehreän muotoisiksi ja kobolti-sini on waan päiwän walossa sininen, mutta tulen walolla näyttää se hoseliharmaalta (sinertäwältä).

558. Uusi wahinkoton poski-puna (smink).
Kaikki saarnat poski-punan turhuudesta owat mitättömät niinkauan kun waan sitä muodostus-keinona käytetään ja niin ollen asian, ei ole muuta tehtäwää kun keksiä wahinkottoman poski-punan, joka, jos waan naiset sen armohinsa ottaisiwat, soman kiiltonsa wuoksi on muita edullisempi. sellaisen saa Amerikasta ja sitä sopii mirtin rinnalla kaswattaa koristus-kaswuna. Tämän marjoista puserrettu mehu on, näet, poski-puna ja yksi ainoa marja tekee waalean naaman oikein tuoreen punaseksi. Iho ei tästä ensinkään pahane eikä hikoileminen sen kiiltoa muuta; ainoastaan pitkällöinen pouta ta sade sitä wähä waalistaa. Mutta sen paras omaisuus on sittenkin sen soma puna, joka woittaa parhaimman karminipunasen. Tätä kaswua saa Rivina tinctoria'n nimellä tilata parhaimmilta puutarhureilta Lontoossa, Lübeck'issä ja Hamburg'issa.

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559. Luusta tehty muste (Djurkols- l. benswärta).
Miten tätä ainetta monioissa tehtaissa tarwitaan on kyllin tuttu asia ja sen kallista hintaa waan walitetaan ynnä sitä waiwaa mikä on sitä tehdessä. Siis on ruwettu toistamiseen polttamaan jo ennen käytettyä luu-mustetta. Se käy näin: Hiilet pestään ensin monessa wedessa samoin kun puhdistetaan perunaisia tärkki-jauhoja, taikka siihen asti että wesi, kunnes hiilet owat pohjaan laskeuneet, jää puhtaaksi; se kaadetaan sitte pois ja hiilet saawat puoliksi kuiwua siksi että ne saa käyttää seulan läwitse ja niin jaettaa pieniin jywiin tai kokkareihin. Nämät sitte kuiwataan ja sullotaan löyhästi patoihin; ne peitetään ja kuumotetaan punasiksi siihen asti ettei niistä enää kaasu-liekkiä tule. Sitte ne pannaan äkisti kuiwalla sannalla täytettyyn kuoppaan ja peitetään sannalla että hiilet äkisti sammuwat ja jähtywät ilman-hengen niihin saamatta kajoa. Nyt kelpaawat hiilet puhditettawiksi samoin kun ennenkin.

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568. Hajuton maalari-wäri.
2½ naulaa hywin waalistettua kummi-lakkaa ja 1½ naulaa puraksia sulatetaan keittämällä 7½ naulassa wettä ja sekotetaan wieläkin (wedellä) niin että liemi ottaa waan saman tilan kun 10 naulaa (1 5/8 kannua) wettä. Tämän liemen wiidennettä osaa kohtaan lisätään 1/8 tai 1/6 osa kannua sulatettua puhdasta liimaa ja 1 luoti wäki-wiina (sprit). Nämä aineet pankoon kuumuus sekasin. Tämä sekotus lisätään kummi-lakkaliemen jäännökseen, ynnä 20 naulaa plyywittiä ja 2½ luotia waalistettua öljyä; sitte jauhetaan kaikki tawallisessa maalimyllyssä ja kelpaa sitte kaikkein maalari-wärien side-aineeksi, paitsi joku harwa, joissa on rautaa muitten aineitten kanssa pohjana. Tämä on wallan hajuton ynnä kuiwuu niin pikaisesti ettei muuta tarwita kun tunti jokasen maalamisen wälillä.

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573. Miten kirjoituskyniä (pänniä) ruokotaan.
Se käy parhain ja pikemmin weden höyryssä kuumettamalla, joka parhain tehdään siten, että pännä-kimput pannaan päät alaskohden siiwilään, joka taas asetetaan padan jaloille awaraan kattilaan. Siihen pannaan wettä, mutta ei niin paljo, että se saawuttaisi kynät; sitte suljetaan kattila taajalla kannella ja toimitetaan 4 tunniksi kiehumaan. Kynäin huiput leikataan ja sitte niitä hierotaan willasella ynnä pannaan helposti lämmitettyyn uuniin toiseksi päiwäksi, niin sitte owat läpi-hohtawat, luukiwat, mutta kuitenkin ponnistuwat eikä murtuwat. Jos ne kastetaan syöweteen ja tyyni wirutetaan, niin niihin tulee kestäwä kelta. Mutta tässä ne tulewat haperaksi ja ponteus katoo paljon. (Tämä koskee höyhenkyniä, eikä teräskyniä.)

574. Walkonen ilmassa muuttumaton öljy-maali.
Syy minkä wuoksi öljy-wärit wähittäin mustenewat, on hawaittu olewan rikki-sekanen wety-kaasu ja että öljy-maalin kiwi-sekasista aineista lyijymäiset pahanewat enimmin, joka juuri walkosissa wärissä tekee pahimman, sillä niissä on aina lyywittiä. Myöskin on koeteltu mikä maaliksi kelpaawista
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lyijy-aineista wähimmin rikki-sekasesta wety-kaasusta pahanee ja on nähty että waan melkein yksi ainoa pysyy muuttumattomana. se eriää lyijysokurista jahka siihen tiukutetaan wedellä paljo sekotettua suola-hapetta. Tiukuttamista tehdään niinkauan kun liemi siitä sekauntuu; walkosen pohjaan laskeneen aineen annetaan sinne kokoutua, päälle jäänyt liemi kaadetaan pois, pohja-aine pestään monta erää puhtaalla wedellä, kuiwataan ja wiljellään. Tämä maali sekoo helposti öljyn kanssa ja peittää hywin. Tawalliseksi öljymaaliksi on se aiwan kallis, mutta konsti-maalarit, joitten työtä tulewainen aika joutuu näkemään, saattawat näin tawoin jättää teoksensa jälkeen-tulewaisten nähtäwäksi wallan samanmuotosena kun se lähti omasta kädestään.

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591. Oma-teko ultramarin wäri.
3 osan rikkiä (tulikiweä) ja 3 osan suuta-kidetten (sodakristaller) kanssa hierotaan yhteen 2 osaa kaoliniä (walkosta, pii-sekasta sawea); aineet pannaan kitillä suljettuun kiwiseen tislaimeen, jota kuumotetaan wähittäin siksi että siitä ei enää höyryjä tule. Tislain saakoon sitten jähtyä ja särjetään, niin nähdään että se on täynnä känsämäistä, melkosen kauniin wehretä
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wäriä, joka on sen luontosta että kunnes joutuu ilmasta saamaan kosteutta, se muuttuu siniseksi. Tätä ainetta liotetaan wedessä, niin siitä eriää ylöllinen rikki ja siihen jää hellimmän kaunista taiwaan sinistä jauhoa. Liwotus-wirutusta pitkitetään siksi että wesi jää wallan kirkkaaksi ja sitte kuumotetaan jauhot taas punaseksi että wiimeinenkin rikki menisi pois. Tämän kaiken tyyni tehtyä, saadaan hywin kaunis taiwaan sininen wäri, joka tosin ei ole niin loistawa kun Guimetin ultramarin, mutta suuttaa asianomaisille paikottain sopia sitäkin paremmin. Että äsken sanottu ultramarin-wäri wetää punaselta ja on loistawa, joten ei ole luonnollinen ultramarin kumminkaan niin paljo, sattaa ehkä tulla niistä aineista, joita käytetään sitä puhdistaessa. Sillä kunnes sitä kuumotetaan wähä wailla sulattumista, niin sen puna-kiilto osittain katoo ja jos se tehdään lasisessa putkessa, niin käydään siitä wuotawan joitakuita öljymäisiä soittoja, jotka eiwät woi tulla kiwen sukusista aineista.

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595. Miten rikki-hapotettu lyijy tehdään öljywäriin kelpaawaksi lyywitin werosta.
Rikki-hapotettua lyijyä saadaan usein siwu-tulona muutamissa tehtaissa ja syystä että se on kyllä walkosta ja halpaa, on sitä lyywitin werosta koetettu käyttää öljy-maaliin, warsinkin koska se jälkimäistä paremmin kestää rikki-sekasta wety-kaasua ja muita aineita, jotka tekewät lyywitin tummaksi, wieläpä mustaksikin. Mutta tähän asti owat nämät yritykset olleet turhia, syystä että rikki-happonen lyijy peittää aiwan wähä ja waikeasti käy maaliksi hieroa. Kuitenkin se menestyy seuraawalla tawalla, josta on melkonen hyöty sekä konstille että taloudelle.

Rikki-hapotettu lyijy pestään ensin monta kertaa, ensin kiehuwalla ja sitte kylmällä wedellä, niin tawoin että se siihen sekotetaan, annetaan lyijy-aineen laskeuda pohjaan ja wettä muutetaan. Kunnes tällaisen käytöksen perästä annetaan pohjaan laskeuneen aineen kuiwua, joka tulee hölläksi ja walkoseksi, niin sen huokeasti saattaa öljyn kanssa hiertää. 100 waa'an osan kanssa näin hierrettyä öljy-maalia sekotetaan wielä 2 waa'an osaa ennen maaliksi tehtyä öljyä ja hopea-klittiä tai öljyä ja walkosta wihtrilliä. Näin tehty walkonen maali on yhtä walkonen ja peittäwä kun lyywitti-maalikin, mutta kestää paljoa paremmin.

596. Miten tawallinen kinnooperi (cinnober) kiinalaiseksi muutetaan.
Oikein todellinen kiinalainen kinnooperi maksaa usein monenkertaisesti tawallisen hinna, mutta sitä tarwitaan waan
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lakkaan, hienoihin maalauksiin, kiillotuksiin y. m. Kiinalaisen kinnooperin loistawan punasen wärin on huomattu tulewan siitä, että sen joukossa on wähä rikki-sekasta antimoniaa ja tällainen sekotus tehdään näin: puhtaasen hienoksi hierrottuun sinooperiin sekotetaan 1 prosentti waa'astansa rikki-sekasta antimoniaa (antimonium crudum); kuumuudella nämät hienot jauhot sitte kootaan (sublimeras); sulatetaan helpossa lämpymässä (digereras) rikki-kalin ja suola-hapeen (hydrochlorsyra) kanssa, sekotetaan wihdoin ¼ prosentin kanssa wedessä sulatettua liimaa ja sitte saakoon aine kuiwua.

Gardeners Dictionary: Variegated


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)


Variegated signifies streaked or diversified with several colours; of which there are now a great variety of plants in the gardens of the curious, whose leaves are variegated with yellow or white. Those which are spotted with either of these colours in the middle of their leaves, are called blotched (in the gardeners term;) but those whose leaves are edged with these colours are called striped plants. Those plants whose leaves are blotched are generally subject to become plain, when planted in a good soil; or at least in the growing season, will have but a small appearance of the two colours; but those which have edged leaves, rarely become plain again, especially if the edging is broad, and goes quite through the leaves, though these do not appear so finely variegated in the growing season, as they do in the other parts of the year.

All the different sorts of Variegation in plants were at fisrt accidental, being no more than a distemper in the plant, which being observed, has been cherished by impoverishing the soil in which they grow, by which method their stripes are rendered more lasting and beautiful. But whatever some persons have affirmed of striping plans by art, I could never observe it done by any, unless in woody shrubs and trees, which may be variegated by putting in a bud or graft taken from a variegated plant; where, although the buds should not grow, yet if they keep fresh but eight or ten days, they will many times communivate their gilded miasma to the sap of the trees into which they were budded; so that in a short time after, it has appeared very visible in the next adjoining leaves, and has been afterwards spread over the greatest part of the tree; but in such plants as are herbaceous, where this operation cannot be performed, there is no way yet ascertained whereby this striping can be effected by art.

In some sorts of plants this distemper is often communicated to the seeds, so that from the seeds gathered from variegated plants, there will constantly be some variegated plants produced; as in the striped Wing Pea, the greater Maple, &c. therefore these may be constantly propagated that way.

That this striping proceeds from the weakness of plants is very evident, since it is always observed, that whenever plants alter thus in the colour of their leaves, they do not grow so large as before, nor are they so capable to endure the cold; so that many sorts of plants which are hardy enough to endure the cold of our climate in the open air when in their natural verdure, require to be sheltered in the winter after they are become variegated, and are seldom of so long continuance; which is a plain proof that it is a distemper in the plants, since whenever they become vigorous, this striping is either rendered less visible, or entirely thrown off; especially (as was before observed) if the plants are only blotched, or if the edging be of a yellow colour, it is less apt to remain than when it is white; which is esteemed the most beautiful striping, and which (when once thoroughly established) is hardly ever to be got out of the plants again, so as to render the leaves entirely green.

Nay, such is the venom of this morbid matter, that it not only tinges the leaves, but also the bark and fruit of trees are infected by it, as in the Orange, Pear, &c. whose bark and fruit are striped in the same manner as their leaves.

The different colours which appear in flowers also proceed from the same cause, though it is generally in a less degree in them than when the leaves and branches are infected: for the various colours which we see in the same flowers, are occasioned by the separation of the nutritive juice of plants, or from the alteration of their parts; whereby the smaller corpuscles, which are carried to the surfaces of the flower leaves, are of different forms, and thereby reflect the rays of light in different proportions. In order to understand this, it may not be improper to say something concerning the phæmenon of colous, as it hath been discovered by the late excellent philosopher Sir Isaac Newton.

1. Colour may be considered two ways: (1.) As a qualify residing in the body that is said to be so and so coloured, or which doth modify the light after such a manner; or (2.) as more properly the light itself, which being so modified, shines upon the organ of sight, and produces that sensation we call colour.

2. Colour is defined to be a property inherent in light, whereby, according to the different sizes or magnitudes of its parts, it excites different vibrations in the fibres of the optic nerve, which being propagated to the sensorium, affects the mind with different sensations.

3. Again: colour may be defined a sensation of the soul, excited by the application of light to the retina of the eye; and different, as the light differs in the degree of its refrangibility, and the magnitude of its component parts.

4. According to the first definition, light is the subject of colour: according to the latter it is the agent.

5. So then light sometimes signifies that sensation occasioned in the mind, by the view of luminous bodies; sometimes that property in those bodies, whereby they are fitted to excite those sensations in us.

6. Various are the opinions of ancient and modern authors, and of the several sects of philosophers, with regard to the nature and origin of the phænomenon colour.

7. the peripatetics assert colours to be real qualities, and inherent in the coloured bodies; and suppose that light doth only discover them, but not any way affect their production.

8. Plato thought colour to be a kind of flame consisting of most minute particles, very conguous to the pores of the eye, and darted against it from the object.

9. Some morderns will have colour to be a kind of internal light of more lucid parts of the object darkened, and consequently altered by the various mixtures of the less luminous parts.

10. Others, as did some of the antient atomists, maintain colour not to be a lucid stream, but a corporeal essluvium issuing out of the coloured body.

11. Others account for all colours out of the various mixture of light and darkness; and the chemists will have it sometimes arise from the sulphur, and sometimes from the salt htat is in bodies; and some also from the third hypostatic principle, i. e. mercury.

12. The most popular opinion is that of the followers of Aristotle, who maintain, that colour is a property inherent in the coloured body, and that it exists without any dependence on light.

13. The Cattesians, who made the sensation of light to be the impulse made on the eye by certain solid, but very minute globules, easily penetrating the pores of the air, and diaphonous bodies; these derive colour from the various proportion of the direct progress or motion of these globules to their circumrotation or motion round their own centred, by which means they are qualified to strike the optic nerve, after distinct and divers manners, and so produce the perception of divers colours.

14. They own that as the coloured body is not immediately applied to the organ to occasion the sensation, as no body can affect the sense but by immediate contact, the coloured body does not excite the sensation of itself, or contribute any thing to it, otherwise than by moving some interposed medium, and by that the organ of sight.

15. They add, that as it is found that bodies do not affect the sense in the dark, and that light only occasions the sensation of colour, by moving the organ; and that coloured bodies are no farther concerned than in reflecting the light in a certain modification; the difference in colours, according to them, arises in a difference in the texture of their parts, by which they are disposed to reflect heir light with this or that modification.

16. Dr. Hook, in his Micographia says, The phantasm of colours is caused by the sensation of the oblique or uneven pulse of light, and that this is capable of no more varieties than two, which arise from the sides of the oblique pulse; so that there are in reality but two simple colours, yellow and blue; from the mixture of which, and a due proportion of black and white (that is, darkness and light) all colours may be [be] produced.

17. But this phænomenon if nature and colour, having long perplexed philosophers to account for the discoveries relating thereto, the incomparable Sir Isaac Newton found by two experiments on prisms, that there is a great deformity in the rays of light, and that hereby the origin of colours may be unfolded. The doctrine of colours therefore, according to his notion and experiments, are contained in the following propositions:

1. That light consists of an infinite number of rays, right lined and parallel, but of different degrees of refrangibility, when meeting with a different medium.

2. Each ray, according to its degree of refrangibility, when so refracted, appears to the eye of a different colour.

3. The least frangible rays appear of a deep scarlet colour; the most refrangible appear of a Violet blue; the intermediate proceeding from scarlet to yellowish, then to light green, and so to blue.

4. The colours arising from the different degrees of refrangibility of light are not only the more noted colours of red, yellow, green and blue, but also all the intermediate colours of red to yellow, of yellow to green, &c.

5. Whiteness, (such as the sun's light appears,) containing all those degrees of refrangibility, is consequently made up of all the above-mentioned colours.

6. Simple or homogeneal colours, are such as are produced by homogeneal lights or rays, which have the same degree of refrangibility; and mixed colours are such as are produced by rays of different refrangibility.

7. Rays of the same refrangibility produce the same colour; which colour is not alterable by repeated refractions, but only made strong or faint, as the rays are united or scattered.

8. All bodies appear of this or that colour, according as their surfaces are adapted to reflect only the rays of such colour: or at least n more plenty than the rest.

But to explain these things farther:

It is found by experience, that rays or beams of light are composed of particles very heterogeneous or dissimilar to each other; i. e. some of them, as it is highly probable, are larger, and others less; for a ray of light, being received on a refracting surface in a dark place, is not wholly refracted, but split as it were, and diffused into several little rays; some of which are refracted to the extreme points, and others to the intermediate points; i. e. those particles of the light, which are most minute, are diverted the most easily and most considerably of all others, by the action of the refracting surface, out of their rectilineal course; and the rest, as each exceeds another in magnitude, so it is turned out of its wight line with much difficulty, and less considerably.

Now each ray of light, as it differs from another in its degree of refrangibility, so likewise it differs from it in colour. This is warranted by numerous experiments.

Those particles which are more refracted, are found to constitute a ray of a Violet colour; i. e. in all probability, the most minute particles of light, thus separately impelled, excite the shortest vibration in the retina, which are thence propagated by the solid fibres of the optic nerve into the brain, there to excite the sensation of Violet colour, as being the most dusky and languid of all colours.

Again: those particles which are the most refracted constitute a radiolus, or little ray, or a red colour; i. e. the largest particles of light excite the longest vibrations in the retina, so as to excite the sensation of red colour, the brightest and most vivid of all colours. It is remarkable, that in the growing of plants, the same plants do from time to time, alter and change their colours as the vessels which are in their young shoots grow larger. The leaves are of a faint yellow when they are in their smaller state, but they become of a bright green; or sometimes red, when they are in their middle state; but when their vessels are enlarged to their full growth, they become of a dark green, and then change to a feuillemort colour towards autumn, from the ripening of their juices; from thence to putrefaction, which resolves itself again into earth, its first principle.

Gardeners Dictionary: Tan


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)


Tan, or Tanners Bark is the Bark of the Oak-tree, chopped or ground into coarse powder, to be used in tanning or dreffing of skins, after which it is of great use in gardening: first, by its fermentation (when laid in a proper quantity,) the hear of which is always moderate, and of a long duration, which renders it of great service for hot beds; and secondly, after it is well rotted, it becomes excellent manure for all sorts of cold stiff land, upon which one load of Tan is better than two of rotten dung, and will continue longer in the ground.

The use of Tan for hot-beds has not been many years known in England. The first hot-beds of this sort, which were made in England, were at Blackheath in Kent, above fourscore years ago; these were designed for the raising of Orange-trees, but the use of these hot-beds being but little known at that time, they were made but by two or three persons, who had learned the use of them in Holland and Flanders, where the gardeners seldom make any other hot-beds; but in England there were very few hot-beds made of Tanners Bark before the Ananas plants were introduced into this country, which was in 1719, since which time the use of these hot-beds has been more general, and are now made in all those gardens where the Ananas plants are cultivated, or where there are collections of tender exotic plants preserved; and the gardeners here are now better skilled in the making and managing of these hot-beds than in most other countries, which might render it less necessary to give a full description of them here; but yet, as there may be some persons in the remote parts of England, who have not had an opportunity of informing themselves of the use of Tanners Bark for this purpose, I shall insert the shortest and plainest method of making and managing these hot-beds, as they are practised by the most knowing persons, who have long made use of these hot-beds; and first, I shall begin with the choice of the Tan.

The tanners in some parts of England do not grind the Bark to reduce it into small pieces, as is commonly practised by the tanners near London, where there is great difference in the size of the bark, some being ground much smaller than the other, according to the different purposes for which it is intended; but in many places the Bark is only chopped into large pieces, which renders it very different for the use of hot-beds; for if the Tan is very coarse, it will require a longer time to ferment than the small Tan; but when it begins to heat, t will acquire a much greater degree, and will retain the heat a much longer time than the small; therefore where there is choice, the middling-sized Tan should be preferred, for it is very difficult to manage a hot-bed when made of the largest Tan; the heat of which is often so great, as to scald the roots of plants, if the pots are fully plunged into the bed; and I have known this violent heat continue upward of two months, so that it has been unsafe to plunge the pots more than half their depth into the Tan, till near three months after the beds have been made; therefore where the persons, who have the care of these beds, do not diligently observe their working, they may in a short time destroy the plants which are placed in the beds: on the other hand, if the Tan is very small, it will not retain the heat above a month or six weeks, and will be rotten and unfit for a hot-bed in a short time; so that where the middle-sized Tan can be procured, it should always be preferred to any other.

The Tan should be always such as been newly taken out of the pits, for if it lies long in the tanners yard before it is used, the beds seldom acquire a proper degree of heat, nor do they continue their heat long; so that when it has been more than a fortnight or three weeks out of the pit it is not so good for use as that which is new. If the Tan is very wet, it will be proper to spread it abroad for two or three days, to drain out the moisture, especially if it is in autumn or winter season, because then, as there will be little fun to draw a warmth into the Tan, the moisture will prevent the fermentation, and the beds will remain cold; but in the summer season, there is no great danger from the moisture of the Tan. The heat of the sun through the glasses will be then so great, as soon to cause a fermentation in the Tan.

These Tan-beds should be always made in pits having brick-walls round them, and a brick pavement at the bottom, to prevent the earth from mixing wit hthe Tan, which will prevent the Tan from heating. These pits must not be less than three feet deep, and six feet in width, but seven is better; the length must be in proportion to the number of plants they are to contain, but if they are not ten feet in length, they will not retain their heat long; for where there is not a good body of Tan, the outside of the bed will soon lose its heat, so that the plants which are there plunged, will have no benefit of the warmth, nor will the middle of these beds retain their heat long, so that they will not answer the purpose for which they are intended.

When the Tan is put into the bed, it must not be beaten or trodden down too close, for that will cause it to adhere, and form one solid lump, so that it will not acquire a proper heat; nor should it be trodden down at the time when the pots are plunged into the beds, to avoid which there should be a board laid cross the bed, which should be supported at each end, to prevent its resting upon the Tan, upon which the person should stand who plunges the pots, so that the Tan will not be pressed down too close. When the Tan is quite fresh, and has not been out of the pits long enough to acquire a heat, the beds will require a fortnight, or sometimes three weeks, before they will be of a proper temperature of warmth to receive the plant; but in order to judge of this, there should be three or four sticks thrust down into the Tan, about eighteen inches deep, in different parts of the bed, so that by drawing out the sticks, and feeling them at different depths, it will be easy to judge of the temper of the bed; and it will be proper to let a few of these sticks remain in the bed after the plants are plunged, in order to know the warmth of the Tan, which may be better judged of by feeling these sticks, than by drawing out the pots, or plunging the hand into the Tan.

When the Tan is good, one of these beds will retain a proper degree of heat for near three months; and when the heat declines, if the Tan is forked up and turned over, and some new Tan added to it, the heat will renew again, and will continue two months longer; so that by turning over the Tan, and adding some new Tan every three months or thereabouts, as the bed is found to decline of its heat, they may be continued one year, but every autumn it will be proper to take out a good quantity of the old Tan; and to add as much new to the bed, that the heat of the bed may be kept up in winter; for if the heat is suffered to decline too much during the cold season; the plants will suffer greatly; to prevent this, there should always be some new Tan added to the bed in winter, when the heat is found to decline; but the Tan should be laid in a dry place a week or ten days to dry, before it is put into the bed, otherwise the moisture will chill the old Tan in the bed, and prevent the fermentaation; so that unless the Tan is turned over again, there will be little or no heat in the beds, which often proves fatal to the plants which are plunged in them; therefore whoever has the management of these beds, should be very careful to observe constantly the warmth of the Tan, since, upon keeping the beds in a due temperature of warmth, their whole success depends, and where this caution is not taken, it frequently happens that the Ananas plants run into fruit very small, or the plants are infected by insects, both which are occasioned by the growth of the plants being stopped by the decline of the heat of the Tan; therefore great regard must be had to that, especially in winter.

The great advantages which these tan-beds have of those which are made of horse-dung, are the moderate degree of heat which they acquire, for their heat is never so violent as that of horse-dung, and they continue this heat much longer; and when the heat declines, it may be renewed, by turning the beds over, and mixing some new Tan with the old, which cannot be so well done with horse-dung; and likewise the beds will not produce so great steams, which are often injurious to tender plants, so that these Tanbeds are much preferable to those of horse-dung for most purposes.

Tan, when it is well rotted, is also an excellent manure for all cold and stiff lands; and if it is laid upon Grass ground in autumn, that the rains in winter may wash it into the ground, it will greatly improve the Grass; but when it is used new, or in the spring of the year, when dry weather comes soon after, it is apt to cause the Grass to burn, which has occasioned the disuse of Tan in many places; but if properly used, it will be found an excellent dressing for all stiff lands.

Gardeners Dictionary: Sanguinaria


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)


SANGUINARIA. Dill. Hort. Elth. 252. Lin. Gen. Plant. 570. Puccoon.

The CHARACTERS are,
The empalement of the flower is composed of two oval concave leaves, which fall away. It has eight oblong, obtuse, spreading petals, which are alternately narrow. It has many single stamina which are shorter than the petals, terminated by single summits, and an oblong compressed germen having no style, crowned by a permanent thick stigma with two channels. The germen becomes an oblong bellied capsule with two valves, pointed at both ends, inclosing round acute-pointed seeds.

This genus of plants is ranged in the first section of Linnæus's thirteenth class, which includes those plants whose flowers have many stamina and one style.

We have bt one SPECIES of this genus, viz.

SANGUINARIA (canadensis.) Hort. Cliff. 202. Puccoon. Chelidonium majus, Canadense acaulon. Corn. Canad. 212. Greater Celandine of Canada having no stalks.

There are some few other varieties of this plant mentioned in the Eltham Garden, but they are not fistinct species, for they vary annually, therefore it is to no purpose to mention their variations.

This lant was formerly ranged in the genus of Celandine, by the title of Chelidonium maximum Canadente acaulon; and this name of Sanguinaria was applied to it by Dr. Dillenius, who was professor of botany at Oxford. We have no proper English name for this, but as the inhabitants of America call it by the Indian name Puccoon, I have continued it here.

It is a native of most of the northern parts of America, where it grows plentifully in the woods; and in the spring, before the leaves of the trees come out, the surface of the ground is, in many places, covered with the flowers, which have some resemblance to our Wood Anemone, but they have short naked pedicles, each supporting one flower at the top. Some of these flowers will have ten or twelve petals, so that they appear to have a double range of leaves, which has occasioned their being termed double flowers; but this is only accidental, the same roots in different years producing different flowers. The roots of this plant are tuberous, and the whole plant has a yellow juice, which the Indians use to paint themselves.

This plant is hardy enough to live in the open air in England, but it should be planted in a loose soil and a sheltered situation, but not too much exposed to the sun. It is propagated by the roots, which may be taken up and parted every other year; the best time for doing of this is in September, that the roots may have time to send out fibres before the hard frost sets in. The flowers of this plant appear in April, and when they decay, the green leaves come out, which will continue till Midsummer; then they decay, and the roots remain unactive till the following autumn; so that unless the roots are marked, it will be pretty difficult to find them after their leaves decay, for they are of a dirty brown colour on the outside, so are not easily distinguished from the earth.

The plant is very proper to mix with the Dog'stooth Violet, Spring Cyclamen, Persian Iris, Bulbocodium, Sisyrinchium, and some other low growing bulbous and tuberous-rooted flowers, which require the same culture, where these will add to the variety when they are in beauty; for when the roots are strong and grow in a good soil, they will produce a great number of flowers upon each root; the roots may be planted about four or five inches asunder every way.

Gardeners Dictionary: Rubia



Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)




RUBIA. Tourn. Inst. R. G. 113. tab. 38. Lin. Gen. Plant. 119. [takes its name from its red colour, because the root of this plant is used in dyeing a red colour.] Madder; in French, Garance

The CHARACTERS are,
The empalement of the flower is small, cut into four segments, and sits upon the germen. The flower has one bell-shaped petal having no tube, but is divided into four parts. It hath four awn-shaped stamina which are shorter than the petals, terminated by single summits; and a twin germen under the flower, supporting a slender stule divided into two parts upward, and crowned by two headed stigmas. The germen afterward become two smooth berries joined together, each having one roundih seed with a navel.

This genus of plants is ranged in the first section of Linnæus's fourth class, which contains those plants whose flowers have four stamina and one style.

The SPECIES are,

1. RUBIA (Tinctorum) foliis senis lanceolatis supernè glabris. Madder with six spear-shaped leaves in whorls, whose upper surfaces are smooth. Rubia tinctorum sativa. C. B. P. 333. Cultivated Dyer's Madder.

2. RUBIA (Sylvestris) foliis inferioribus fenis, supernè quaternis binisve, utrinque asperis. Madder with the lower leaves growing by sixes round the stalks, and the upper ones by fours or pairs, which are rough on both sides. Tubia sylvestris aspera, quæ sylvestris Dioscoridis. C. B. P. 333. Rough wld Madder of Dioscorides.

3. RUBIA (Peregrina) foliis quaternis. Prod. Leyd. 254. Madder with four leaves which are placed round the stalks. Rubia quadrifolia asperrima lucida peregrina. H. L. 523. Foreign four-leaved Madder, with shining rough leaves.

The first sort which is cultivated for the root, which is used in dyeing and staining of linens, grows naturally in the Levant. This hath a perennial root and an annual stalk; the root is composed of many long, thick, succulent fibres, almost as large as a man's little finger; these are joined at the top in a head, like the roots of Asparagus, and root very deep into the ground; I have taken up roots, whose strong fibres have been more than three feet long; from the upper part (or head of the root) come out many side roots, which extend just under the surface of the ground to a great distance, whereby it propagates very fast; for these send up a great number of shoots, which, if carefully taken off in the spring, soon after they are above ground, become so many plants. These roots are of a dark colour on their outside, somewhat transparent, and have a yellowis red pith in the middle, which is tough and of a bitterish taste; from the root arise many large, four-cornered, jointed stalks, which in good land will grow five or six feet long, and if supported, sometimes seven or eight; they are armed with short herbaceous prickles, and at each joint are placed five or six spear-shaped leaves, about three inches long, and near one broad in the middle, drawing to a point at each end; their upper surfaces are smooth, but their midrib on the under side are armed with rough herbaceous spines; the leaves sit close to the branches in whorld. From the joints of the stalk come out the branches, which sustain the flowers; they are placed by pairs opposite, each pair croffing the other; these have a few small leaves toward the bottom, which are by threes, and upward by pairs opposite; the branches are terminated by loose branching spikes of yellow flowers, which are cut into four segments resembling stars. These appear in June, and are sometimes succeeded by seeds which seldom ripen in England.

The second sort grows naturally in Spain, and in the south of France; this hath perennial roots like those of the first sort, but are much larger; the stalks of this are smaller than those of the first sort, and are almost smooth; their lower parts are garnished with narrow leaves, placed by sevens in whorls round the stalks, but upward they diminish to four, three, and two toward the top; these are rough on both sides; at each joint of the stalk comes out two short foot-stalks opposite, having two small rough leaves, and end with branching foot-stalks, sustaining small yellow flowers. This sort flowers the latter end of June, but does not produce seeds here.

The third sort grows naturally in Spain and the Baleriac Islands; I received the seeds of this sort from Gibraltar, and also from Minorca, whre the plants grew out of the crevices of the rocks. The roots of this sort are much smaller than those of the two former, but are less succulent; they strike deep into the ground, and send up several slender four-cornered stalks which are perennial; they grow a foot and a half long, and divide into many branches, whose joints are very near each other; they are garnished with short stiff rough leaves, placed by fours round the stalk; they are about an inch long, and half an inch broad in the middle, of a lucid green, and continue all the year. This hath not produced flowers in England.

There is a sort which grows naturally in Wales, and also upon St. Vincent's rock. which has four leaves at each joint, but these are narrower and longer than those of the third sort; the stalks of this are perennial, and the leaves evergreen; so that Mr. Ray has mistaken this plant, having supposed it to be the second, which hath annual stalks rising much higher, therefore I should rather think it might be the third sort, if they were equally hardy; but the third sort is so tender, as to be always killed by severe frosts in England, if exposed to the open air.

The first sort is that which is cultivated for the use of the dyers and callico printers, and is so essential to both manufactories, as that neither of those businesses can be carried on without this commodity; and the consumption of it is so great here, as that upon a moderate computation, there is annually so much of it imported from Holland, as the price of it amounts to more than one hundred and eighty thousand pounds sterling; which might be saved to the public, if a sufficient quantity of it were planted in England, where it might be cultivated to greater advantage than in Holland, the lands here being better adapted to grow this plant. But as the growing of this plant in quantity, has been for several years discontinued, so the method of culture is not well known to many persons here; and as there is at present an inclination in the public to regain this lost branch of trade (for formerly there was not only enough of this commodity raised in England for our own consumption, but also great guantities of it were sent abroad,) so we shall here give a full account of the culture of the plant, and also of the method of preparing the root for use; and shall begin with the method now practised in Zealand, where the best and greatest quantity of Madder is now raised.

In all the Netherlands, there is no where better Madder cultivated, than in Schowen, one of the islands of Zealand, which is performed in the following manner:

The land which is designed for Madder, if it is strong and heavy, is ploughed twice in autumn, that the frost in winter may mellow it and break the clods; then it is ploughed again in the spring, just before the time of planting the Madder; but if the ground is light, then it is ploughed twice in the spring; at the last ploughing it is divided into lands of three feet broad, with furrows between each land four or five inches deep. Madder requires a loamy substantial soil, not too stiff and heavy, or over light and sandy; for although it may thrive tolerably well in the latter, yet such land cannot have a second crop of Madder planed upon it in less than eight or ten years interval; but in Schowen, where the land is substantial, they neet not stay longer than three or four years, in which interval the ground is sown with Corn, or planted with nay kinds of pulse. It is granted, that the best land for producing of Madder is in Schowen, where a hemet of land, which is three hundred square rods of twelve feet each, will yield from one thousand pounds to three thousand pounds weight, according to the goodness oft he land and the favourableness of the seasons; but in light land, the quantity is from five hundred to a thousand pounds weight.

The time for planting of Madder begins toward the end of April, and continues all May, and sometimes in very backward springs, there is some Madder planted the beginning of June. the young shoots from the sides of the root are taken off from the mother plant, with as much root as possible; these are called kiemen, and are planted with an iron dibble in rows at one foot asunder, and commonly four kiemen in a row.

The quantity of these slips (or kiemen) as is required to plant one gemet of land, are sold at different prices, according to the price which Madder bears, or to the demand for the plans; they are often sold from sixteen to twenty guilders, and sometimes they have been sold for ten to eleven pounds Flemish, but the lowest price is from fifteen guilders to three pounds Flemish.

The expence of planting out a gemet of land with slips (or kiemen) costs for labour only, from sixteen to twenty guilders, according as the land is heavy or light: there are generally employed six men to plant, two to rake the ground, these earn each a huilder a day; and five or six women or boys, called carpers or pluckers of the shoots or kiemen, these earn twelve Dutch pence a day, or two schillings.

The first year the Madder is planted, it is customary to plant Cabbages or Dward Kidney-beand, in the surrows between the beds, but there is always great care taken to keep the ground clean from weeds; this is generally contracted for at two pounds Flemish for each gemet of land.

In September or October, when the young Madder is cleaned for the last time that season, the green haulm (or stalks) of the plants, is carefully spread down over the beds, without cutting any part off, and in November the Madder is covered over the haulm with three or four inches of earth.

This covering of the Madder, is performed either with the plough or with the spade; if it is done by the first, it costs two guilders and a half, or three guilders in strong land each gemet, and over and above this, one guilder and a half to level the tops of the beds, and make them smooth; but it is better performed with the spade, only it is more chargeable, for that costs from eight to ten guilders each gemet, but at the same time the clods are broken, and the surface of the beds is made smooth and even.

The second year in the beginning of April, which is about the time the kiemen or young shoots are beginning to come out, the earth on the top of the beds should be scuffled over and raked, to destroy the young weeds, and make the surface smooth and mellow, that the kiemen may shoot out the easier above ground; this labour costs three shillings each gemet. The second summer there must be the same care taken to keep the Madder cleand as in the first, and then nothing is planted in the furrows, or suffered to grow there; at the last time of cleaning the ground, in September or October, the green haulm is again spread down upon the beds; and in November the Madder is again covered with earth, in the same manner as the first year.

By this method of culture, one can see how necessary it is to plant the Madder in beds, for thereby it is much easier covered with the earth of the furrows; and hereby the earth of the beds in every time heightened, whereby the Madder roots will be greatly lengthened, and the kiemen or young shoots will have longer necks, and by being thus deeply earthed, will put out more fibres and have much better roots, without which they will not grow; and it is of equal use to the mother plants, for by this method the roots will be longer; and in this consists the goodness and beauty of the Madder, for those which have but few main roots, are not so much esteemed as those which are well furnished with side roots called tengels; a Madder plant that has many of these roots, is called a well bearded Madder plant; therefore one must never cut off these side roots, for by so doing there will be a less crop of Madder, and but few kiemen or young shoots can be produced; besides, by the loss of moisture, sometimes the plants will droop and become weak; and there is great profit in having a large quantity of kiemen to draw in the spring, which are in plenty the second and third years.

The Madder roots are seldom dug up the second year, but generally after it has grown three summers, therefore the culture of the third year is the same as in the second, during the spring and summer.

Before the first day of September, it is forbidden to dig up any Madder in this island; but on that day, early inthe morning , a beginning is made, and the person who carries the first cart load to the stove, has a premium of a golden rider, or three ducats.

The digging up the Madder of a gemet of land, costs from thirty-six to one hundred guilders, according to the goodness of the crop, and the lightness of stiffness of the ground, but in light land it costs from nine to ten pounds Flemish; the persons who are adroit in this business, are generally paid five shillings Flemish per day.

The Madder produces flowers in the middle of summer, and sometimes a few seeds, but they never ripen here; nor would they be of use to cultivate the plants, since it is so easily done by the kiemen.

Some years past they behan to plant here the great wild Madder, which was called French Madder, but this was not esteemed so good for use as the tame Madder, from which it differs so much, so that was not continued. The more bitter of taste the roots of the Madder are, when taken out of the ground before it is brought to the stove, the less it will loose of its weight in drying, and is the better afterward for use.

When the Madder is dug out of the ground, it is carried to the stove, and there laid in heaps; in that which is called the cold stove, and separated with hurdles made of wicker, and memorandum kept of each parcel, and to what countryman it belongs, that each may be dried in their turns, and prepared or manufactured, for which turn generally lots are cast beforehand. The Madder thus carried to the stove is relzyn.

This relzyn is carried about six o'clock in the morning, into the tower or steeple, hoisted in baskets by ropes to the rooms, and divided or spread, where it remains till the next day, two or three o'clock in the morning, about twenty or twenty-one hours; then those roots which have lain in the hottest places are removed to cooler, and those in the cooler are removed to the hotter places nearer the oven. This is continued for four or five days, according as there has been more or less carried here; but it is always the goods of one person, that every one may have his own, and of as equal quality as possible, when it is delivered out.

When the Madder is sufficiently dried in the tower, when it is threshed on the treshing-floor, which is made cleand from dirt or filth, and then it is brought to the kiln, and there spread on a hair-cloth for about twenty hours, during which time the kiln is made mroe or less hot, according as the roots are more or less thick, or the weather being more or less cold.

From the kiln the Madder is moved to the pounding-house, and is there pounded on an oaken block made hollow, with six stampers plated at the bottom with iron bands; these stampers are kept in motion by a mill very much resembling a grift mill, which is turned by three horses; the presence of the pounding-master is here always required, to stir the Madder continually with a shovel, to bring it under the stampers. When the Madder is thus properly pounded, it is sifted over a tub till there is enough to fill a cask: this first pounding, which chiefly consists of the thinnest and smallest roots, and the outside husks with some earth, which by drying and treshing could not be separated, is called mor-mull.

What remains in the sieve is put on the block again, and pounded a second time, and when the pounding-master guesses a third part is pounded, then the Madder is taken out again and sifted over another tub, and put into a separate cask, and this is called for gemeens; that which remains in this second operation, not enough pounded in the sieve, is for the third time put on the block, and pounded till it is all reduced to powder, which is called kor kraps.

When the Madder is cleansed from the dirt and mull, and is entirely pounded at once, then it is called oor onberoofde, so that this inberoofde actually consists of the gemeens and krapds pounded together, and sisted without separating them from each other.

When there is two thirds of kraps, and one third gemeens, which was separately prepared or manufactured, then they are called two and one, or marked &frac21;. The sweepings of the stove, as also of the ground and beams being swept together is not lost, but is put amongst the mull, or sold by itself.

The sweepings of the mill, and every part of the pounding-place, is also gathered together, and put into a cask; this is called den beer.

When the Madder is thus prepared and put into casks, it is in Zealand examinded by sworn assayres and tried, if it is not faulty packed up; that is, whether in the preparing it is properly manufactured, or falsely packed up, and to see if every part of the cask is filled with Madder of equal goodness and quality, not burned in the drying, or mixed with dirt; which the assayers by certain trials, and by weighing and washing of the madder can know, if it is according to the statutes of the country.

There are sundry statutes made and published by the states of Zealand, concerning the preparing of Madder; as one of the 28th of July 1662, one on the 29th of September, and 31st of October 1671, another on the 23d of September 1699, and the last on the 28th of April 1735; by which statutes, among other things, it is strictly forbidden, That no person shall prepare kraps, in which there shall be more than two pounds of dirt in a hundred weight; nor above eight pounds in the like weight of onberoofde, or in gemeens more than twelve pounds in a hundred weight.

If the Madder upon trial is found good, the arms of the city or village, and the sign of the stove where the Madder was prepared, is painted on the cask with black paint. The trial of the Madder is in no place more exact, or more religiously observed, than in the city of Zinkzee; therefore merchants in Germany, who know this, always prefer the Madder of that place to all others, and will not buy any which has not the arms of Zirkzee painted upon the casks, if they are to be had.

We before mentioned the tower, the kiln, &c. where the Madder is dried and prepared for use, the draughts of these are exhibited in the annexed plates, with their explanation: but that a better judgment may be formed of their use, we shall here take notice, that the tower is te place where the Madder is first dried. This tower is heated by fifteen or sixteen pipes or flues of brick-work, which run on each side the tower under the flooe, and are covered with low burnt tiles, sme of which are loose; so that by taking up these, the heat is moderated and conducted to any part of the tower, the person who has the care of drying the Madder pleases.

The tower has four or five lofts made of strong laths; they are four or five feet above each other, upon which the Madder is laid; these are heated by an oven, which is placed in the room where the work people live, and is by them called the glory.

The kiln is in a room whose length is equal to the breadth of the stove, and is entirely arched over at the top; the oven by which the kiln is heated, is called the hog; this is built upon a stone wall, which rises a foot or two above ground; and the small arch by which the heat passes through every part, has several square little holes in the brick-work, that the heat may come out; over these holes, on the top of the kiln, are laid wooden laths the whole length, and upon them a hair-cloth, on which the Madder is laid to dry, before it is carried to the pounding-place. In the Madder-stoves there is no other fuel used but Friezland turf, which gives an equal and moderate heat.

In the Madder-stoves, the people work more by night than day; first, because at the time of the year when the Madder is brought into the stoves, the nights are much colder than the days; and secondly, that the master, who must be always attentive to his work, may not be interrupted by visitors; and thirdly, because the see less dust; but principally, because the Madder which is pounded in the night is of a much better colour than that which is pounded in the day.

In the Madder-stoves are always constant workmen, one who is the drier, who has the care of drying the Madder in the tower and the kiln; for the right performance of this, art and experience is required, the goodness of the Madder greatly depending on the right drying. This person is a sort of foreman, and has the direction of all the workmen; his pay is five stivers, for every hundred weight of Madder which is prepared in the stove; he has one person under him for his assistant, to perform part of the laborious work, and to be always at hand; this man is paid eighteen or nineteen shillings per week Flemish, which is the constant wages.

The third person is the pounder, who is always present when the Madder is pounding, who with a particular shovel which is small, and fitted to the cavity of the pounding-block, stirs the Madder from time to time, to bring it under the stampers; he is paid four stivers for every hundred weight of Madder.

The fourth is a driver, who with a team of three horses, causes the mill to turn and pound the Madder; his pay for himself and the three horses, from eight to nine stivers per hundred weight, according as he can bargain.

Besides these four, there are five other assistants, who lay the Madder on and take it off; this is often perdormed by the wives and boys of the other workmen; these five have fifty stivers for every three thousand pounds of Madder which is pepared, so they have each ten stivers.

There are nineteen or twenty Madder-stoves in the island of Schowen, which, at an average, prepare in one crop, that lasts from September to February, tne thousand weight of Madder each, which in the whole, amounts to two million pounds weight; and if we suppose, that the Madder is sold at an average for four pounds Flemish per hundred weight, which is a moderate price, one may soon reckon what advantage the culture of this dyeing commodity produces to this one island.

The countrymen pay to the owners of the Madder-stoves, two guilders for preparing every hundred weight of mull, and for each hundred weight of hard Madder; that is, of kraps, gemeens, or onberoodfe, three guilders, according as they will have them prepared.

The building of a Madder-stove quite new from the foundation, costs in the whole about twenty-four hundred pounds Flemish, which is twelve hundred pounds sterling.




PLATE I.
An explanation of the plan of the cold stove.

Fig. 1. Is the lower band, whose thickness is fourteen by fifteen inches.
2. The upper band, which is twelve by fourteen inches.
3. The cap and band, which is ten by twelve inches.
4. The upper cap, which is six by seven inches.
5. The two main jambs, which are thirteen by fifteen inches of stone.
6. The half bands and posts, of nine by seven inches.
7. The uppermost half band, which is small, six by eight inches.



PLATE II.
A plan of the arched room cut through perpendicularly in the middle where the kiln stands, with a representation of the kiln.

AA Is the cut of the arch.
B The oven of the kiln, which is called the hog; this has no chimney; when the fire is first kindled either with turf or other fuel, the smoke is let out through a small window.
CCC A stone foundation on which the oven and kiln is built.
CC Is properly the kiln itself, which must be observed in what manner it is built, with little holes to let out the heat.
DD Stone bands made for the greater firmness, about the kiln.
EEEE Iron bars placed to strengthen the kiln, and also to lay the upper long lath upon.
F Small cross laths over the kiln, which lie from one end C to the other end C upon the kiln, but there are few of these represented, that the small holes of the kiln may better appear,.
G The door of the entrance.


PLATE III.
A plan of the tower where the Madder is first laid to dry.

A Is the oven of the tower.
BB The pipes whereby the heat spreads itself, is here shewn by the openings where the tyles are taken off.
C A fort of stairs by which they climb.
DD The windlass with its rope and hook, to hoist the Madder to the lofts.
EEEE The four lofts of the lath of the oven.
F The chimney above the roof.
G The door by which they enter.


PLATE IV.
An explanation of the plan of the section of the tower.

Fig. 1. 1. 1. 1. The four bands of the tower which are sixteen inches square.
2. The cap band, ten by twelve inches.
3. The springing band, six by eight inches.
4. The interstice to the tower, six by seven inches.
5. The spaning plate, five by seven inches.
6. 6. The lower and second girder, six by seven inches.
7. The third girder, seven by nine inches.
8. The fourth girder, six by eight inches.
9. The fifth girder, six by seven inches.
10. The crown piece of the tower, five by six inches.
The ribs in the tower must be laid fourteen inches asunder from middle to middle, corner-ways, and the laths between an inch and a half distant.


PLATE V.
A plan of the pounding-house, in which is shewn at A, the driver, who, with his three horses, causes te mill to turn, which works the stampers: At B is shewn the pounder, who, with his shovel, continually brings the Madder under the stampers.

Fig. 1. Is the beam which supports the axle-tree, which is fourteen by fifteen inches.
2. The hollow Oaken block or trough, twenty-seven by twenty-nine inches.
3. The king post, eighteen inches square.
4. The upper band, six by seven inches.
5. The cross bands, five by seven inches.
6. The cross arms, six by ten inches.
7. The swaarden, six by ten inches.
8. The axis, from six to eight inches.
9. The feller, six by eight inches of Elm wood.
10. The king beam, eleven by thirteen inches Fir wood.
11. The drawers under the mill, five by six inches.
12. The plate for the running of the truckle, three by sixteen inches.
13. The wooden knobs to the wheel of Ash.
14. The staves made of Box wood.
15. The six stampers, six inches square, of Ash.


PLATE VI.
An explanation of the section of the pounding-house.

Fig. 1. The under band, sixteen inches square.
2. The upper band, twelve by fourteen inches.
3. The band of the cap post, ten by twelve inches.
4. The springing band, six by seven inches.
5. The spaning plate, five by seven inches.
6. The first girder, six by seven inches.
7. The secong girder, nine by eleven inches.
8. The third girder, six by eight inches.
9. The uppermost girder, six by seven inches.
10. Top or cap, four by five inches.

The above account is the method of cultivating Madder in Zealand, where the best Madder is now produced; to this I shall add, what I have observed of the growing of Madder in other parts of Holland, as also the experience I have had of the growth of Madder in England, with an account of the method of planting it here.

In the year 1727, I observed a great quantity of this plant cultivated in Holland, between Helvoetsluys and the Brill; and it being the first time I had ever seen any considerable parcel of it, I was tempted to make some enquiries about its culture, and take some minutes of it down upon the spot, which I shall here insert, for the use of such as may have curiosity to attempt the culture of it.

In autumn they plough the land, where they intend to plant Madder in the spring, and lay it in high ridges, that the forst may mellow it; in March they plough it again, and at this season they work it very deep, laying it up in ridges eighteen inches asunder, and about a foot high; then about the beginning of April, when the Madder will begin to shoot our of the ground, they open the earth about their old roots, and take off all the side-shoots which extend themselves horixontally, just under the surface of the ground, preserving as much root to them as possible; these they transplant immediately upon the tops of the new ridges, at about a foot apart, observng always to do this when there are some showers, because then the plants will take root in a few days, and will require no water.

When the plants are growing, they carefully keep the ground hoed, to prevent the weeds from coming up between them; for if they are smothered by weeds, especially when young, it will either destroy or weaken them so much, that they seldom do well after. In these ridges they let the plants remain two seasons, during which time they keep the ground very clean; and at Michaelmas, when the tops of the plants are decayed, they take up the roots and dry them for sale. This is what I could learn of their method of cultivating this plant, to which I will subjoin a few observations of my own, which I have since made upon the culture of Madder in England.

The land upon which I have found Madder thive best, is a soft sandy loam, and if it has been in tillage some years, it will be better than that which is fresh broken up. This should have at least a depth of two feet and a half, r three feet of good earth, and must be quite clear from Couch, or the roots of any bad weeds; for as the roots of Madder should remain three years in the ground, so there there are any of those weeds which spread and multiply at their roots, they will intermix with the Madder roots, and in three years will have taken such possession of the ground, as to greatly weaken the Madder, and render it very troublesome to separate when the Madder is taken up.

The ground should be ploughed deep before winter, and laid in ridges to mellow; and if it is not too strong, there will be no necessity for ploughing it again, till just before the time of planting the Madder, when the land should be ploughed as deep as the beam of the plough will admit; and there should be men following the plough in the furrows, which should dig a full spit below the furrow, and turn it up on the top; by preparing the ground of this depth, the roots of the Madder will strike down, and be of greater length, in which the goodness of the crop chiefly consists. The land being thus prepared and made level, will be fit to receive the plants. The best time for planting of the Madder is about the middle or the latter end of April, according as the season is more or less forward, which must be determined by the young shoots; for when these are about two inches above the ground, they are in the best state for planting.

In the taking up of these shoots for planting, the ground should be opened with a spade, that they may be separated from the mother plants with as much root as possible; for if the roots are broken off, they will not succeed: these plants should be drawn up no faster than they are planted; for if they lie long above ground, they will shrink and their tops will wither, and then they often miscarry; therefore if they are brought from a distant place, there should be great care taken in the packing of them up for carriage; especial regard should be had not to pack them so close, or in so great quantity, as to cause them to neat, for that will soon spoil them; but if they are a little withered ny lying out of the ground, their roots should be set upright in water for a few hours, which will stiffen and recover them again.

In he planting of Madder, there are some who make the rows but one foot asunder, others one foot and a half, some two feet, and others who allow them three feet distance; I have made trial of the three last distances, and have found when the roots have been left three years in the ground, that three feet distance row from row is the best; but if it is taken up in two years, two feet asunder may do very well; and the distance in the rows, plant from plant, should be one foot, or a foot and a half.

If there is no danger of the ground being too wet in winer, the plants may be planted on the level ground; but if on he contrary, the ground should be raised in ridges where each row of plants is to be fet, that their roots may not reach the water in winter, for if they do, it will stop their downright growth; and this is the reason why the Dutch, who plant Madder in the Low Countries, raise their ridges so high as two or three feet; and in Zealand, where the ground is drier, they raise the beds four or five inches above the intervals, that the wet may drain off from the beds where the Madder is planted.

The method of planting is as follows: viz. the ground being made smooth, a line is drawn across it to mark out the rows, that they may be strait, for the more convenient cleaning, and for the better digging or ploughing of the ground betwen the rows; then with an iron-shod dibble, holes are made, at the distance which the plants are to stand from each other. The depth of the holes must be in proportion to the length of the roots of the plants, which must be planted the same depth they had been while they were upon the mother plants; for if any part of the root is left above ground, the sun and winds will dry them, which will retard the growth of the plants; and whould any part of the green be buried in the ground, it will not be so well; though of the two, the latter will be less prejudicial, especially if there is not too much of the green buried. When the plants are put into the holes, the earth should be preffed close to them to secure them from being drawn out of the ground, for crows and rooks frequently draw the new plants out of the ground before they get new roots, where there is not this care taken: so that in two or three days, I have known half the plants on a large piece of land destroyed by these birds.

If there happens to be some showers of rain fall in a day or two after the plants are planted, it will be of great service to them, for they will presently put out new roots, and become strong; so that if dry weather should afterward happen, they will not be in so much danger of suffering thereby, as those which are later planted. There are some who, from a covetous temper of making most use of the ground, plant a row of Dwarf Peas or Kidney Beans between each row of Madder, and pretend that thereby the land is kept cleaner from weeds; but I am very certain the crop of Madder is injured thereby much more than the value of those things which grow between the rows, as I have experienced; therefore I advise those persons who plant Madder, never to sow or plant any thing between the rows, but to keep the Madder quite clean from weeds, or any other kind of vegetable.

In order to keep the ground thus clean, it should be scuffled over with a Dutch hoe, as soon as the young weeds appear. When a man can perform a great deal of this work in a day, and if it is done in dry weather, the weeds will die as fast as they are cut down; whereas, when the weeds are left to grow in the spring, so as to get strength, they are not so soon destroyed, and the expence of hoeing the ground then will be more than double; besides, there will be danger of cutting down some of the weaker plants with the weeds, if the persons employed to perform this work are not very careful; therefore it is much cheaper, as also better for the Madder, to begin this work early in the spring, and to repeat it as often as the weeds render it necessary; for by keeping the ground thus constantly clean, the Madder will thrive the better.

During the first summer, the only culture which the Madder requires, is that of keeping it clean in the manner before directed; and when the shoots or haulm of the plants decay in autumn, it should be raked off the ground; then the intervals between the rows should be either dug with a spade or ploughed with a hoeing plough, laying up the earth over the heads of the plants in a roundish ridge, which will be of great service to the roots. The Dutch cover the haulm of their Madder with earth, leacing it to rot upon the ground; this perhaps may be necessary in their country, to keep the frost out of the ground; but as I have never found that the severest winters in England have injured the Madder roots, there is not the same necessity for that practice here.

The following spring, before the Madder begins to shoot, the ground should be hoed and raked over smooth, that the young shoots may have no obstruction; and if there should be any young weeds appearing on the ground, it should be first scuffled over to destroy the weeds, and then raked over smooth; after this, the same care must be taken in the following summer to keep the ground clean; and if it is performed by the hoe plough, the earth of the intervals should be thrown up against the side of the ridges, which will earth up the roots, and greatly increase their strength; but before the ground of one interval is so hoed, the haulm of the plants should be turned over to the next adjoining interval; and if they are permitted so to lie for a fortnight or three weeks, and then turned back again on those intervals which were hoed, observing first to scuffle the ground to destroy any young weeds which may have appeared since the stirring of the ground; then the alternate intervals should be ploughed in like manner, turning the earth up against the opposite sides of the roots; by this method the intervals will be alternately plouged, and the plants earthed up, whereby the ground will be kept clean, and stirred, which will greatly promote the growth of the roots; and by this method the superficial shoots will be subdued, and the principal roots greatly strengthened. The folloring autumn the ground should be cleared of the haulm and weeds, and the earth raised in ridges over the roots, as in the foregoing year.

The third spring the roots will furnish a great supply of young plants; buut before these appear, the ground should be cleaned and raked smooth, that the shoots may have no obstruction to their coming up; and when the young plants are fit to take off, it should be perdormed with care, always taking off those which are produced at the greatest distance from the crown of the other plants, because those are what rob them most of their nourishment, and the wounds made by separating them from the old roots are not near so hurtful as those near the crown; for the stripping off too many of the shoots there, will retard the growth of the plants.

The culture of the Madder in the third summer must be the same as the second; but as the roots will then be much stronger, the earth should be laid up a little higher to them at the times when the ground is cleaned; and if all the distant superficial shoots, which come up in the intervals are hoed or ploughed off, it will be of service to strengthen the larger downright root; and as the haulm will now be very strong and thick, the frequent turning it over from one interval to another will prevent its rotting; for if it lies long in the same position, the shoots which are near the ground, where there will be always more or less damp, and being covered with the upper shoots, the air will be excluded from them, which will cause them to rot, for the shoots of Madder are naturally disposed to climb up any neightbouring support; and in places where they have been supported, I have seen them more than ten feet high; but the expence of staking the

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take nortice of, left they should have so much weight as to prevent many persons from engaging in it. The first which has been generally started is, that the land in this country is not so well adapted fr growing Madder as that in Holland: to which I can with truth affirm, that there are vast tracys of land here much better adapted for producing Madder than the best land in Zealand; and from the experience which I have had of its growth, will produce a greater crop. Another objection which I have heard, was the labour in Holland being cheaper than in England. The Dutch will always undersell us, so consequently will maintain this brand of tradde; but this is certainly a great mistake: for though the labourers employed in cultivating Mdder may not earn so great wages as is generally paid in England, sure I am, that the difference between an expert English labourer and that of the best Dutchman, in the plouging, hoeing, planting, &c. of Madder, is much greater than that of their pay; for I am sure a good English gardener or ploughman will do more business, and perform it better, in four days, than the best workman in Holland can do in six. What I now say is greatly within compass, from my own knowledge; so that, supposing we were to proveed in the same manner now practised by the Dutch, this could be no objection to the cultivating of Madder; but we shall soon find way of performing the most laborious part, at much less expence, but means of the hoeing plough, which may be used to great adcantage in the cultivation of Madder, whereby the expence will be much lessened; and, when once this is well established in England, there can be no doubt but that great improvements will be made both in the culture and method of preparing the commodity for use.

There has been objections made against farther trials of growing Madder, because some who have engaged in it have not succeeded; but in answer to this, it must be observed, that their ill success was owing to a want of skill. Some of them continued to plant repeated crops of Madder on the same spot of ground, till the roots became so small, as scarce to pay the expence of digging up; and here it is proper to observe, that Madder should not be planted on the same land, till after an interval of seven or eight years; during which interval the ground may be sown with any sort of grain, or kitchen vegetables, which it will produce to great advantage after Madder, because the land will be wrought so deep. The Dutch always sow grain upon their Madder ground in the intervals of four years, and have great crops from it; and they are obliged, from the scarcity of land fit for this purpose, to plant the same ground after an tinterval of four years; but, as we are not under the same necessity, it will be much better to stay eight years, for the roots of Madder are very similar to those of Asparagus, and draw much the same, nourishment from the ground; and it is well known that, when Asparagus roots are dug up, which have been growing three years, it will not thrive equal to that which is planted on ground upon which Asparagus has not grown for several years; and this is always found to be the cafe even in kitchen-gardens near London, where, by the well working and frequent dunging the ground, it may be supposed changed in three or four years, more than the fields can possibly be in eight or ten.

Madder should not be planted in very rich dunged land, for in such there will be very large haulm, but the roots will not be in proportion; and, where there is much dung or sea-coal ashed, the Madder roots will be of a darker colour, as it will also where it is cultivated in the smoke of London, which is likewise the cafe with Liquorice; for that which grows in a sandy loam at a distance from London, is always much brighter and clearer than that which grows in the rich lands in the neighbourhood of London.

In Zealand the Madder ir principally cultivated by the kitchen-gardeners, who, in the change of their crops, do every fourth or fifth year plant the Madder upon the same ground again, in like manner as the gardeners in their neighbourhood od London plant Asparagus for forcing in winter upon hot-beds. And as they have public kilns in Holland for drying of the Madder roots, so they know the expence of manufacturing the commodity for sale, which renders the cultivation sure and easy to them.

If the cultivation of Madder is carried on properly in England, it will employ a great number of hands from the time harvest is over, till the spring of the year, whiich is generally a dead time for labourers and hereby the parished may be eased of the poor's rate, which is a consideration worthy of public attention.

Gardeners Dictionary: Rhamnus


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)


RHAMNUS. Tourn. Inst. R. H. 593. tab. 633. Lin. Gen. Plant. 235. the Buckthorn; in French, Nerprun.

The CHARACTERS are,
It hath male and female flowers on different plants; these have no empalements according to some, nor petals according to others. The cover of the sexes is funnel-shaped, and cut into four parts at the top, which spread open. The male flowers have five stamina the length of the tube, terminated by small summits. The female flowers have a roundish germen, supporting a short style, crowned by a quadrisid stigma. The germen afterward becomes a roundish berry, inclosing four hard seeds.

This genus of plants is ranged in the first section of Linnæus's fifth class, which contains those plants whose flowers have five stamina and one style; but according to his system, it should be placed in the first section of his twenty-second class; but as he has joined to this enus the Frangula, Paliurus, Alaternus, and Ziziphus of Tournefort, so to comprehend them all he has placed them in his fifth class, which had much better be kept separate.

The SPECIES are,

1. RHAMNUS (Catharticus) floribus axillaribus, foliis ovato-lanceolatis serratis nervosis. Buckthorn with flowers proceeding from the sides of the branches, and oval, spear-shaped, sawed, veined leaves. Rhamnus catharticus. C. B. P. 478. Purging or common Blackthorn.

2. RHAMNUS (Minor) floribus axillaribus, foliis ovatis acuminatis nercosis integerrimis. Buckthorn with flowers proceeding from the sides of the branches, and oval, acute-pointed, entire leaves, having veins. Rhamnus catharticus minor. C. B. P. 478. Smaller purging or common Buckthorn, commonly called Dwarf Rhamnus.

3. RHAMNUS (Longifolia) foliis lanceolatis, floribus axillaribus. Buckthorn with spear-shaped leaves, and flowers growing from the sides of the stalks. Thamnus catharticus minor, folio longiori. Tourn. Inst. 593. Smaller purging Buckthorn with a longer leaf.

4. RHAMNUS (Africana) foliis cuneiformibus confertis perennantibus, floribus corymbosis alaribus. Buckthorn with wedge-shaped evergreen leaves growing in clusters, and flowers growing in roundish bunches from the sides of the branches. Rhamnus Afer, folio pruni longiore subrotundo, flore candicante, spinis longissimis. Boerh. Ind. alt. 212. African Buckthorn with a longer roundish Plum leaf, a very white flower, and long spines.

The first sort grows naturally in the hedges in many parts of England; it rises with a strong woody stalk to the height of twelve or fourteen feet, sending out many irregular branches; the young shoots have a smooth, grayish, brown bark, and are armed with a few short thorns. The leaves stand upon pretty long slender foot-stalks; they are of the oval spear-shape, about two inches and a half long, and one and a quarter broad, slightly sawed on their edges, of a dark green on their upper side, but of a pale or light green on their under, having a pretty strong midrib, and several veins proceeding from it, which diverge toward the sides, but meet again near the point of the leaf. The flowers come out in clusters from the side of the branches; those of the male have as many stamina as there are divisions in the petal; those of the female have a roundish germen, which afterward turns to a pulpy berry of a roundish form, inclosing four hard seeds. It flowers in June, and the berries ripen in autumn.

The berries of this are used in medicine; for with them there is a purging syrup made, called Syrupus è spina cervina, or syrup of Buckthorn; which is reckoned a good medicine to purge watery humours, and against the dropsy, jaundice, itch, and all manner of eruptions on the skin: of late years, the people who supply the market with these berries, have mixed several other sorts with them, so that when the syrup is made by persons who have not skill to distinguish the berries, it is often very bad; so that two ounces of the syrup of one shop will not purge so well as one from another, which has brought this medicine into disrepute with many persons. These berries may be easily known by examining their seeds, to see if there are four in each, and also by rubbing the juice upon white paper, which it will stain of a green colour.

From the juice of these berries is made a very fine green colour, called by the French Verd-de-vessie, which is much esteemed by the painters in miniature. The second sort grows naturally in the south of France; this is and humble shrub, seldom rising more than three feet high, sending out many irregular branches, covered with a dark brown bark, garnished with oval leaves ending in acute points; they are about three quarters of an inch long, and half an inch broad in the widest part, which is near the base; they are of a yellowish green, and a thin consistence, having several veins diverging from the midrib toward the sides, which converge again toward the point. The flowers come out upon small cursons or spurs on the side of the branches, each standing upon a separate short foot-stalk; they are of a yellowish herbaceous colour, having short swelling tubes, and are cut into five acute segments at the top, which spread open; they appear in June, but are not succeeded by berries here.

Mr. Dy Hamel de Monceaux, of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, says, that the fruit of this species gathered green is the Grain d'Avignon, or Avignon berries, which are used in dyeing of yellow; but I have been assured by a gentleman of skill, who resided long in the south of Grance, that the Avignon berries were the fruit of narrow-leaved Alaternus; and in order to be better satisfied of the truth, I gathered a quantity of the berries of the narrow-leaved Alaternus before they were full ripe, and carried them to two eminent dealers in this commodity, and asked them if they knew what these berries were; they both assured me, after making trial of them, that they were Avignon berries, and if I had a large quantity of them, they would purchase them all: therefore, as the Alarenus before-mentioned is one of the most common shrubs in the south of France, from whence the Avignon berries are brought, we may suppose Mr. du Hamel has been ill informed.

The third sort grows naturally in Spain and Italy; this grows to a larger size than the second, but not so high as the first. The branches are stronger, and are armed with a few long spines; the leaves are like those of the wild Plum, but are a little longer and narrower; the flowers are small, of a yellowish colour, and are produced from the side of the branches; these appear in June, but are not succeeded by berries in this country.

The first sort is so common in the hedges in many parts of England, that it is seldom cultivated in gardens; this rises easily from seeds, if they are sown in autumn soon after the berries are ripe; but, if they are kept out of the ground till spring, the plants will not come up till the year after; these will require no particular treatment, but may be managed in the same way as young Crabs, or any other hardy deciduous tree; it may also be propagated by cuttings or layers. If the young shoots are layed in autumn, when they may be taken off from the plants, and either planted in a nursery to remain there to get strength for a year or two, or they may be planted where they are designed to remain. This is not so proper for hedges as the Hawthorn or Crab, so those should be preferred to it. The second and third sorts are preserved in botanic gardens for the sake of variety; but as they are not beautiful, few persons cultivate them here, especially as these do not produce fruit in England. They may be propagated either by laying down the young branches in autumn, or by planting the cuttings in the spring, befode the buds begin to swell. These will put out roots in the same manner as the common sort, and may be treated in the same way, for they are both hardy plants, and will thrive in the open air. The fourth sort grows naturally at the Cape of Good Hope, so is too tender to thrive in the open air in England; but if it is placed in a common green-house with Myrtles, Olives, and the hardier kinds of exotic plants in winter, and removed to the open air in summer, it will thrive very well. This rises with a shrubby stalk to the height of four or five feet, sending out many side branches, which, when young, are covered with a green bark, but as they advance, the bark changes to a dark brown; they are armed with a few long slender thorns, and garnished with wedge-shaped leaves, which come out in clusters at each joint, four, five, or six rising from the same point, which differ in size, the largest being about an inch long, and three quarters broad, and the smallest about hald as large; they are of a deep green, and continue all the year; their points are broad and rounded, growing narrower to their base, sitting close to the branches. The flowers are produced on the side of the branches at each joint; they are collected into roundish bunches, standing upon foot-stalks an inch long; they are white, and have short tubes; their upper part is cut into five acute segments, which spread open in form of a star. These appear in June, at which time the whole shrub seems covered with flowers, so as to make a fine appearance; and as the leaves continue green all the year, it deserves a place where there is a conveniency to shelter them in winter.

This sort has not as yet produced seeds in England, but it may be easily propagated by cuttings, which sould b e planted in pots filled with loamy earth the beginning of April. The pots should be plunged into a moderate hot-bed, and the cuttings should be shaded from the sun in the heat of the day; they must also be sprinkled with water two or three times a week, according as the earth in the pot dries, but they must by no means have too much wet. These cuttings will put out roots in two month, and soon after will begin to make shoots at the top; then they must have a large share of air admitted to them, and gradually inured to bear the open air, into which they should be soon after removed; and when they are well hardened, they may be shaken out of the pots, and separated, being careful to preserve a ball of earth to each, and plant them into single pots filled with soft loamy earth, placing them in the shade till they have taken new root; then they may be removed into a sheltered situation, where they amy remain till the forst comes on in autumn, at which time they must be housed, and treated in the same way as the other hardier kinds of green-house plants.

Gardeners Dictionary: Reseda


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)


RESEDA. Tourn. Inst. R. H. 423. tab. 238. Lin. Gen. Plant. 535. Bastard-rocket.

The CHARACTERS are,
The empalement of the flower is of one leaf, cut into several segments almost to the bottom, and is permanent. The petals of the flower are unequal, and generally trisid, having a honey gland on heir base the length of the empalement. The honey glands are plain, erect, and produced from the upper side of the receptacle, between the stamina and the place of the upper petal, joining with the base of the petals, dilating from the sides. It hath fifteen or sixteen short stamina, terminated by erect obtuse summits; and a gibbous germen sitting upon very short styles, crowned by a single stigma. The germen afterward becomes a gibbous angular capsule of one cell, with an aperture between the styles, filled with kidney-shaped seeds fastened tot he angles of the capsule.

This genus of plants is ranged in the third section of Linnæus's eleventh class, which includes those plants whose flowers have from eleven to nineteen stamna, and three styles.

The SPECIES are,

1. RESEDA (Vulgaris) foliis pinnatis, foliolis integris alternis floribus tetragynis. Bastard-rocket with winged leaves, whose lobes are entire, placed alternate, and have four styles to the flower. Reseda vulgaris. C. B. P. 100. Common Bastard-rocket.

2. RESEDA (Crispa) foliis omnibus trifidis, inderioribus pinnatis. Hort. Cliff. 213. Bastard.rocket with all the leaves trifid, and the lower ones winged. Reseda crispa Gallica. Bocc. Sic. 77. French curled Bastard-rocket.

3. RESEDA (Phyteuma) foliis integris trilobisque, calycibus sexpartitis maximis. Hort. Cliff. 412. Bastard-rocket with entire and trisid leaves, and the largest empalement to the flower. Reseda minor vulgaris. Tourn. Inst. R. H. 413. Lesser common Bastard-rocket.

4. RESEDA (Undata) floribus trigynis, tetragynisque calycibus quinquepartitis, foliis pinnaris undulatis. Lin. Sp. Plant 644. Bastard-rocket with trisid and quadrisid flowers, whose empalements are cut into five parts, and winged waved leaves. Reseda minor alba, dentatis foliis. Barrel. Icon. 588. Smaller white Bastard-rocket with indented leaves.

5. RESEDA (Alba) foliis pinnatis, floribus tetragynis, calycibus sexpartitis. Lin. Sp. Plant. 645. Hort. Upsal. 149. Bastard-rocket with winged leaves, flowers having four styles, and an empalement cut into six parts. Reseda foliis calcitrapæ flore albo. Mor. Hort. R. Bl. Bastard-rocket with Star Thistle leaves, and a white flower.

6. RESEDA (Odorata) foliis integris trilobisque, calycibus florum æquantibus. Lin. Sp. Plant. 646. Bastard-rocket with entire three-lobed leaves, whose empalement is equal with the petals of the flower, commonly called sweet Reseda , or Mignonette d'Egypt.

7. RESEDA (Canescens) foliis subulatis sparsis. Sauv. Monsp. 41. Bastard-rocket with awl-shaped leaves placed thinly. Sesamoides flore albo, foliis canescentibus. Tourn Inst. R. H. 424. Bastard Sesamum with a white flower and hoary leaves.

8. RESEDA (Luteola) foliis lanceolatis integris, calycibus quadrisidis. Lin. Sp. Plant. 448. Bastard-rocket with spear-shaped entire leaves, and quodrisid empalements. Luteola herba salicis folio. C. B. P. 100. Dyer's Weed, or wild Woad, by some called Weld.

The first sort grows naturally in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. This is a biennial plant, which flowers and seeds the secon year, and perishes soon after. The root is long, white and a little ligneous; the leaves are unequally winged, and the lobes are entire; the stalks are channeled, rising two feet high, garnished with leaves like those below, but are smaller, and are terminated by long loose spikes of pale yellow flowers, composed of several unequal petals; the two upper are the largest, the side ones less, and the lower are so small as to be scarce conspicuous; they are all of a singular figure, and appear as if one leaf came out of two others. In the middle are situated many stamina terminated by yellow summits, and at the bottom a three-cornered germen, which afterward turns to a three-cornered seed-vessel, having three or four holes at the top, and filled with black seeds.

The second sort grows naturally in chalky land in many parts of England, and has been supposed to be the common sort, it being our common sort in England, but the former is more common abroad, and is so titled; the lower leaves of this are winged, and every lobe is cut into three small parts, and are curled, having some small indentures on their edges. The stalks rise about the same height as those of the former, and are terminated by longer and looser spikes of flowers; the flowers are paler and approach to a white. This flowers in June, and the seeds ripen in September.

The third sort grows naturally in the south of France and Italy; this is an annual plant, which has generally a single fleshy tap-root running deep in the ground, sending out several trailing stalks neat a foor long, which divide into smaller branches, garnished with small leaves, some of which are wedge-shaped and entire, others are cut into three obtuse segments. The ends of the branches are terminated by loose spikes of flowers, standing upon pretty long foot-stalks. The empalement of the flower is large, divided into six segments almost to the bottom; the flowers are white, and shaped like those of the other sorts. It flowers in July, and the seeds ripen in autumn.

The fourth sort grows naturally in Italy and Spain; this is a biennial plant, the lower leaves are unequally winged, some of the intermediate lobes or segments being much less than the others, and of different shapes. The stalks rise two feet and a half high, garnished with smaller difformed winged leaves, indented on their edges. The flowers are produced in slender loose spikes at the top of the stalks; they are small and white, of the same shape with the others, appearing in June, and the seeds ripen in September.

The fifth sort grows naturally in the south of France; it is a biennial plant; the lower leaves are large, winged, and composed of many narrow lobes or segments placed alternate, which are of a grayish colour; the stalks rise two feet and a half high, and are garnished with the like leaves, which diminish in their size to the top; the stalks are terminated by shorter and thicker spikes of flowers than either of the former, which are white, and shaped like those of the other species. It flowers in June, and the seeds ripen in August.

The sixth sort is supposed to grow naturally in Egypt; the seeds of this were sent me by Dr. Adrian Van Royen, the late professor of botany at Leyden. The root of this plant is composed of many strong fibres, which run deep in the ground, from which come out several stalks about a foot long, which divide into many small branches; these are garnished with oblong leaves, some of which are entire, and others are divided into three parts; they are about two inches long, and three quarters of an inch broad in the middle, ending in oval points, of a deep green colour. The flowers are produced in loose spikes at the end of the branches; they stand upon pretty long footstalks, have large empalements, and are of an herbaceous white colour, and smell very like fresh Raspberries, which occasions its being much cultivated in the English gardens. This plant is so like the third sort, as to be taken for the same by some, but the flowers of the third have no scent; so that those who have been imposed on, by having the seeds of the third sort sent them for this, have supposed the plant was degenerated.

The seventh sort grows naturally upon the mountains in Spain; this hath a perennial root, from which arise a few splender ligneous stalks a foot and a half high, which are thinly garnished with linear obtuse leaves, of a grayish colour; the upper part of the stalk is garnished for a good length with small, whitish, purple flowers, ranged in a very loose spike, sitting close to the stalk. These appear the latter end of May, and the seeds ripen in August.

The eight sort grows naturally upon dry banks and old walls in many parts of England, but is cultivated in some places for the dyer's use. This is now generally believed to be the plant, with which the ancient inhabitants of this island painted themselves, and not the Woad, as has been by some supposed; for the Dyer's Weed is a native here, whereas the Woad has been since introduced into this country. This is a biennial plant; the root is composed of a dew ligneous fibres; the leaves are four inches long, and half an inch broad, entire, and ending in obtuse points; these the first year spread circularly near the ground, and have some gentle wacings on their edges; the stalks rise three feet high, and are garnished with leaves of the same shape with those at bottom. They are terminated by long loose spikes of yellowish dflowers, which appear the latter end of June, and the seeds ripen in September.

The five sorts first mentioned, and also the seventh, are seldom cultivated in gardens except for the sake of variety, having very little beauty to recommend them, and being of no use; but whoever has a mind to have them, need only sow their seeds in autumn, and when the plants come up, if they are thinned and kept clean from weeds, it is all the culture they require; and if their seeds are permitted to scatter, the plants will come up in plenty, and sometimes become troublesome weeds.

The seeds of the sixth sort should be sown on a moderate hot-bed in March, and when the plants are strong enough to transplant, they should be pricked out upon another moderate hot-bed to bring them forward; but they should have a large shade of air in warm weather, otherwise they will draw up weak. About the latter end of May the plants may be planted out, some into pots, to place near the apartments, and others into warm borders, where they may remain to flower and seed. Fot the plants which grow in the full ground, often produce more seeds than those which are in pots; but at the time when the seed-vessels begin to swell, the plants are frequently infested with green catepillars, which, if they are not destroyed, will eat off all the seed-vessels.

If the seeds of this plant are sown on a bed of light earth in April, the plants will come up very well, and when they are not transplanted, will grow larger than those which are raised in the hot-bed, but they will not flower so early, and in cold seasons will scarce ripen their seeds. The plants may also be preserved through the winter in a green-house, where they will continue flowering most art of the year, but the second year they will not be so vigorous as the first.

The eight sort is the Weld, which is accounted a rich commodity for dyeing; where this is cultivated the seeds are commonly sown with Barley in the spring, and after the Barley is taken off the ground the Weld begins to make some progress, and the next season is pulled up for use. This has been long practised, and it will be difficult to prevail on the cultivaters of this plant to depart from their old customs; but if any persons will follow the directions hereafter given, I can from experience promise them much better success.

As the Weld will grow upon very poor soil, yet the crop will be in proportion to the goodness of the land; for upon very poor ground, the plants will not rise more than a foot high, whereas upon good ground I have measured them upward of three feet, and the stalks, leaves, &c. have been in proportion; so that the better the soil is upon which it is sown, the greater will be the produce.

The best way to cultivate this plant, is to sow it without any other crop; if the ground is ready by the beginning or middle of August, that will be a good season; the land should be well ploughed and harrowed fine, but unless it is very poor, it will not require dung; when the ground is well harrowed and made fine, the seeds should be sown; one gallon of the seeds is sufficient to sow an acre of land, for they are small. If rain falls in a little time after the seeds are sown, it will bring up the plants, and in two months time they will be so far advanced as to be easily distinguished from the weeds; then they should be hoed in the like manner as Turneps, always observing to do it in dry weather, for then the weeds will soon die after they are cut up; at this time the plants may be left about six inches distance; if this is done in dry weather, for then the weeds will soon die after they are cut up; at this time the plants may be left about six inches distance; if this is done in dry weather, and the work well performed, the plants will be clean from weeds till the spring; but as young weeds will come up in March, so if in dry weather the ground is hoed again, it may be performed at a small expence while the weeds are younf, and then they will soon decay; and if after this there should be many more weeds appear, it will be proper to hoe it a third time, about the beginning of May, which will preserve the ground clean till the weld is fit to pull. The best time to pull the Weld for use, is as soon as it begins to flower, though most people stay till the seeds are ripe, being unwilling to lose the seeds; but it is much better to sow a small piece of land with this seed, to remain for a produce of new seeds, than to let the whole stand for seed; because the plants which are permitted to stand so long will be much less worth for use, than the value of the seeds; besides, by drawing off the crop early, the ground may be sown with Wheat the same season; for the plants may be drawn up the latter end of June, when they will be in the greatest vigour, so will afford a greater quantity of the dye.

When the plants are pulled, they may be set up in small handfuls to dry in the field, and when it is dry enough, it may be tied up in bundles and housed dry, being careful to stack it loosely, that the air may pass between to prevent its fermenting.

That which is left for seeds should be pulled as soon as the seeds are ripe and set up to dry, and then beat out for use; for if the plants are left too long, the seeds will scatter. The usual price of the seed is ten shillings a bushel.

Gardeners Dictionary: Rainbow


Gardeners Dictionary:
containing The Best and Newest Methods of Cultivating and Improving The Kitchen, Fruit, Flower Garden, and Nursery; As also for Performing the Practical Parts of Agriculture: Including The Management of Vineyards, With the Methods of Making and Preserving Wine, According to the present Practice of The most skilful Vignerons in the several Wine Countries in Europe.

Together with Directions for propagating and improving, From real Practice and Experience, All sorts of Timber Trees.

The Eight Edition,
Revised and Altered according to the latest System of Botany; and Embellished with several Copper-Plates, which were not in some former Editions.

By Philip Miller, F. R. S.
Gardener tothe Worshipdul Company of Apothecaries, at their Botanic Garden in Chelsea, and Member of the Botanic Academy at Florence.

London,
Printed for the Author;
M. DCC. LXVIII.

(Lontoo 1768)

RAINBOW, a meteor in form of a particoloured arch or semicircle, exhibited in a rainy sky opposite the sun, by the rarefaction of his rays in the drops of falling rain.

The Rainbow, Sir Isaac Newton observes, never appears but where it rains in the sunshine, and may be represented artificially by contriving water to fall in little drops like rain, through which the sun shining exhibits a bow to the spectator's eye placed between the sun and the drops, especially if a dark body, e. g. a black cloth be disposed beyond the drops.

Anton. de Dominis first acoounted for the Rainbow in 1611, he explained at large how it was formed by refraction and reflexion of the sun-beams in spherical drops of water, and confirmed his explication by experiments made with glass globes, &c. full of water, wherein he was followed by Des Cartes, who mentioned and improved upon the account.

But as they were both in the dark as to the true origin of colours, their explications are defective, and in some things erroneous, which, it it is one of the glories of the Newtonian doctrine of colours, to supply and correct.

The folloring properties are ascribed to the Rainbow:

1. That it never appears but in a place opposite the sun; so that, when we look directly at it, the sun is always behind us.

2. That when the Rainbow appears, it always rains somewhere.

3. That hte constant order of the colours is, that the outmost is red or Saffron colour; the next is yellow; the third is green; the fourth or inmost is Violet or blue; but these colour are not equally bright.

4. Two Rainbows appear together, one of which is higher and larger than the other, and shews the aforesaid colours, but in an inverted order.

5. The Rainbow is always exactly round, but does not always appear equally entire, the upper or lower parts being very often wanting.

6. Its apparent breadth is always the same.

7. That those, who stand upon plain low ground, never see above half its circle, and oftentimes not so much.

8. The higher the sun is above the horizon, the less of the circle is seen, and, if there be no cloud to hinder, the lower, the more of it.

9. That never any Rainbow appears, when the sun is above 41 degrees 46 minutes high.

Lunar (Rainbow:) The moon also sometimes exhibits the phænomena of an iris or bow by the refraction of her rays in the drops of rain in the night time.

Aristotle says, he was the first that ever observed it; and adds, that it never happens, i. e. visible, but at the time of the full moon, her light at other times being too faint to reflect the sight. After two refractions and one reflecion, the lunar iris has all the colours of the solar very distinct and pleasant, only faint, in comparison of the other, both from the different intensity of the rays, and the different disposition of the medium.

Marine (Rainbow) is a phænomenon sometimes observed in a much agitated sea, when the wind, sweeping part of the tops of the waves, carries them aloft, so that the sun's rays falling upon them, are refracted, &c., as in a common shower, and paint the colours of the bow.

F. Bourzes, in the Philosophical Transactions, observes that the colours of the Marine Rainbow are less lively, distinct, and of less duration, than those of the common bow; that there are scarce above two colours distinguishable, a dark yellow on the side next the sun, and a pale green on the opposite side. But these bows exceed as to number, there being sometimes twenty or thirty seen together; they appear at noon-day, and in a position opposite to that of the common bow, i. e. the concave side is turned upwards, as indeed it is necessary it should be, from what may be said in accounting for the appearance of the solar bow.