containing over 6400 receipts embracing thorough information, in plain language, applicable to almost every possible industrial and domestic requirement
William B. Dick
Dick & Fitzgerald, New York 1884.
204. Sky Blue.
Work for 30 minutes in a bath containing 8 ounces argol, 1 pound alum, and 1 gill indigo extract (see No. 99); wash out and dry. The shade of blue will depend on the quantity of indigo extract used. For other shades of blue see Index.
205. Pigeon Blue.
Work for 40 minutes in 2 ounces chrome (bichromate of potash), 4 ounces alum, and 1 ounce tartar; wash out in cold water, and then work for 30 minutes in another bath made up with 3 pounds logwood; lift, and add 1 ounce verdigris; work for 15 minutes, wash and dry.
206. Apple Green.
Work for 30 minutes in a bath with one ounce chrome and 1 ounce alum; wash through cold water, then work for 30 minutes in another bath with 2 pounds fustic and 8 ounces logwood; wash and dry. Different proportions of the materials used will produce different shades.
207. Green.
Work for 15 minutes in 5 pounds fustic, 2 ounces argol, and 5 ounces alum; lift, and add ½ gill of indigo extract (see No. 99); work for 30 minutes and dry. More or less indigo extract make the green bluer or yellower, as required.
208. Fast Green.
First dye a blue in the indigo vat (see No. 130) according to the depth of the green required; then work for an hour info. bath with 4 pounds fustic and 2 pounds alum; dry out.
209. Olive.
Work for an hour in a bath made up with 10 ounces hustle, 8 ounces logwood, 4 ounces madder, and 2 ounces peachwood; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas in solution; work for 30 minutes and dry.
210. Wine Color.
Work for an hour in a bath with 4 pounds cudbear, and dry. For a darker shade use more cudbear. If the tint be desired bluer, add, after 30 minutes working, 1 gill ammonia; if a redder tint is wanted, add a wine-glassful of hydrochloric acid; but if this last be used, the goods must be washed out before drying.
211. Light Violet.
Work for an hour in a bath with 4 ounces cudbear, 4 ounces logwood, 2 ounces barwood or camwood, and 2 ounces peachwood; lift, and add 2 ounces alum in solution, work for 30 minutes and dry.
212. Lilac or Puce.
Work in a bath for one hour with 10 ounces logwood, 1 ounce camwood and 8 pounds cudbear; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas in solution; work for half an hour and dry.
213. Brown Drab.
Work for 30 minutes in a bath with 2 ounces ground madder, 1 ounce peachwood, 2 ounces logwood, and 6 ounces fustic; lift, and add 3 ounces copperas in solution; mix well and work the goods for 30 minutes more; then wash and dry. The shade can be adjusted to suit, varying the quantities and proportions of the dye-woods.
214. Properties of dye-woods.
Peachwood reddens, madder gives the drab tint, fustic supplies yellowness, and logwood induces a slate hue.
215. Stone Drab.
Work the goods for 20 minutes in a bath containing 1 ounce peachwood or limawood, 2 ounces logwood and ounce fustic; lift, and add 1 ounce copperas in solution; stir well and work in this for 30 minutes; lift out and expose to the air for a short time; wash and dry. Different shades are made by varying the quantities of the dye-woods. (See last receipt.)
216. Slate.
Work for half an hour in a bath with 8 ounces logwood and 1 ounce fustic; lift, and add 1 ounce alum and ½ ounce copperas in solution; work for half an hour; wash and dry. For a bluer tint, use less alum and more copperas; for more purple, use less fustic and more alum, &c.
217. Blue.
Dyeing woolens blue is performed by dipping in the blue vat (see No. 130), and then exposing to the air, repeating the operation till the desired depth of color is obtained.
218. Blue Purple.
100 pounds wool are first dipped a light blue in the vat, and well rinsed. Then take a stone pot, put in 3 pounds tartar, 3 pounds feathered tin, 5 pounds blue vitriol, and 20 pounds muriatie acid; heat all in a sand bath until dissolved.
From this mordant take 10 pounds in a suitable kettle; add 5 pounds tartar to it, stir it well and enter the wool at 170° Fahr.; let it boil for 1 hour; take it out, cool, and let it lay for 24 hours. Then boil out 20 pounds good logwood for 1 hour in fresh water; cool off the kettle to 150° Fahr., enter the wool, and handle it well for an hour, then heat it up to 185° Fahr., but do not let it boil; let it go for 1 hour more, when it will be a dark purple. This color stands the sun remarkably well, perhaps owing to the fact that there is not any alum or sulphuric acid used, except that contained in the blue vitriol.
219. Blue Purple, Fast Color
100 pounds of wool are first dipped in the blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds alum, and 3 pounds half-refined tartar, for 1½ hours the wool taken out, cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh water 8 pounds powdered cochineal for a few minutes; cool the kettle to 170° Fahr.; handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, in which time let it boil for hour, when it is ready to cool, rinse, and dry. By coloring first with cochineal, as above, and finishing in the blue vat, the fast purple, or dahlia, so much admired in German broadcloths, will be produced.
220. Royal Blue Dye for Woolen Goods.
Woolens may be dyed different shades of blue with nitrate of iron, observing the general rule that woolens must be worked at a boiling beat.
To dye 5 pounds of woolen goods — work for 20 minutes in a bath with 1 pound ferrocyanide of potassium, and lift; then take ½ pint nitrate of iron and add to it 1 ounce crystals of tin (or 1 pint chloride of tin); stir well for a few minutes and then add this mixture to the bath, and work the goods in this for 30 minutes; wash out and dry. For various shades of color, increase or diminish the quantities in proportion.
Ei kommentteja :
Lähetä kommentti