containing over 6400 receipts embracing thorough information, in plain language, applicable to almost every possible industrial and domestic requirement
William B. Dick
Dick & Fitzgerald, New York 1884.
191. Preparation and Dyeing of Woolens.
To prepare new woolen goods for dyeing, the cloth or yarn (if the latter, it is first banded with twine into spindles, see No. 122,) is steeped over night in soap lye, and then scoured through clean soap to remove all oil or grease that may be upon the wool. Instead of soap, a scouring mixture may be prepared with 1 pound soft soap and 1 pound common soda (or ½ pound soda-ash), in 10 gallons water.
Goods to be re-dyed must first be steeped and scoured in soap and soda. If the remaining color be unequal or dark, the goods must be worked for a short time in a sour, made by dissolving 2 ounces bisulphate of potassa an each gallon of water used. Woolen goods are always dyed hot, as near boiling point as possible; this necessitates the use of boilers, which should be of copper, or copper and tin, as iron will not answer the purpose. The dye-stuffs are generally put in the boiler, and the goods worked with it, but it is cleaner to make decoctions (see No. 94), and use the clear liquor. All washings are to be in cold water unless otherwise specified. The quantities given in the following receipts are for dyeing 10 pounds of woolen goods, either cloth or yarn, unless otherwise specified.
192. Black.
Work for 20 minutes in a bath with 8 ounces camwood; lift, and add 8 ounces copperas; work 20 minutes more, then withdraw the fire from the boiler, and submerge the goods in the liquor over night, then wash out. Work for an hour in another bath containing a decoction of 5 pounds logwood and 1 pint chamber lye; lift, and add. 4 ounces copperas; work for 30 minutes longer, wash and dry.
193. Brown.
Work for an hour in a bath made up with 2 pounds fustic, 2 pounds madder, 1 pound peachwood, and 4 ounces of logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas; work for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
194. Brown Dye.
The different shades of this dye vary from pale yellow and reddish brown up to very dark brown, almost black, every shade of which, however, may be produced, as the taste of the workman may dictate, by mixtures of reds and yellows with blues and blacks, or by simple dyes, which at once impart a brown, — as catechu, walnut rinds, or oxide of manganese.
Boil the cloth in a mordant of alum and common salt dissolved in water, then dye it in a bath of logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added. The proportion of alum should be 2 ounces, and of salt 1 ounce, to every pound of cloth.
Or boil the goods in a mordant of alum and sulphate of iron, then rinse them through a bath of madder. The tint depends on the relative proportions of the alum and copperas; the more of the latter, the darker will be the dye. The joint weight of the two should not exceed 1/8 of the weight of the wool. The best proportions are 2 parts of alum and 3 of copperas.
For other receipts for dyeing black and brown see Index.
195. Crimson.
Work in a bath for one hour with 1 pound cochineal paste, 6 ounces dry cochineal, 1 pound tartar, and 1 pint protochloride (single chloride) of tin; wash out and dry.
196. Scarlet.
Work for an hour in a bath with 1 pound tartar, 2 ounces dry cochineal, 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces fustic; wash out and dry.
197. Red.
Work for 30 minutes in a bath made up with 1 ounce chrome and 1 ounce alum; wash in cold water; then work for 30 minutes in another bath with three pounds peachwood or limawood; lift, and add. 1 ounce alum; work for 20 minutes; wash and dry.
198. Claret Red.
Work for an hour in 5 ounces camwood; lift, and expose the goods until well drained and cold; meanwhile, add to the camwood bath 4 ounces copperas, 2 ounces alum, and 8 ounces logwood; work the goods for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
199. Scarlet.
For every 100 pounds of fabric, boil, in a suitable kettle, 11 pounds ground Honduras cochineal, 5 pounds half-refined tartar or 3 pounds tartaric acid, 2 pounds oxalic acid, 1 pound tin crystals, 1½ pounds flavine, 10 pounds scarlet spirit (see below). After it has boiled for about fifteen minutes, cool the dye to 180° Fah., enter the goods, handle them quickly at first, and let them boil slowly for 1 hour, when they will be a good scarlet. Take them out, cool, and rinse in cold water. If it should happen that the wool or flannel shows some white hair, which is generally the case when new wool is used, then add 5 pounds of raw muriatic acid to the dye. This powerful agent will work wonders in scarlets, oranges, and pinks, as it tans the wool, which is perhaps a little greasy, and prevents the tin crystals from fastening too quickly to it, and thereby evener colors are obtained. This latter fact is very valuable, and not generally known.
Scarlet spirit is thus prepared: Take 16 pounds muriatic acid 22° Baumé, 1 pound feathered tin, 2 pounds water. The acid should be put in a stoneware pot, and the tin added, and allowed to dissolve; the mixture should be kept a few days before using.
200. Lac Scarlet.
Work for 30 minutes in a bath with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces sumach, and 2 pounds lac; lift, and add about a gill of bichloride of tin; work for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
201. Pink.
Work for an hour in a bath made up with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces alum, 1 pound cochineal paste, and 1 gill red spirits (see No. 108); wash in cold water and dry.
202. Yellow.
Work for 20 minutes in a bath of water containing 8 ounces tartar and 8 ounces alum; lift, and add 2 pounds bark, 8 ounces sumach, 8 ounces fustic, and 1 pint red spirits (see No. 108); work in this for 40 minutes, wash out and dry.
203. Orange.
Work for 40 minutes in 2 pounds sumach, 3 ounces dry cochineal, 1 pound fustic, 8 ounces tartar, and 1 pint red. spirits (see No. 108); wash and dry.
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