Dictionarium polygraphicum. Observations on Brown Colours.

Dictionarium Polygraphicum:
Or, The Whole Body of Arts Regularly Digested.
Vol I.
London: Printed for C. Hitch and C. Davis in Pater-noster Row, and S. Austen in St. Paul's Church Yard. MDCCXXXV.
1735
Spanish Brown is a dirty brown colour, but of great use; as also to shadow vermilion, or lay upon a dark ground behind a picture. You may shadow yellow berries with it in the darkest places, when you want lake or thick red-ink; but don't colour garments with it, unless it be old mens gowns.

Umber is a hair colour, and the best and brightest when it is calcin’d red hot; but it must not be burnt for colouring any hare, horse, dog, &c. but for other uses, it is best calcin'd or burnt; as for colouring posts, bodies of trees, timber-work, or any dark ground in a picture.
Use it not in garments, unless in old mens gowns or caps fanding together, which are not to be all of the same colour. But for distinction's or variety’s sake, you may use it unburnt in many cases.