containing over 6400 receipts embracing thorough information, in plain language, applicable to almost every possible industrial and domestic requirement
William B. Dick
Dick & Fitzgerald, New York 1884.
265. Weld Yellow.
Work the silk for an hour in a solution of alum, about 1 pound to the gallon; wring out and wash in warm water. Boil 2 pounds weld, strain the liquor, and work the silk in it for 30 minutes; and add 1 pint of the alum in solution, to the weld liquor; work the silk 10 minutes longer, wring out and dry.
This gives a rich lemon yellow; deeper shades are made by using more weld: straw and amber tints are obtained by the use of a little annotto.
266. Bark Yellow.
The process is the same as for dyeing weld yellow, using 2 pounds bark instead of the weld. The bark should be boiled in a bag.
267. Deep Rich Yellow.
Proceed as in the receipt for bark yellow; except that, after lifting, instead of a pint of the alum solution, 2 fluid ounces single chloride of tin. are added to the bark liquor; work 10 minutes, wash in water, and finish in a solution of white soap.
268. Gold and Straw.
To warm water containing white soap, add 2 pints annotto liquor (see No. 95), work in this 15 minutes; wash out, then work for 20 minutes in a decoction. of 8 ounces bark; lift, and add 1. fluid ounce red spirits (see No. 108); work 10 minutes more, wash out and finish. Different quantities of annotto and bark produce different shades.
269. Nankeen, Buff; &c.
Make a solution of soap in warm water, add to it 1 pint annotto liquor (see No. 95); work in this for 20 minutes, wring out and finish; a deeper shade is obtained by using more annotto.
270. Salmon, Flesh, &c.
Dye a nankeen according to the previous receipt, and add 2 ounces alum in solution to the cold water used for finishing.
271. Orange.
Work the silk for 15 minutes in a strong warm solution of annotto (see No. 95); wash out in warm water and dry.
272. Yellow Drab.
Into a vessel of warm water put 1 pint annotto liquor (see No. 95); work for 15 minutes and wash; then work for 15 minutes in a decoction of 4. pound sumach and 1 pound fustic; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas and 1 ounce alum in solution; work 10 minutes, wash in cold water and dry. A variety of drabs may be dyed in this way by varying the proportions of the sumach and fustic, and by introducing a little logwood or peachwood.
273. Drab.
Work for 15 minutes in a decoction of 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces fustic; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas; work for 20 minutes, and wash out in cold water; then work 15 minutes in a vessel of warm water containing ½ pint archil liquor, and dry.
274. Greenish Drab.
For a greenish drab, add to the archil liquor a decoction of 4 ounces fustic and ½ fluid ounce chemic. (See No. 162).
For a purple tint, use 1 ounce alum in solution, instead of the chemic.
275. Slate or Stone Color.
Work the silk for 30 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound sumach, 4 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces logwood; lift, and add a solution of 4 ounces copperas; work 30 minutes more, wash in cold water, and finish.
For different tints, vary the proportion of sumach, &c.
276. Common Green.
Steep for an hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to the gallon of water; wash in warm water, then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6 pounds fustic; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces indigo extract (see No. 99); work for 30 minutes more, wash and finish. For bluegreen use more indigo extract. Darker or lighter shades are dyed by using more or less in proportion of each ingredient.
277. Green.
Work for 40 minutes in a decoction of 4 pounds fustic; lift, and add 1 pound alum in solution, and 2 fluid ounces indigo extract (see No. 99); work in this for 30 minutes, wash out in cold water containing ½ pint alum solution, and finish.
278. Pea Green.
Steep for an hour in a solution of 8 ounces alum to the gallon of water, then wash out in warm water; boil 4 pounds ebony wood chips for an hour; take the clear liquor and work the silk in it for 30 minutes; lift, and add ½ fluid ounce indigo extract (see No. 99); work for 10 minutes; wash in cold water containing ½ pint alum solution, and dry.
The indigo extract must be added with caution, as too much will make the green too blue; it is safer to add less, and then, if necessary, lift, and add more.
279. Bottle Green.
Work for an hour in a solution of 2 pounds alum and 1 pound copperas; wash out in warm water, then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6 pounds fustic; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces indigo extract (see No. 99); work for 20 minutes, wash out and finish.
280. Bottle Green.
Proceed exactly as for common green (see No. 276) with the addition of 1 pound logwood to the 6 pounds fustic. The addition of a little more logwood makes a still deeper shade if required.
281. Olive.
Work the silk for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4 ounces alum; wash out in hot water, then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds rustle and 4 ounces logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces alum in solution; work 10 minutes, wash and dry.
A little chemic (see No. 162) added to the last wash water will induce a greener hue if required.
282. Light Olive.
Dye a light Prussian blue (see No. 256); then work for 20 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and pint archil liquor; lift, and add 1 ounce alum in solution; work 10 minutes and finish.
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