31.10.21

Giving a Crowfoot Colour to Paper Pulp.

Practical Magazine 19, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

The colour of the crowfoot is one of the most agreeable in paper manufacture, but it is also very difficult to obtain in all the richness and brilliancy of the flower's hue. As in the case of many other colours for paper, the operation requires to be divided into two parts.

With every 100 kilogrammes (220 lbs.) of dry pulp, the following process is observed: On the one hand, 12 kilogrammes (26½ lbs.) of acetate of lead are boiled separately in 36 litres (about 8 gallons) of water, and 4 kilogrammes (about 8¾ lbs.) of bichromate of potass in 20 litres (about 4½ gallons) of water on the other. When the salts are completely dissolved, the same quantity of cold water is added to each solution as was used before, it is stirred, and the solution of acetate of lead is poured into that of the bichromate, the whole being stirred as the mixing takes place. The mixture is used in two separate basins, or troughs, and produces the first colouring of the pulp.

Supposing, as is to be expected, a uniform tint has been obtained, 2 litres (about 3½ pints) of a yellow orange colour are added, which are prepared in the following manner: 25 litres (5½ gallons) of caustic soda lye, marking 20° Baumé, are taken, to which are added 10½ kilogrammes (23 lbs.) of acetate of lead, and 3½ kilogrammes (7½ lbs.) of bichromate of potass, mixed dry, the whole being boiled for half-an-hour. From this are taken the two litres mentioned above for the second colouring.

- La Gaceta Industrial, May 25, 1876.

24.10.21

A new Finishing Material for Cotton.

Practical Magazine 19, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

According to an article in the "Bulletin de Rouen" by M. J. J. HEILMANN, a new finishing material for cotton has been discovered in "haï-thao," or gelose, which is obtained from a species of alga or sea weed, occurring frequently in Cochin China and Mauritius. It appears in the form of coarse flat threads, which are hard and tough, and 30 centimetres (about a foot) long. It is without taste or smell, consists of a transparent colourless mass, and is covered with a net-work of opaque veins, in reality nothing but folds, which appear on drying the substance. It is not soluble in cold water, but only swells up. It does not dissolve below 167°Fahr., and then only partially. For complete solution it must be in boiling water at least ten minutes. Then all the flock disappears in the fluid, and a transparent, thin, dirty-white solution is obtained, which does not stick to the fingers. On cooling the haj-thao separates, like gelatine, as a yellow-greyish jelly, which is again dissolved by boiling. The jelly has neither an acid nor an alkaline reaction, and even after having been long kept, e.g., for eight days, shows no tendency to fermentation or putridity.

Thao can be dissolved in cold concentrated sulphuric acid, hydrochloric acid, or nitric acid, and will again separate from these solutions on the addition of water. Towards alkaline solutions it behaves in the same way as towards water. In alcohol, whether cold or boiling, it is perfectly insoluble. It is not softened but hardened by it, and after the evaporation of the alcohol is no longer transparent.

It appears from M. Heilmann's experiments, that it can be used as a finishing material for cotton only when boiling hot. If the watery solution gets cold, it must be boiled up again to be of any use. With a dilution of one part of thao in 300 of water, the solution begins to make itself perceptible on a textile fabric as a light finishing. If one part of thao to 100 of water be taken, the fabric acquires a rather strong but soft touch; it gains in body but not in stiffness. If this finishing material is compared with potato starch and dextrine, it is found that a dextrine finishing of 50 grammes (about 1¾ oz.) per litre (1¾ pint) gives goods less firmness than the one per cent. thao finishing, but one of 100 grammes (3½ oz.) per litre gives them more, while on the contrary 50 grammes of potato starch boiled in water produce greater stiffness.

Both the dextrine and the potato starch fill the threads less than the thao, and make the texture much drier and rougher. An addition of glycerine to the thao solution, even when some potato starch is mixed with it, produces a still softer and at the same time stronger finishing. The addition of a mineral finishing material, such as talc, pipe-clay, &c., gives the goods a greasy touch, and they feel much more tender and delicate than if treated with a decoction of dextrine or potato starch. Moreover, thao finishing continues on the texture in cold water, while dextrine and potato starch soften and dissolve in it. Thao should never be used without ultramarine, because it gives the cotton a yellow tinge. Even with ultramarine a greenish tinge is observable. Lastly, on checked goods it has the property of contracting them.

Heilmann comes to the conclusion that thao should be used only for fine fabrics, to which it is desired to give a soft and at the same time solid touch, but it is not suitable for taking the place of dextrine or potato starch where it is desired to give a heavy stiff finishing. The price also of this product must be considerably reduced before it can compete successfully with the other two substances.

To cover Brass and Copper with a bright coating of Zinc.

Practical Magazine 19, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Metallurgy.)

For this purpose, Prof. BÖTTGER, thirty years ago, recommended a concentrated solution of sal ammoniac, in which, at boiling heat, the articles to be coated were to be treated for some time. Later experiments have shown him that the same object may be more perfectly accomplished by employing, instead of the sal ammoniac, a fluid having a powerful electric reaction. For this purpose a solution of oxide of zinc and soda, or potash, is especially fitted. Such a solution may be easily obtained by treating zinc-dust, or a grey mixture of oxidized and metallic zinc, in great excess, with a concentrated solution of caustic potash, or caustic soda, for some time at boiling heat, and then plunging the articles to be coated with zinc in the boiling fluid. By the contact of the copper or brass articles, which act electro-negatively with regard to the zinc dust, the alkaline zinc solution is decomposed, and in a few minutes of continued heat the objects are seen to be covered with a bright coating of zinc.

It may be further remarked, that the formation of the so-called tombac, red metal, or Lyonese gold, can be effected at a temperature of 284°F. If an object covered with a thin coating of zinc is carefully heated (which is best done in olive oil) to the above temperature, the thin coating of zinc combines with the copper beneath to form the gold-coloured tombac. Nothing more is necessary than to plunge the object quickly in cold water, or any other suitable fluid, to cool it, as soon as the colour that is desired becomes visible.

- Gewerbehalle, May, 1876.

Manufacture of Picric Acid.

Practical Magazine 19, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Acids, Alkalies, and Salts.)

The plant Xanthorrhæa arborata, indigenous to Australia, which has been known for about a century, produces a resin known in commerce under the name of "yellow Botany Bay resin." This resin appears likely to answer well for the manufacture of picric acid, not only on account of its low price, but also because it yields a good return. To ascertain this, Herr Wolfsleben procured some of the pure resin and experimented upon it. Ten grammes (6½ dwt.s.) of the resin, pulverized, were put in a drinking-glass with 50 grammes (1¾ oz.) of crude nitric acid of specific gravity 1'16. This glass was covered with a bell glass, and the mixture put in digestion at a moderate temperature. The mass soon swelled up, and on the surface of the liquid was formed a deep brown crust, which required to be every now and then broken, and submerged with a glass stick. When, after three hours, the disengagement of ruddy vapours was found to cease, it was allowed to cool. Next day the bottom of the glass was found covered with a layer of crystals of an intense yellow colour, above which was a compact resinous mass of a brown-red colour. This mass was removed and again digested in 25 grammes (16 dwts.) of nitric acid, but it was found that this acid had now scarcely any effect, and there was no longer any formation of nitrous acid. Nor was there any separation of crystals by cooling, so that it was considered superfluous, so far as concerns the preparation of picric acid, to treat the resinous mass a second time with the acid. However; as in the present case the object was to lose as little as possible of the product sought, after the crystals of the first liquor had been collected, the second liquor was added to the mother-liquor before evaporating. The evaporation was carried on to dryness, the first crystals were added, and the nitric acid which might still adhere to them was expelled at 212° Fah. The final residue weighed 6½ grammes (100 grains troy), i. e. nearly two-thirds of the resin first put in. It was composed of yellow crystals with nothing amorphous, and some isolated crystals of oxalic acid. After the picric acid thus obtained had been again crystallized, to free it from this oxalic acid, it was found to weigh 5 grammes (3¼ dwts.). The resin in question is therefore well adapted for the purpose intended

.

- Polytechnisches journal.

A New Tanning Plant.

Practical Magazine 18, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

It is stated that for tanning purposes oak bark is surpassed by the Western tannin plant, Polygonum amphibitem, which grows abundantly in the Missouri valley. It contains 18 per cent. of tannin, or half as much again as the best bark, and at large establishments in Chicago where it is employed it is said to yield one-third more leather than could be obtained from the same quantity of bark by the same process of tanning. The leather is also tougher, more durable, of finer texture, and capable of receiving a higher polish. The plant being an annual, can be mown and stacked like hay.

23.10.21

Improvement in Bleaching Wool.

Practical Magazine 18, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Wool, after having been freed from grease, is bleached by the action of sulphurous acid gas as follows. An isolated chamber without chimney is selected, having a trap-door at the top, which can be open or shut at pleasure, and below a door about the height of a man, with two small openings at the corners to receive the sulphur pans. Poles about 3 yards long are placed across the chamber, and on them is laid the wet wool. To prevent the volatilised flour of sulphur from settling on it during the operation, it is wrapped in white cotton cloth.

When the chamber is ready, the trap-door is closed, and its edges are covered over with clay. Then a pan of sulphur on fire is put through each opening, and both are closed. For 100 kilogrammes (220 lbs.) of wool, 2 kilogrammes (4½ lbs.) of sulphur are employed. This substance is changed into sulphurous acid gas by means of the oxygen of the air, and this acid, condensed by the water which moistens the wool, re-acts on the colouring matter, and causes it to disappear.

At the end of twelve to twenty-four hours, according to circumstances, all the apertures are opened, that the outer air may enter the chamber, drive out the excess of sulphurous acid gas, and dry the wool. In winter, as soon as the suffocating smell is dissipated, the door and trap-door are closed, and the wool is dried with fire in chafing-dishes. Usually after the wool has been subjected to the action of sulphur, it is first put into hot water to get rid of the sulphur, and afterwards into a light soap bath to make it more mellow. It is then tinted with a carmine or an acetate of indigo, alone or with alumina.

Wool bleached by means of sulphurous acid gas soon gets yellow by contact with the air. This disadvantage may be obviated by a more or less prolonged immersion of the wool in a solution of sulphite of soda, with the addition of hydrochloric acid. The salt is put into the bath in large crystals, so that its solution in the water and decomposition by hydrochloric acid going on gradually, the wool may remain longer in contact with the sulphuric acid which is set at liberty. The bleaching is thus more complete. The yellowest and commonest wools are made of a beautiful and lasting white colour by this means. Spun wool thus bleached is always of a finer whiteness than what is so treated in the fleece.

The process of bleaching by sulphite of soda is excellent, but has the disadvantage of being rather slow. A skilful chemist has found the means of simplifying and hastening the process by the use of bisulphite of soda. This product, which is liquid, and known in commerce as leucogène, is manufactured by the inventor, M. CLAUDE, at Rouen. Bleaching by bisulphite of soda is as simple as by sulphite of soda. All that is necessary is to put into a wooden trough a certain quantity of water, add about a twentieth part of bisulphite of soda, and 2 or 3 per cent. of hydrochloric acid. The re-action will then take place. The wool plunged in this liquid being in contact with the sulphurous acid as it is forming, the bleaching takes place more quickly. On being afterwards exposed to the air and dried, it becomes perfectly white. This white may be rendered still more beautiful by the addition of a little bisulphite of indigo, so as to give the wool a slightly azure tinge.

- Moniteur de la Teinture.

An improved Process of Tanning.

Practical Magazine 18, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

A French patent has been obtained by M. TRAMIER, of Marseilles, for a rapid method of tanning hides by the injection of a mixture of carbonic acid and air in variable proportions, according to the condition of the skins. This mixture is directed by means of a pump to the lower part of the vats, in which the hides are placed with a solution of tannin in water. The vats are fitted with tubes containing capillary holes through which the gas passes and thus keeps up currents of bubbles which, continuously renewing the action of the tannin on the surface of the hides, dilate their pores, and facilitate the absorption of the tannin by the gelatinous and albuminoid substance of the hides, so as to convert them quickly into leather of good quality.

Aluminium and its future in the arts.

Practical Magazine 18, 1876

It is now about twenty years since the celebrated French Chemist, Deville, succeeded in demonstrating the possibility of producing the metal aluminium upon a large scale; but up to the present, the extent to which this interesting and praiseworthy invention has been utilized has but to a slight degree realized the sanguine expectations which intelligent minds of all professions have been accustomed to associate with it. So important, indeed, were the fruits of Deville's first investigations deemed to be, that they were at once invested with the dignity of royal patronage, and the first works for the manufacture of the new metal were shortly there after erected at Javelle, near Paris, from the private purse of the late Emperor of the French. It was expected that the new product would at once find its way into the useful arts as an effective and valuable substitute for many other metals. That these expectations were well founded, will be apparent from the characteristic and very exceptional properties of the metal. A bright, pure surface of aluminium possesses a greyish white colour, something between that of zinc and tin. Its extreme lightness is one of its very distinguishing properties, and affords an immediate means of identifying it from every other metal– its specific gravity is but 2.5 (water = 1), from which it appears that it is about three times lighter than copper, four times lighter than silver, and nearly eight times lighter than gold. When struck it emits a loud, clear, musical tone, which has been compared with that of crystal glass. The keen observing powers of the French chemist did not permit this property to pass unnoticed. He suggested the employment of aluminium for bell-metal, and in the year 1868 presented to the Royal Institution of Great Britain a bell a foot and a-half in diameter, which proved to possess a most exquisite tone, and which, despite its not inconsiderable dimensions, weighed no more than forty-four pounds.

The metal may be hammered out into the thinnest leaves, rolled into plates or sheets, and drawn into the finest wire. Its hardness approaches that of fine silver, and its tensile strength equals that of copper. Its melting point lies at 700° C. (about 1,300 Fahr.), or between that of zinc and silver; and it is worthy of note that it fuses with extreme slowness, and does not vaporize even in the heat of the blast furnace. Generally speaking, the metal is workable to an extraordinary degree, and it may be filed, turned, pressed, engraved, and coined quite readily. In compact masses the metal is quite indifferent to atmospheric influences, and even when being smelted, it does not sensibly oxodize. It must be remarked, however, that the properties above enumerated are predicated from the presumption that the metal is free from impurities.

The adaptability of aluminium as a circulating medium to substitute the great variety of small coin of various compositions now employed in the different countries, was strongly urged at the outset by Deville; and as long ago as 1855, a large and beautifully executed medallion of this metal, made under his direction, and presented to Prof. Wöhler, its first discoverer, attracted much attention. The properties of aluminium, which have been appealed to as establishing its admirable fitness for coinage into money, are, in addition to its colour, klang, and ease of manipulation, its extreme lightness, which would serve as a perfect check upon its fraudulent imitation, and especially its indifference to atmospheric influences. In this latter respect it is far superior to silver and copper, and the alloys of these metals, at present so largely employed for this purpose. Weights of aluminium, for example, have for a number of years been employed, and have proved to be excellently adapted for the most delicate work of precision in the laboratory, retaining their accuracy even after years of use. The same admirable conser vation has been remarked upon the numerous articles of luxury and fancy, which, immediately after the first public knowledge of the metal, it became the fashion to possess. Nor can it be urged with much reason that it is undesirable for coinage purposes because of the possibility of the discovery in the near future of some simple method of producing the metal from clay — which is known to contain it in considerable proportion — since this problem has been repeatedly attacked and as often abandoned as hopeless of solution; and the price of the metal has remained very constant for a number of years.

It may be considered an objection to its employment for monetary purposes, that it is energetically dissolved by a solution of soda or potash; but in reply, it may be remarked that silver and copper are equally objectionable in this particular, since they are both eagerly dissolved by nitric acid, to the action of which aluminium is quite indifferent. Upon the whole, it appears to the writer that the permanency of the metal, by which is meant its great stability when exposed to atmospheric influences and its indifference to the action of many of the usual solvent agents, and the great difficulty attending its production in large quantities, fairly entitle aluminium to be ranked with the noble metals; and when, in addition to the foregoing, its very exceptional properties are called to mind, the metal may justly claim careful consideration on the part of those who interest themselves with the question of reforming the world's circulating medium.

In the manufacture of jewellery and other articles of luxury, it is probable that aluminium may in time play an important part, though it is scarcely possible for it to ever rival the popularity of silver in these uses. In Paris, which by the way has always remained the head-quarters of the aluminium industry, it appears to be employed to a considerable extent for elegant inlaid work upon jewel and dressing-cases, fans, &c., for lids and covers of glasses, and for a variety of small articles of galanterie. From what has been done in this direction, we can estimate its fitness for a thousand elegant articles of taste, fancy, and utility, when once its popularity is established before the world at large, which is now scarcely cognizant of the existence of such a metal as aluminium. The clock and watch-makers' arts, the manufacturers of surgical and musical instruments, and of artificial teeth, and especially the manufacturers of fancy articles, such as seals, pen-holders, paper-weights, smokers’ and sportsmen's necessaries, shirt and sleeve buttons, canes and riding-whips, harness decorations, statuettes, gas-fixtures and lamps, and of other articles too numerous to mention, would without doubt derive much advantage and profit from the employment of aluminium, and sooner or later its peculiar fitness for these uses will be recognized.

For the manufacture of philosophical and engineering instru ments, and especially the latter, the indifference of aluminium to atmospheric influences and its extreme lightness, have of late met with general recognition, and the employment of the metal for these uses is steadily growing in favour.

For household utensils, likewise, aluminium has been highly recommended; but though, for this purpose as for others, neither a want of desirable properties nor excessive costliness have stood in the way of its introduction, it has been opposed by the despotic rule of custom or fashion, and in no instance with less show of reason. How much, for example, has been written and spoken concerning the danger of poisoning from the vessels employed in preparing food P How many warnings have been uttered against using copper cooking utensils, pots with lead glazing, and silver spoons that form verdigris? Were these household goods made of aluminium, we should be in possession of vessels that, so far as outward appearance and durability go, leave very little to be desired; that, furthermore, would be far more convenient to handle than the customary wares they would replace; and, what is of perhaps more importance, that would be perfectly innocuous. It appears somewhat curious that the experiment has never been tried of introducing the use of aluminium spoons. The present or prospective cost of aluminium can scarcely be offered as an objection thereto, for this is now only about one-half that of silver; while the difference in the specific gravity of the two metals is so considerable, that for the money value of one silver spoon of good quality, one might obtain no less than seven spoons of aluminium, of equal size and strength.

That prejudice and fashion are to some extent to blame for the general want of appreciation, and even total ignorance, of the eminently fitting characteristics of the new metal for a variety of uses, is very manifest; and the clearing away of such obstacles is generally a matter of great difficulty.

The alloys of aluminium are, however, worthy of special consideration, and there is a reasonable probability that a wide field of utility may be open for them in the future. Dr. Biedermann, referring to this subject, remarks, "although there is no mistaking the fact that the high expectations with which the appearance of aluminium filled the public mind have not been fulfilled, yet the aluminium industry has a safe guarantee of its existence in the use of the metal for aluminium alloys, which are capable of the most extensive use on account of their excellent qualities." The only aluminium alloys which have, however, acquired importance in the arts, are the so-called aluminium bronzes.

According to M. Morin, the director of the manufactory of Nanterre, very homogeneous alloys are obtained with copper and 5, 7½ and 10 per cent. of aluminium. The alloys with 5 and 10 per cent of aluminium are both of a golden colour, whilst that with 7½ per cent. has a greenish tint. Even so small an addition as I per cent. of aluminium to copper, according to another authority, considerably increases its ductility and fusibility, and imparts to it the property of completely filling the mould, making a dense casting free from air-bubbles. At the same time the copper becomes more resistant of chemical reagents, increases in hardness without losing in malleability, and unites in itself the most valuable qualities of bronze and brass. A copper alloy with 2 per cent. of aluminium is said to be used in the studio of Christofle, in Paris, for works of art. It works well under the chisel and graver.

The true aluminium bronzes, according to Rudolph Wagner, were first made by John Percy, in 1856. As above referred to, they are alloys containing 90 to 95 per cent. of copper with 10 to 5 per cent. of aluminium. The direct mixture, by first fusion, of 10 parts of aluminium and 90 of copper, gives a brittle alloy, which, however, increases in strength and tenacity by several successive fusions. At each operation a little aluminium is lost. After the compound has been melted three or four times, however, the proportion of aluminium does not appear to change, and the alloy may be again remelted several times without alteration. These fusions are effected in crucibles. The aluminium bronze is homogeneous, and possesses sufficient expan sion to fill the remotest parts of the mould. It affords sharp castings that can be worked more readily than steel. Aluminium bronze may be forged at a dull red-heat, and hammered until cooled off without presenting any flaws or cracks. Like copper, it is rendered milder and more ductile by being plunged into cold water when hot. The bronze polishes beautifully, and pos sesses great strength — according to Anderson's experiments, an average of 75,618½ lbs. per square inch. The resistance to compression is feeble. From the experiments of Col. Strange, on the relative rigidity of brass, ordinary and aluminium bronze, it appears that the last named is 40 times as rigid as brass, and 3 times as rigid as ordinary bronze.

Other experiments have shown that aluminium bronze does not expand or contract as much as ordinary bronze, or brass; that under the tool it produces long and resisting chips, does not clog the file, engraves nicely, etc.; that it is easily rolled into sheets; that in the melted state it expands very much, and is fit for the sharpest castings; but that, as it cools off rapidly, it is subject to shrinkage, and hence to cracks when the articles are bulky, hence requiring numerous runners and a heavy feeding head; and lastly, that, although not entirely unoxidizable, it is not so readily tarnished by contact with the air as polished brass, iron, steel, etc. Dr. Biedermann speaks very highly of this metal. "In the construction of physical, geodic, and astronomical instruments," he says, "it is far preferable to all other metals. In jewellery and articles of art and luxury it is employed in large quantities. Many kinds of house utensils are made of it, and it is also adapted to journal and axle boxes. Gun and pistol barrels, as well as rifled cannon, have been made of it, and have done excellent service." It has been highly recommended for type metal; type made of it last ing, it is affirmed, fully 50 times as long as those from common type metal; it has been employed for the bed of perforating machines for perforating postage stamps; and for the main-springs of watches (90 copper and 5 aluminium), being very hard and elastic, not magnetic, and less liable to rust than steel. Its price, however, ranging as it does from $3 to $10 per lb., according to its percentage of aluminium, is probably the greatest impediment to its common use.

Aluminium alloys with many other metals have been made — notably with silver and iron — but none of them have acquired a permanent value in the arts. They may be passed over with the brief remark that aluminium containing 4 per cent. of silver is employed for the beams of fine balances — for which it is peculiarly fitted from its comparative lightness and stability; and that the addition of a small percentage of aluminium to steel is claimed to impart special virtues to the latter — a claim which, however, has not yet been well established.

In another direction, namely, in electro-plating and coating other metals with aluminium, numerous experiments have been tried, but thus far without practical result.

A few words more concerning the process of manufacture and the present commercial importance of the metal, and we have done. Its metallurgical production is as follows:

Aluminium is manufactured by decomposing the double chloride of aluminium and sodium, with the aid of metallic sodium. The sodium (which, by the way, has been materially cheapened in price since the establishment of the aluminium industry) is obtained by heating to redness a mixture of one hundred parts of calcined soda, fifteen parts of chalk, and forty-five parts of coal. The chloride of aluminium is prepared by passing chlorine gas over a moderately heated mixture of pure alumina (obtained either from alum, or the mineral bauxite), common salt and coal-tar. This operation is conducted in an iron gas-retort, and the result of the interaction of the several substances present is the combination of the coal-tar with the oxygen of the alumina, and the production of aluminium chloride, which unites with the chloride of sodium (common salt), forming a double salt, which volatilizes and is passed off into a separate chamber, where it condenses. From this method of obtaining the chloride, it is impossible to keep it free from chloride of iron, for which reason it is invariably present in the Parisian aluminium. From this double chloride of aluminium and sodium, the metallic aluminium is obtained, either by passing it in the form of vapour over a heated surface of metallic sodium, in a simply constructed and connected system of iron cylinders appropriately heated; or the materials are at once mixed and heated.

Rose, of Berlin, instead of the artificially prepared aluminium chloride, employed the mineral kryolite (a natural compound oc curring in deposits of considerable magnitude in Greenland, and consisting of fluoride of aluminium and sodium) quite successfully. By heating this mineral with sodium, metallic aluminium and fluoride of sodium are produced, and the latter compound is gotten rid of by treating the resulting mass with caustic lime. Of late the metal has also been manufactured from the mineral bauxite.

At present there are four aluminium works in existence, of which three are in France and one in England. Their total production amounts to about 3,500 lbs. yearly, of which 2,000 lbs. are produced in France, 1,500 lbs. in England. Its market value has averaged about $15 per lb., and has been for some years stationary at that figure.

Polytechnic Review.

Japanese Wax

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c. Miscellaneous).

The chief wax-producing tree of Japan is Rhus succedanea. The fruit of Rhus vernicifera, which also contains wax, is used in the north of the country, but it gives an inferior product to that of Rhus succedanea, which flourishes only in the south. There it is found abundantly, especially in the islands of Kiushiu and Sikok, and is grown on dykes, roads, and the borders of fields, as well as near houses.

It is like all the rhus tribe in growth, and especially resembles the lac tree, but differs from it in dividing very much into strong branches near the ground, so that the chief stem is scarcely distinguishable. It also appears as if the tree was propagated by sprouts from the root. Its height seldom exceeds 30 ft. This small height in comparison with the peculiarly wide-spreading summit is characteristic of the tree.

The time for the appearance of new leaves is the month of April, and for blossoming, June. The fruit is ripe in October. When gathered in clusters, it is dried in the sun, and, after being taken from the stalks, sold to the wax manufacturers, by whom it is beaten while dry. The process employed is the same as the Japanese use for removing the husks from rice. A wooden tilt hammer worked by hand falls into a funnel-shaped wooden sort of trough, containing the material to be worked upon. By this operation, continued for a long time, the husk and softer part of the fruit are reduced to powder, while the inner stone remains and is separated by a sieve. By draughts of air blowing while the powder falls slowly from a height, the lighter husk is separated from the heavier part which contains the wax, but usually the latter is collected and again worked. In the poor island of Sikok a small per-centage of an inferior sort of wax is obtained by also grinding the stones.

The sifted powder containing wax is exposed to the action of steam in hempen sacks laid on bamboo wicker-work, so that the steam from a cauldron underneath may pass through. The contents are then, together with the sacks, subjected to considerable pressure, and the wax that flows out is received in the forms in which it goes to market. The instruments of pressure are usually of the most primitive sort.

The further treatment of the wax is very simple. In special bleaching works the raw wax is melted, pressed through strong cotton sacks, and dropped into moving cold water, by which means it is obtained in crumpled thin flakes and small pieces, which are bleached in the sun. For this purpose the wax is laid in shallow baskets, 2½ ft. long and 1 ft. broad, which are placed in long rows, often by thousands, in the open air. Here the wax is repeatedly turned according to the intensity of the sun's heat, and sprinkled with water, and, if necessary, even a second time melted. The wax then assumes a perfectly white colour.

The total export of wax from Japan for the year 1874 amounted to 1128 tons. The chief markets for this product are Nagasaki, Kobe (Hiogo), and Osaka. It is sent chiefly to China and London.

- Oesterreichische Monatsscrift für den Orient, April 15, 1876.

The Lac Tree.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c. Miscellaneous).

Lac is a varnish which can hardly be impaired, and possesses a transparent brightness. It is applied to every variety of useful and fancy articles. It is found abundantly in Japan and China, but the Japanese lac is far superior in quality to the Chinese. This product has long been much sought after by European countries, and it is the most important article of export. Wax is extracted from the fruit of the lac tree, and Japan derives large profits from traffic in this substance.

There are two lac trees, the male and the female. The male bears no fruit. It is not till the trees have reached the age of four or five years that any use is made of them. Produce is obtained from them for only three years, and after that they are cut down. The Japanese propagate the tree either by seed or cuttings. The former method produces seedlings of inferior quality.

For extracting the lac account is taken of the quality of the soil, the size of the tree, and its height. A horizontal gash is made in the bark with an implement called kaki-gama, a sort of double hook, then an incision in the middle of the gash. Through this opening the lac flows, which is taken up with an iron knife and poured into a vessel fastened to the girdle of the collector, who makes incisions in one tree after another for four days. He then goes back to the first tree, makes a gash above the former one, and repeats the operation on each of the trees previously cut. The incisions are begun again in the same order from below upwards until the whole tree has been gashed, after which the tree is cut down.

The branches are cut off, made into a bundle, and put in water for ten or twenty days. If they are large, incisions are made in them with the kaki-gama. For small branches a small-bladed instrument is used, which cuts both ways.

- Les Mondes, March 23, 1876.

22.10.21

The change of Madder Red to Orange.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

— M. C. STROBEL, while studying the action of nitrous vapours on various printed colours, found that they destroyed most aniline colours and indigo blue, but brightened vapour greens and blues. He then applied them to madder red, and obtained a beautiful orange, which does not turn to red under the action of boiling soap-baths.

The experiment answered as well with vapour reds as with those obtained by dyeing on textures, whether oiled or not. His mode of operation is this. Into a wooden case containing the coloured texture he introduces the nitrous vapours obtained by the action of nitric acid on starch. The gas is previously cooled by passing through a flask surrounded with water. An exposure of four or five minutes is necessary to effect the change of the red. If the operation is interrupted before that time, the orange obtained will turn to brown under the action of soap and alkalies.

M. Strobel’s observation is new, and its importance will be appreciated by all who are engaged in dyeing textures. If the process above described cannot be employed in industry now, the time may be anticipated when the substance which produces this beautiful orange can be prepared directly, and applied to textures. We shall then have another fast colour which will not fail to be extensively used.

- Bulletin de la Société Industrielle de Mulhouse

.

Direct Production of Methylaniline on Cotton.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Methylaniline salts in presence of oxidising agents, such as salts of copper, chlorates, &c., produce Paris violet. These conditions of formation resemble those of aniline black. It might therefore be supposed that violet can be produced by the aniline black formula, aniline being replaced by its derivative. But this is not the case, the violet being destroyed by a further action.

If a solution of neutral chlorate of methylaniline (to 3 or 4 per cent. of the base) or with an excess of base, be printed, a violet colour more or less bright is obtained after an exposure of eight or ten days at a temperature of 86° to 95° F. The addition of one-fourth to a half per cent of red prussiate brings out the colour in two or three days. The solution of chlorate should not be acid, nor the place of exposure too damp. The addition of salts of copper to the chlorate of methylaniline does not give satisfactory results.

The colouring matter obtained directly on the textile fabric does not differ from Paris violet except in brightness of tone. Boiling water takes away the violet and leaves nothing but grey, a secondary product of the re-action.

- Bulletin de la Société Industrielle de Mulhouse

Walnut Husks.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Though as a general rule good use is made of the materials furnished by nature for purposes of art, some are thrown away as useless through want of thought. To this class belong the green outer husks of walnuts, which have long been known to possess colouring matter, but have not received the attention they deserve. They contain a yellow brown, remarkably fast dye, which is well suited for dyeing woollen and cotton materials, staining wood, &c., and would serve the same purposes as colouring substances on which large sums are expended. Wool requires no mordant, &c., when dyed with them, is very soft to handle, and not like that dyed with vitriol. The dyeing is as simple as it is cheap. The shades of colour obtained are from bright to dark brown, pleasing to the eye, and very fast. In many places the husks may be got for nothing. They may be simply kept dried till used, or packed moist in tubs, by which means their colouring power is further increased.

- Muster Zeitung.

The influence of Acids in Dyeing with Madder and its Artificial Substitutes.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

In a paper on this subject, communicated to the "Bulletin de la Société Industrielle de Mulhouse," M. Rosenstrehl, shows that alizarine and the colours related to it deprive carbonic and acetic acids of their salts, so as to form lakes with simple bases which are themselves decomposed by the same acids. In presence of the oxides of aluminium and iron this deprival is more complete, and extends even to salts with energetic base, such as the nitrates and chloride of calcium. There are then formed lakes with double base.

He also shows the important part which carbonic acid, naturally dissolved in water, performs in the operation of dyeing, indicates the cause of the divergences that exist between the results of experiments in the laboratory and those of industrial operations, and suggests means of putting an end to the disagreement. He proposes the substitution of acetate of calcium for the carbonate, as being more advantageous, and incidentally mentions the peculiar dissolving action which acetate of sodium exercises when hot on the colouring materials of which he has treated.

The importance of Lime in Dyeing with madder.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

M.ROSENTHIEL has been studying the importance of lime in dyeing with madder and its derivatives. He shows that lime is fixed on textile fabrics at the same time as the colouring substances, and that a beautiful bright red on cotton contains alumina and lime, in the proportion of four atoms of aluminium to three of calcium. Rosenthiel experimented with a solution of bicarbonate of lime in the proportion of a gramme (15½ grs. troy) per litre (1¾ pt.). Pseudo-purpurine does not hold unless distilled water is used, and its tints are removed by soap. An addition of solution of lime weakens the dyeing bath. If the addition is so strong that a lake is formed with an atom of calcium, all the pseudo-purpurine will be lost and precipitated. Carbonic acid does not re-act on the insoluble lake. This is the reason why pseudo-purpurine is of no importance in dyeing with madder, which always requires the addition of a small quantity of carbonate of lime. Madder from Avignon contains this quantity of itself, but that of Alsace requires some to be added. On dyeing with Alsace madder — that is to say with a mixture of pseudo-purpurine, alizarine, and purpurine — in water free from lime, the pseudo-purpurine is first fixed on the mordant, then only the purpurine. The alizarine scarcely comes into consideration. The colours cannot be firm, being principally formed of pseudo-purpurine, and consequently do not resist soap, acid, and light. By the addition of chalk, on the contrary, the alizarine is first fixed on the mordant, and forms with the purpurine the true madder red, being also that obtained with Avignon madder. The pseudo-purpurine is again found under the form of an insoluble lake in the dyeing bath, and is lost for dyeing purposes, as well as a little of the purpurine and alizarine.

To supply this loss, the madder-dyeing baths are poured into basins apart, where the deposit takes place. The deposit, having been separated, is treated with boiling acid diluted with water. By this process the lakes are decomposed, and the pseudo-purpurine is brought to the condition of purpurine. The final product is garancine of spent madder, and for the most part contains purpurine. It is employed in the form of cakes, and takes the place of garancine, but is naturally of less value. With the hydrate of purpurine a beautiful red may be obtained in a direct way, without the use of a soap bath, which only increases the brightness of the colour.

The hydrate of purpurine, called orange colouring matter, is of no importance for dyeing, which is true of pseudo-purpurine also. Hence the only colouring matters of importance for dyeing are the purpurine and alizarine. It is easy with them to obtain all the shades required. Carbonate of lime is indispensable to the alizarine, which requires the quantity necessary to form alizarate of lime. A larger quantity is injurious, since a combination of two atoms of lime gives a deep violet blue colour, which, being scarcely soluble, has little dyeing power. If a small quantity of alizarine is boiled in water charged with lime, the liquid is coloured violet, and preserves this colour for several days. The purpurine treated in the same way gives a rose colour, which disappears after a few hours.

On dyeing with a mixture of alizarine and purpurine in distilled water, it is chiefly the purpurine that operates, even when the two are employed in equal quantities. If, on the contrary, the water is charged with lime, it is chiefly the alizarine that forms the red, and on the addition of chalk the red becomes more and more violet, while the purpurine is precipitated in the form of an insoluble lime lake.

Consequently there is a means of producing any shade what ever with the same mixture of alizarine and purpurine, by varying the proportions of chalk. This explains why often with the same garancine at one time a red may be obtained (with a small quantity of chalk), and at another a beautiful violet (with a larger quantity of chalk).

- Moniteur Industriel Belge, March 20, 1876.

A Gold Varnish.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Researches made by M. KAYSER, of Nuremberg, have shown that a gold varnish, distinguished both by its hardness and beautiful colour, may be obtained by the use of picric and boracic acid. A very pure solution of gum lac should be mixed with picric acid and about half per cent. of crystallized boracic acid, the two acids having been previously dissolved in alcohol. In this way a gold varnish may be prepared, possessing all the advantages of those that are met with in commerce.

- Technologiste, March 18, 1876.

21.10.21

Tungstate of Zinc as a Colouring Substance.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

If to a solution of tungstate of soda be added a solution of a salt of zinc, a snow-white tungstate of oxide of zinc is immediately set free, which covers well, and may be especially recommended for fine painting. As an oil colour it is said to be preferable to all white colouring substances.

- Polytechnisches Notizblatt.

New Vegetable Colouring Matter.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

In Tahiti there is a tree of the Musaceæ family, called Musa Fehii, which grows chiefly in high places, and the fruit of which is eaten like that of the banana. In the early stages of its growth it yields a sticky, neutral juice, which in a thin layer is strawberry red, and in a thick layer blue violet. It keeps pretty well in a closed vessel, but if allowed to rest long, deposits a violet substance forming threads, and behaving like caoutchouc with solvents. The liquid, after being freed from this substance, may mix in any proportion with water and alcohol without getting thick, and then has so intense a colour that it may be diluted with five times its weight of water without any apparent weakening of its tint. Its taste is astringent, and with gelatine it gives an abundant precipitate which takes away the colour. Weak alkaline solutions make it turn to green, without producing any precipitate. Salts of lime cause an insoluble tannate precipitate, which takes away the colour. Acids make it change to a reddish colour, sulphate of iron produces a beautiful blue precipitate, and acetate of iron a blackish precipitate, like that of tannate of iron. Salts of zinc and copper colour it blue, without producing any precipitate, while acetate of lead gives a violet blue precipitate. Perchloride of tin developes a violet lake of peculiar vivacity of tone.

A trial of this new colour on yarn was made with part of the juice, freed, as stated above, from the caoutchouc substance, and diluted with five parts of water. On cotton treated with alum the liquid produced a pale violet bordering on grey, but on cotton prepared with a solution of tin the violet was very fine. The yarn, being first put into the bath of tin, and then into one of iron, and afterwards dyed, gave a deep saturated brown. On flax the same tints, but brighter, were obtained. Silk prepared with a solution of tin, and put into the dyeing-bath, took a bright grey tint.

- Polytechnisches journal.

19.10.21

Arnotto Yellow on Cotton.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Arnotto is one of the few colouring matters which can be applied to cotton fibre directly without a mordant, and which are extensively used for cotton printing and dyeing in general. The ordinary methods of applying it are attended with some uncertainty and inconvenience. Sometimes the yellow is too bright or too deep, sometimes pure yellow or reddish yellow, and moreover, the colour will not always stand well.

M. KIELMEYER has observed that a mixture of alcohol and a soda lye dissolves the yellow and red ingredients of arnotto much more completely than either of these solvents alone. Hence he has sought and found a new formula for the yellow of arnotto, which practice has confirmed. It requires only half the lye necessary with other formulae, while it ensures the duration and permanence of the printed colour by reducing to a minimum the injurious influence on the browns and reds, and by brightening the yellow colour.

He puts 66 lbs. of arnotto in 5¼ galls. of alcohol, and adds to it, while continually stirring, 2½ galls. of a soda lye of 1,598 spesific gravity. The whole having a temperature of 113° to 122°F., is left for a night in a copper boiler. The liquid is then drawn off, and the undissolved residuum is collected on a metallic sieve, carefully pressed, and treated with 7¾ galls. of boiling water to free it from all solution of arnotto mechanically adhering to it. The watery bright yellow solution, after having cooled, is added to the preceding alcoholic solution, and the whole is thickened with 13 lbs. of gum tragacanth mucilage.

The shade which is obtained on cotton with this printing co lour, after evaporation and washing, is a very intense orange yellow, which is not dear, for notwithstanding the use of alcohol, the colour costs less than that prepared by the ordinary formulae, because it admits of much less arnotto, which is a direct proof that by this treatment of arnotto there is less reason to fear loss of colour by decomposition.

If a brighter shade is desired, with less orange in it and more approaching canary yellow, as for very thin pocket handker chiefs, aluminate of soda and a decoction of yellow berries are to be added to the diluted colour. The ammoniacal solution of turmeric is not to be recommended, because it cannot be kept in any quantity for more than two or three hours.

- Polytechnisches journal.

Dyeing Wool in Scarlet, Salmon, and Rose Colour with the Same Bath.

Practical Magazine 17, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

M. F. SPRINGMUHL gives the following receipt for a scarlet bath which will also produce salmon and rose colours. The scarlet dye is produced by a liquid composed as follows for 110 lbs. of yarn:

11 lbs. of cochineal of good quality,
3¾ lbs. of salt of tin,
6¼ lbs. of oxalic acid,
11 lbs. of Dyer’s spirit,
¼ lb. of flavine.

Boil for a quarter of an hour, then let it cool, and you have a scarlet dye into which the yarn is to be dipped. Then boil gradually, and keep up the boiling for an hour.

If 5½ lbs. of oxalic acid and 2¾ lbs. of salt of tin be added, boiled for a quarter of an hour, and then cooled, salmon colour may be obtained by treating the yarn as above.

If to this second bath 6½ lbs. of Dyer's spirit, and 4 lbs. of cochineal be added, then boiled, and suffered to cool, the yarn may be dyed a deep rose colour. If, lastly, 3¾ lbs. of Dyer's spirit be added, the yarn will have a bright rose colour. If too much flavine is used with the first bath, the rose tints cannot be obtained.

Dyer’s spirit is thus prepared:–
6 gallons of water,
33 lbs. of acetic acid,
2¾ lbs. of hydrochloric acid,
6 lbs. of grated tin, which is added in small quantities

- Technologiste

Colouring of Paper-pulp Red or Rose-Colour

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c. Miscellaneous).

In the colouring of paper-pulp it is difficult to obtain a dark tint or one of bold tone, like red and rose-colour. The following is a method of obtaining a beautiful pure red or rose-colour:

When a decoction is made, much charged with Pernambuco, Brazil, or other red wood, it ought not to be stirred in the refining basin at the same time that the glueing takes place. A quantity of the decoction of red wood, proportioned to the shade desired, is poured into the basin. On the other hand, there is poured on to the resinous soap chloride of tin, which has the property of forming a precipitate of colophony or resin, and which is afterwards poured into the basin, care being taken to stir as much as possible while it is being poured, until the pulp has taken the required tone of colour. The pulp may then be transferred to the tubs of the paper-making machine. The chloride of tin should be diluted in ten times its weight of water before being mixed with the resinous soap. The shade of red or rose-colour varies with the quantity of tin that is employed, and this chloride is obtained by mixing ten parts of nitric acid with twenty of hydrochloric acid, in which all the tin is to be absorbed until the mixture is dissolved. The tin should be brought to thin flakes before being employed, for which purpose it is fused and poured into cold water. About 9 lbs. of tin are required for the above quantities of acids. In this process it is not necessary to use alum or sulphate of alumina.

- Le Teinturier Practique.

Glauber's Salt and its Use in the Dyeing of Wools.

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

The sulphate of soda (Na26, SO3 +H2O) is known in commerce as Glauber's salt, and sold in large white crystals. Its remarkable chemical properties facilitate its use in the dyeing of wools. By its combination with acid the neutral sulphate is transformed into bi-sulphate, and this property is of great value in dyeing.

Ordinary litmus, violet litmus, fuchsine, red dyeing woods, turmeric, the red dyes, madder, logwood, and yellow wood are, it is well known, absorbed in only a very small proportion by woolly filaments in the presence of diluted acid; but if Glauber's salt is added to such a bath, then in consequence of the combination between this salt and the acid, a great part of the acid is precipitated, and all the advantage of the dyeing materials can be reaped.

Consequently the dyer has in his own hands the means of regulating the operation. It will be sufficient for him to add more or less Glauber's salt, but, of course, the quantity of it employed must be proportionate to the quantity of acid in the bath. If, as is sometimes the case, an attempt is made to attain the same object by rendering the bath stronger, or using it for a longer time, the harm done by entangling the fibres of the wool far outweighs the advantage gained by the use of the Glauber's salt.

With soluble indigo Glauber's salt gives an equally good result, but its action is diametrically opposite. It is well known how rapidly and unequally the bath of soluble indigo is exhausted. The rapid precipitation of this colouring substance is easy to understand, since in the presence of the acid the indigo possesses a great affinity for the woolly fibres. Hence one ought not to be surprised, after plunging three skeins into a bath of this nature, to see the third drawn out almost white. If Glauber's salt is added to the bath, it combines with part of the acid, and the operation of dyeing is rendered more uniform, while its duration is prolonged.

The following receipts for dyeing baths have been found useful:

Bluish green for three pieces of cloth.

Alum 5,040 kilogrammes.
Crystal 420 "
Soluble indigo or carmine 175 "
Glauber's salt 1,680 "
Flavin (Flawin) 0,0175 "

Billiard-table green for three pieces of cloth.

Alum 8,400 kilogrammes.
Glauber's salt 5,04O "
Carmine 1,680
Picric acid 0,350"
Heat to 167° F. for an hour and a half.

Logwood blue for four pieces of cloth.

Alum 4,480 kilogrammes.
Chromate of potass 1,120 "
Blue vitriol 0,560 "
Tartar 2,240 "
Glauber's salt 6,720 "
Sulphuric acid 2,24O "
Boil for an hour and a half, and add 22,400 kilogrammes of logwood.

- H. Söderstrom in Deutsche Wolfen Gezverbe.

Aniline Black Ink.

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

It is well known that aniline black, properly so called, is nearly insoluble in most chemical re-agents. It is applied to textile fabrics in a pounded state, or developed on the texture or paper by the re-action of a salt of copper on hydrochlorate of aniline. It thus furnishes an intense and indelible black. But a mixture of salt of copper and hydrochlorate of aniline is not long in the air without undergoing great changes. It soon turns to green, and deposits insoluble aniline black. This prevents the use of this black for flowing ink. Latterly, however, it has been found possible to prepare, with aniline and methyl, colouring substances of a blueish black shade, so intense and soluble in water that they can be used in the preparation of beautiful black writing ink.

One of these substances is an article of commerce under the name of soluble nigrosine. It dissolves in water with a slight residuum, and, without thickening, furnishes a beautiful blue black, which is purple in reflected light and immediately becomes intense black on paper. It is, consequently, an ink that does not change, flows easily from the pen, does not turn brown, and, when dry, can be again rendered fluid with a little water. It does not possess the intensity of the black from gall-nut, but a softer and more velvety tone. Although prepared with a soluble salt, it is not obliterated when dry, and not easily when moistened, unless it is too thick. On the other hand, the fibre of the paper does not completely absorb this colouring substance; the residuum continues as a deposit on the surface, and can be removed. This imperfection may be remedied by diluting the black with water. Acids change the characteristics into blue without destroying them, and, on account of the perfectly neutral re-action of nigrosine, this ink does not at all attack steel pens and render them unfit for use.

- Technologiste, Feb. 26, 1876.

18.10.21

Galenite.

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

M. J. DAVID gives this name to a product which is obtained by roasting slowly at a moderate temperature galena, or sulphuret of lead, and is consequently a mixture of sulphuret and oxide of lead. Galenite is likely to replace minium, or red lead, for coating metals, and pure white lead for the first coat of paint in houses. It is very drying, forms a good coating, adheres firmly, and is economical, because it requires only a small quantity of oil.

- Technologiste, Feb. 26, 1876.

Improved Zinc White.

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

It appears from the report of the Austrian Chemical Society, that M. ORR has found the following method effectual in producing a very beautiful zinc white. Wash sulphuret of raw barium, and mix it with the liquor obtained from equal equivalents of chlorine and sulphate of zinc. Collect the precipitate (sulphuret of zinc), press and dry it; then heat it on a hearth, and put it quite hot into cold water. This last step gives the mass great density. The product, washed and ground fine, has a coating colour of remarkable purity and whiteness.

- Technologiste, Feb. 5, 1876.

New Printing Ink.

Practical Magazine 16, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Messrs. KERCHER and EBNER have invented a new printing ink with iron base. It is prepared by first dissolving iron in sulphuric, hydro-chloric, or acetic acid. Half the solution is oxidised by means of nitric acid, after which the two halves are mixed, and precipitation is produced by the oxide of iron. The precipitate is filtered, washed, and mixed with equal parts of tannic and gallic acid, which produces a black bordering on blue. The black is washed and dried, then mixed with linseed oil, and an ink is obtained suitable for printing, lithography, and wood or metal engraving.

- Revue Industrielle, Feb. 9, 1876.

Dyeing of Wool.

Practical Magazine 15, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

The following receipts for dyeing wool appear in the "Moniteur Industriel Belge":

Black upon flocks, resisting the fulling mill

For 50 kilogrammes.
20 kilos. of logwood.
7 " yellow-wood.
6 " sumac.
2½ " tartar.

Boil the wool in this bath for two hours, then replace the evaporated water, and wet the wool, continually shaking it, with the solution of
2½ kilos. of sulphate of iron,
1½ kilo. of sulphate of copper.

Boil for an hour. For a bluish black wet the wool as above, as soon as it is lukewarm, with 2 kilos. of ammoniac, and then rinse and dry it well.

For a deep black substitute for ammoniac 1½ kilo. of bichromate of potass, dissolve it in boiling water, and boil for a quarter of an hour.

Blue; for 15 kilos. of wool spun for knitting.

Mordant by boiling for an hour in a bath containing 1 kilo. of alum, 1 kilo. of tartar, about 500 grammes of indigo carmine, and 150 grammes of salt of tin. Take out the wool, and let half the bath flow away, replacing it by cold water, and dye at 50°C. (112°Fahr.) with 2 kilos. 500 grammes of log-wood.

Olive; for 15 kilos. of wool.

Boil with one kilo. of bi-sulphate of potass and 150 grammes of sulphate of copper, about 2 kilos. 500 grammes of archil, 250 grammes of turmeric, 250 grammes of sulphate of indigo and garnet, according to the shade required.

Maroon on wool, resisting the fulling mill

For 50 kilogrammes.

Prepare a dyeing bath as follows:

To a clear solution of 10 kilos. of catechu add 2 kilos. of logwood and 2 kilos. 500 grammes of tartar.

Boil the wool for two hours in this bath, rinse, and add to the above bath 2 kilos. of bichromate of potass and 1 kilo. of sulphate of copper. Put the wool in, and boil for half-an-hour or an hour, according to the shade required, and then rinse.

Deep Blue on flocks of wool, resisting the fulling mill

For 50 kilogrammes.

Give a ground of blue, rinse in hot water, and mordant for an hour in a boiling bath containing —
500 grammes of bichromate of potass,
5 kilos. of alum,
250 grammes of copper, 180 grammes of salt of tin,
then dye with the addition of 500 grammes of sulphuric acid, rinse, and dry.

16.10.21

A Black Mordant on Wood.

Practical Magazine 15, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

According to Herr LAUBER, a black mordant on wood may be thus obtained: Dissolve a sufficient quantity of logwood in hot water to make the solution reach 10° by Beaumé's aérometer, mix 5 litres (rather more than a gallon) of this solution with 2½ litres (rather more than half-a-gallon) of wood-acetate of iron 11° Beaumé, and half-a-litre (rather more than three-quarters of a pint) of acetic acid 2° Beaumé, and warm the whole for about a quarter of an hour, after which the mordant will be fit for use. It is used cold, and for compact wood must be further diluted with water.

- Gewerbehalle.

Enamelling metal.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

The use of coloured enamels on large surfaces is yet in its infancy. The ordinary grey enamel (so called) is really not an enamel, but a transparent glaze, the apparent grey colour of which is produced by the surface of iron beneath the glaze.

Grey Micture Enamel.
Sand ..... 10 lbs. 0 ozs.
Red lead ..... 33 0
Boracic acid ..... 20 0
Cullett (broken glass) ..... 114 0
Bicarbonate of soda ..... 16 0
Nitre ..... 1 2
Manganese ..... 0 8½

Grey Mixture Enamel
Flint ..... 36 lbs. 0 ozs.
Boracic acid ..... 24 0
Bicarbonate of soda ..... 24 0
Nitre ..... 18 0

White Mixture Enamel
Cullett ..... 11 lbs. 0 ozs.
Boracic acid ..... 7 0
Bicarbonate of soda ..... 0 4
Phosphate of lime ..... 3 8
Oxide of antimony ..... 0 2

Method of recovering Indigo, Cochineal, Madder, and other colouring matter from Wool or Woollen Fabrics.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

The wool or woollen goods containing indigo, cochineal, madder, or other colouring materials, are put into a digester capable of resisting a high pressure, and exposed to the action of steam at a very high pressure, till the whole is entirely dissolved. It requires about six hours for 1,000 kilogrammes (2,205 lbs.) with a pressure of 40 to 50 kilogrammes (88 to 110 lbs.) for every 3 square centimetres (about 4½ square feet). When the solution is complete, water is added and boiled for a few moments, to render the mass more fluid. It is then strained through a coarse filter to separate the foreign substances, and through a second filter to separate the indigo, cochineal, madder, and other colouring matters. These colours are washed with water, again filtered, and dried. The solution which has passed through the filters is used either in the manufacture of prussiate of potash or sulphate of ammoniac, or for artificial manure.

- Moniteur Industriel Belge, Jan. 1st, 1876.

15.10.21

New Extract from Foreign Wood.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

The attempts hitherto made to find substitutes for catechu, sumach, and tannin have generally been fruitless. M. DUBOSC has obtained the best results from a tree of Brazil, known in that country by the popular name of quebracho. The particular form of its grain, which resembles a small shield, has given it the scientific name of aspidosperm. Botanists place it in the family of apocqueæ.

M. Dubosc submitted it to all the operations which dye-woods generally undergo, viz., cutting into chips or pulverization, lixiviation on the principle of methodical exhaustion, evaporation, and lastly concentration, till the extract assumes the desired consistence as liquid, paste, or solid, according to the requirements of commerce.

The extract of guebracho thus obtained may be advantageously substituted for catechu, sumach, and tannin in all their applications both to dyeing and tanning. M. Dubosc is the first to think of using this wood for procuring an eminently astringent product, which is likely to prove a valuable acquisition to those arts.

- Moniteur Industriel Belge, Jan. 1st, 1876.

Purple Tint for Marking Linen.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

A suitable preparation for this purpose is as follows: – Let 5 grammes (1.7 oz.) of sesquicarbonate of ammonium be neutralized in a porcelain mortar with nitric acid, and the perfectly neutral solution have 3 or 4 grammes (.1 or .14 oz.) of carmine ground into it. As a mordant for the linen, use a mixture of equal parts of acetate of argillaceous earth and nitrate of tin. Linen or cotton thus treated and marked with the above preparation will, when perfectly dried, show a purple tint.

- Industrie-Blätter, Dec. 30th, 1875

Tanning of Leather by Electricity.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876 48

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

If an electric current is passed through a solution of tannin in a reservoir, the bottom of which is one pole, while the other is at the surface of the liquid, and skins are interposed during the passage of the current, a molecular transmission of tannin from one pole to the other is produced. This tannin thus passes through the skins, which are penetrated with it much more quickly than by the ordinary process. The stoutest leather is thus tanned in thirty or thirty-five days instead of twelve or fifteen months. The skins nearest the positive pole are always penetrated first.

The bottom of the vessel is formed of a plate, or collection of plates, in retort charcoal. A copper wire, surrounded with gutta percha, is fastened to this bottom, and rises along the vertical side. The upper surface is covered with a sheet of zinc, to which the negative pole is fitted. The two poles are in connection with a pile or a magneto-electric machine. The skins are arranged in the reservoir alternately with layers of bark in the usual way.

- Bulletin de la Société Chimique, Nov. 20th, 1875.

Improvements in making Aniline Black for Dyeing or Printing.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

M. PINCKNEY’s process for making aniline black consists in treating an aniline salt with compounds of vanadium or uranium, either alone or together with a nickel salt and an oxidizing agent such as the chlorates.

For dyeing, the textures are dipped in a mixture of the following substances, or first in the metallic bath and afterwards in the bath containing aniline salt and chlorate. The proportions of the various ingredients may vary according to the nature of the tissues to be dyed, but the following proportions seem best: -
Hydrochlorate of aniline ... 150 parts
Vanadium salt ... 18'5 "
Chloride of nickel ... 20 "
Chlorate of potash ... 100 "
Water ... 2500 "

The dyeing may be done cold or hot.

For printing the following proportions may be used: —
Hydrochlorate of aniline ... 150 parts
Uranium or Vanadium salt ... 18.5"
Chloride of nickel ... 20 "
Chlorate of soda or potash ... 150 or 100 "
Water ... 1200 "

Thicken with gum or dextrine.

- Moniteur de la Teinture.

Mode of testing Olive Oil used in dyeing Turkey Red.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

To ascertain whether olive oil is pure and suitable for dyeing Turkey red, M. KOPP adopts the following process: —

Into an experimenting glass are poured ten volumes of the oil to be tested and one volume of ordinary nitric acid, to which are added some pieces of turnery shavings or red copper wire. The nitrogen forms with the nitric acid nitrous acid, the bubbles of which pass over the layer of oil floating on the top. The oil and the acids are immediately mixed as much as possible with a glass stick. In about five minutes the two liquids separate, and they are again mixed by shaking. The glass is then left at rest in a cool place with a temperature of 12° to 15° C. (54° to 59° Fah.), and separation again takes place, the nitric acid being of a blue colour, in consequence of the formation of nitrate of copper (NO3)2 Cu.

The oil then collects into a mass with a rapidity proportioned to its purity, the elaidine being not only firm but perfectly white. When olive oil is mixed with other oils the formation of elaidine is slower, and the substance obtained is more or less brown or yellow.

- Technologiste, from Deutsch. Chem. Gesellschaft, 1875.

Inks for Topography, Lithography, Chromolithography, and Autography.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

In the manufacture of inks for the above purposes Messrs. PERSOZ and JEANNOLLE make use of the heavy oils and pitch obtained from tar, but especially those from coal-tar, which has hitherto been one of the most troublesome residues in gas-works. Experiment has proved that these oils, properly thickened, possess qualities suitable for printing. They have a certain degree of consistence, and combine well with soot and other dry coloured powders. When applied as ink, they do not stain through the paper or beyond the line of the impression as rich oils do which have not undergone a special preparation, and they may therefore be usefully employed instead of such oils, either wholly or partly, according to the nature of the product to be obtained.

When printing-ink is to be prepared, use may be made of the substances known by the name of evaporated tar or liquid pitch, with which a useful black ink may be obtained by simply thickening them with a suitable proportion of soot and Prussian blue, or other substances capable of supplying the tint that is wanted. The following recipe gives satisfactory results:–
Liquid pitch ... 100 parts
Soot ... 36 "
Prussian blue ... 10 "
Glycerine ... 10 "

For preparing coloured inks use may be made of heavy oils, freed as much as possible from tarry substances, which would give them a brown shade, and coloured powders should be mixed with the oils. Heavy oils or pitch may also be used for lithography, chromolithography, and autography. Of course variable proportions of rich drying oils, or even grease and resin, should be added, according to the purpose for which the ink is to be used.

- Moniteur Industriel Belge, Jan. 1st, 1876.

14.10.21

Treatment of Indigo-bearing Plants.

Practical Magazine 14, 1876

(Chemistry applied to the Arts, Manufactures, &c.
Dyeing, Calico Printing, Bleaching, Tanning, and Allied Subjects.)

Plants which produce this colouring matter are plunged in vats till the water has deprived them of it to a great extent, and the liquid is then evaporated to obtain the indigo. A pretty high temperature is necessary during this steeping; but hitherto no use has been made of artificial heat, as it has been thought that the temperature of the surrounding air, which is generally high in the countries where this industry is carried on, is sufficient for the purpose.

Mr. OLPHERTs has tried the use of steam, and the results of his experiments in India, with rather rude apparatus, appear to warrant the change. The temperature of the water in the rainy season varies from 92° to 95° Fahr. In the vats it has been raised to 111°, and, in spite of the difficulties attending the new process, an increase of produce has been obtained of about 25 per cent. in comparison with plants of the same crop, steeped in the same vats, the same day, and for the same length of time.

Heat has also been applied during the beating, and good results have been obtained without injuring the colour or quantities of the indigo. Moreover, a fresh steeping for forty hours of plants treated with artificial heat gave no indigo, while those subjected to the ordinary process still retained some.

- Technologiste

13.10.21

XIX. Extract of a Memoir on the Cultivation of the Indigo-Plant, and the Preparation of Indigo.

The Repertory of Arts and Manufactures, Vol. 16, 1802

By Citizen BRULLEY.

Read at a public Meeting of the Lyceum of Arts.

Indigo is known to he a precipitated fecula, dried and reduced into a solid mass, light, brittle, and of a very deep azure colour. This substance is of great utility in the arts. A great consumption is made of it in dyeing, painting, bleaching, and other processes of different manufactures.

The vegetable which produces this colouring fecula is termed the indigo-plant, indigo-fera. It is of the genus of the polypetal plants, of the family of the leguminous, and has much refemblance with the Galegas.

There are twenty-seven species of indigo-plants. To enumerate their differences and describe their botanical characters would be superfluous. It will be sufficient to direct our attention to the most interesting species, namely that which yields the best indigo. It is termed indigo-franc, indigo-fera anil. It is indigenous in America; and is cultivated with success in the Southern parts of this country, and in the Antilles. In the islands is found a variety of the best species of indigo, whichg rows to twice the height of the indigo-franc. It is termed the wild indigo-plant or maron.

It is to be remarked, that in the French colonies in the Antilles, where fine indigo is prepared, the seed of the indigo-franc is purposely mixed with that of the indigo-maron, in order to obtain, a more considerable and better product. The purposes for which this mixture is made, as well as all the operations belonging to the cultivation of the indigo-plant, are related in a detailed memoir that has been laid before the Lyceum of Arts. For the present we shall confine ourselves to giving an account of an essential improvement, in the preparation of indigo.

It will undoubtedly be heard with astonishment, that though indigo has been manufactured during the space of nearly a century, its preparation still consists in such imperfect approximations, that, even with the best manufacturer, generally ten, fifteen, and even to the number of twenty-five tubs fail, out of a hundred which he undertakes. Sometimes even, either owing to want of experience or the contrarieties of temperature, a much larger number of tubs fail, and ruin the proprietor, who reckons upon large profits; hence in part arises the high price of indigo.

But should the proprietor of indigo-plants be secured, by means of a certain process, against the danger of losing the fruits of his expence and labour, he would then be able to fell his indigo at a cheaper rate. This would be a great advantage to the arts and manufactures, and consequently to the commerce of France.

This great advantage France will at force future period be able to enjoy, and the will owe it to the labours and intelligence of one of the colonial proprietors of St. Domingo, who is at present in France, and one of the free affociates of the Lyceum of Arts, I mean citizen Nazon. judicious observations and a long course of experience have convinced him that it is possible to allure the succeth of all the tubs of indigo.

In order to obtain this colouring substance, the indigo-plant is cut when it has arrived at its maturity. The whole is put to macerate in a batin of brick-work, which is termed the tub (cuve). Its dimensions are generally twelve feet.

To bring the maceration to its ultimate point, requires from fifteen to thirty and even thirty-six hours, more or less, according to the temperature of the atmosphere at the time when the operation is performed; it is also necessary to take into consideration the quality of the indigo-plant, the nature of the soil that has produced it, and that of the water in which it is immersed.

The first indication from which it is judged that the maceration begins to approach ultimate point, is the linking of the scum, which elevates itself in the space of about half a foot, which has been left empty in the tub, including the plants. When this calm has become a kind of crust of a copper-blue colour, the moment is concluded to be near at hand, at which the plants will be sufficiently macerated. However this indication is insufficient and often even fallacious. There is another upon which greater reliance is placed: it consists in drawing off a small quantity of the water by means of a cock placed at the lower part of the tub. It is received into a silver cup, and it is observed whether the fecula tends to precipitate itself to the bottom of the cup: when this is the case, it is concluded that the plants have attained that degree of maceration which is requisite for obtaining the indigo from them.

Such was the process most generally practised; but it too often gave rise to error. To avoid this we have a lure means, which consists in accurately observing the water contained in the cup: five or fix minutes after it has been poured into it, it forms round the sides of the cup a ring or edge of fecula, which at first is of a green colour and afterwards becomes blue. As long as the maceration has not yet been carried to the proper pitch, this ring detaches itself with difficulty from the sides of the cup. But at last it is seen to precipitate and concentrate itself at the bottom of the vessel, always towards the centre, under the water, which has become limpid, though with a yellowish tinge.

When these appearances are observed, they infallibly indicate the success of this first operation. The water is then drawn off into a second basin or tub, placed beneath the first. This second tub is termed batterie, as its use is for beating the water still charged with the fecula. In order that it may separate quickly, it is agitated. This operation is performed either by the labour of the hands, or by means of a mill. It is of essential consequence not to agitate it for too great a length of time: excessive agitation mixes anew the fecula with the water, from which it does not separate any more, and the tub fails. Instead of indigo, we obtain nothing but muddy water.

This latter inconvenience may easily be obviated by a little attention. When we have discovered that the fecula is sufficiently united, we draw off the water from the batterie into a third and smaller basin, which is termed the diablotin. We then find the bottom of the batterie covered with a very liquid blue paste; this is received into bags of coarse linen cloth, of the form of inverted cones, which suffer the watery part to run off. Thefe bags are afterwards emptied of their contents upon tables in the drying rooms, where this blue pafte is kneaded, and after it has acquired a denser consistence, it is spread out and cut into small squares, in order that it may dry the sooner. The manufacture of the indigo is now completed, and it is soon after sufficiently dry to be introduced into commerce.

I omit the details contained in a longer memoir, of which I confine myself to giving an extract. What was of importance to be made known, is that there exists a certain process; by following which one may be secure against failure in the manufacture of indigo.

Experience has shewn that this process has never failed of complete success; of this, more than fifteen-hundred tubs of indigo manufactured in different parts of St. Domingo, have furnished the proofs.

Byggdedräktsmötet i Bromarv.

Västra Nyland 5, 14.1.1928

Till det allmänna dräktsmöte, som utlysts i Hembygdens Väls lokal till den 0 dennes, hade många personer infunnit sig och blev diskussionen livlig. Mun förstod att mötets beslut skulle bliva bindande kanske för all framtid.

Sedan mötet valt ordförande och sekreterare refererade magister Yngvar Heikel, föreningen Brages sekr., frågan om en bygdedräkt för Bromarv. Han meddelade till först, att föreningen Brages dräktkomuiitté blivit ombetrodd vid allmänna diäktmöten i Helsingfors för hela Svensk-Finland att efterforska gamla bygdedräkter och där sådana ej kunde finnas mer, komponera nya sådana i samråd med resp. bygder. Dessa nya dräkter borde såvitt möjligt bygga på gamla för trakten bekanta färgmotiv, vara praktiska i användning samt vara vackra och i snittet gå i stil med andra historiskt, riktiga bygdedräkter. Referenten meddelade, att frågan om en Bromarv-dräkt varit under diskussion redan i flera år. Brages dräktkommitté hade en tid tänkt sig, att Bromarv, som tidigare- varit kapell under Tenala kunde använda Tenala-dräkteu, eller en något förändrad form av denna. Senare hade Brage frångått denna åsikt ock tänkt sig en alldeles ny dräkt. Ett dräktförslag från Bromarv fann [{råge ej vara utan en del brister. Tid Marthautställningen i Helsingfors visades ryor, vävda i Bromarv på slutet av 1700-talet. Deras varma färger ansågs kunna giva stoff till en dräkt för Bromarv. Mag. Heikel besökte så (dika delar av Bromarv för att personligen eiterforska olika dräkttyper från gångna år. Resultatet var synnerligen klent men intressant i alla fall, och meddelade han mötet, vad han funnit. Under samma resa tog han noggranna färgprover av ryorna och så sammanställde Brages dräktkommitté sitt förslag.

Efter en ingående livlig diskussion beslöt mötet enhälligt omfatta Brages förslag med blott obetydliga förändringar.

Bromarv kvinnodräkt blev alltså: Djupblått enfärgat livstycke utan ärmar, kjolens bottenfärg samma som livstyckets, men med tvenne slag av ränder i flera varma färger, precis i samma följd och ton, som de förekomma i ryorna. Styckemössa ljusröd eller ljusblå och broderad i rändernas färger. Vit blus av Tenala modell med hålsömn vid kragens och ärmlinningarnas kanter. Vitt förkläde med bred hålsöm, kjortelsäck, ljusröd och med ett band efter ett gammalt kjolband från Rilax. Över axlarna en vit ylleduk, handbroderad i kjolrändernas färger i mönster efter en gammal sjal från Kägra; vita strumpor samt svarta skor ocb spännen av Tenala modell, vit huckleduk kan användas i stället för styckemössan. Halsduken kan bortlämnas. Mansdräkten : Mörkblå i ock och knäbyxor i västnyländsk m.odell, vita eller grå strumpor, skor och spännen av Tenala modell( vit skjorta och rosett samt ~sidenbrännare" eller rund filthatt. Västen med blanka knappar blir randad med samma ränder som återfinnas i kvinnodräktens kjoltyg.

Till föreningen Brage och dess dräktkommitté och i synnerhet till magister Heikel framförde mötets ordförande alla närvarandes och hela Bromarvs tack för allt det arbete de utfört, och för mag. Heikels osparda möda för att få en dräkt för Bromarv till stånd. Många resor ha företagits, möten har hållits och talrika tygprover hava vävts för denna Bromarv-dräkt.

Till att justera protokollet valdes fru Hildur Strandberg och frk. M. Sundström.

Ett dussin kvinnodräkter och några mansdräkter beställdes genast, och uppmanar mag. Heikel alla dem, som vilja ha en dräkt att snart anmäla sig, så att dessa kunna få tygerna och garnen av den första snart förekommande färgningen. Alla upplysningar meddelar Brage och de som voro närvarande vid mötet.

Det är något av havsvikarnas och -fjärdarnas djupblå i tygets färg och av sommarens färgprakt i kjoltygets ränder, dukens och styckemössans broderier och dessa färger äro ej greella, utan klara och milda, såsom man förr fick dem med växtfärgämnen. Må vi hoppas, att dessa dräkter skola bliva omtyckta här och överallt i Svensk-Finland.

- H:ö.

11.10.21

Fashion.

The Living age 623, 3.5.1856

[Extracts from the New Edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica, made by The Atheneum.]

WE would select — as a specimen of the shorter class of articles — the brief account of Fashion. It bears the initials J. D—R—n, which we cannot be wrong in aasigning to our pleasant friend Dr. Doran.

From this article we will extract a few amusing paragraphs. Here is the learned Doctor's account of "fashion":

"It was the ordinary remark of the fashionable Dr. Graham (in the days of Horace Walpole), when consulted by a patient: 'Sir, your disease is very extraordinary, but it is common enough.' This paradoxical definition may be very well applied as interpreting the word 'Fashion.' The latter is douhtleat an extraordinary thing commonly adopted. It will seem still further paradoxical to assert that what is fashionable 'is vulgar'; hut, when it is recollected that 'vulgar' implies something popularly observed (the word being derived from 'volk,' people), the paradox is no longer apparent. The Latin terms, vulgus and vulgaris, like our own translations of them, are not intended to convey anything complimentary in them. The designation vulgus was contemptuously flung at the ancient Germans by their Roman antagonists. The sons of Herman accepted the name, and the German 'volk' soon became the fashionable or popular equivalent for 'patriots.' In the term 'mode' we have something of a similar meaning. It is derived from mos, a manner or custom. This word in its plural form, mores, signifies 'morals,' by which is meant manners, which, if not, ought to be, in fashion. As in Latin the difference of number alters the signification, so in French does the change of gender. 'Le moral,' of a woman, is, for instance, by no means the same thing as 'sa morale.' In deriving mode from 'mos,' we follow the lexicographer Boiste. We may add, however, that another Latin word, 'modus,' is not altogether to be set aside as the original of 'mode.' It implies a due proportion, neither more nor less; a just measure or manner: and to be in the mode, according to this rendering of the original, is not to be extravagant, not to be in excess in anything. He who adopts this mode, will find himself possessed of the most valuable of fashions — the true 'factio nobilium'; although Livy had not the same application in his mind when he wrote the words just quoted."

Afterwards we find examples of the caprices of fashion:
"Some one has defined 'fashion' as being the tyrant of fops and females.' The definer might have added that the artificers in fashion's service are often the victims of fashion's slaves. There is nothing so powerful, so absolute, so imperious, and so transitory, as this same fashion. Napoleon himself was jealous even of this so-called goddess; and he condescended to sneer at her votaries, by saying that nations are sheep-like, and ready to follow the first who sets a strange example. The simile is ricketty, and is not entirely correct. We have never heard of any one who followed the fashion set and advocated by Aeclepiades, who tried to bring cheap locomotion into general favor, and who travelled about the world on a cow, living on her milk by the way. The above is an example set, which has never been followed. We may cite, on the other hand, a fashion followed, the originating example for which no one has yet discovered. We allude to 'smoking.' Of course, at this word, the thoughts naturally revert to Sir Walter Raleigh and Virginian tobacco. There were pipes, however, in our old monasteries, and the monks smoked 'colt's-foot' to keep the marsh air out of their stomachs. The fashion is probably of Eastern origin. That mention is not made thereof throughout the 'Arabian Nights' is no proof to the contrary, for we believe that in that picturesque series the undeniably prevalent Eastern fashion of opium-eating is not even alluded to. Fashion, in its sense of the way of doing a thing, is not confined to matters of dress alone. It extends itself to far sublimer subjects, rules our manner of life, give opinions to those who have none of their own, and is sometimes powerful even in articulo mortis. As a sample of the last, it is only necessary to name the case of Father Sachot, the priest of St. Gervais. In the middle of the seventeenth century he was the fashionable confessor at death-beds. Happy was the moribund who could secure the pleasant presence of the not too exacting Father Sachot. On the other hand, the patients on whom he could not wait, and who were unable to receive absolution at his hands, were miserable, and obstinately refused to die with solemn aid from any other hand. Men 'of quality' — as it was, and is, the had fashion to call a certain class of persons, without reference to the question of good or evil quality — men of' quality thought more of Father Sachot than of their heavenly Father. A similar mistake possessed those who, in our great-grandsires' days, flung away their thousands upon a flower. The Egyptians worshipped onions, for the semi-reasonahle cause that they symbolized a god. The tulipfanciers had Tittle regard, when contemplating their petalled favorites, for either flowers themselves or the god at whore bidding they had risen into beauty. As La Bruyère remarks, they simply worshipped their tulip-bulbs, and would have adored carnations if carnations bad been more in fashion. As in flowers, so have we had a fashion in colors. The 'couleur Isabelle' was a dirty huff. It was adopted in honorable memory of the condition of the linen of Isabelle, the gouvernante of Flanders, who refused to change any portion of her dress during the long protracted siege of Ostend. The 'patches' on the cheeks of the belles of a century and a half ago, were assumed in order to give consolation to a princes suffering from a natural eruption. There was more sense in the fashion or patches as adopted by the lightly-clad ladies of the Samoa Island. This 'fashion of spots,' as t is called, or sangisengi, consists in the raising of small blisters with a smouldering wick of native cloth, a material which will not blaze. When the blisters are healed, a natural patch is left, which is lighter than the original skin. This indelible spot is planted on the cheek, not for beauty's sake, but with something of the purpose which supplies our churches with painted windows; namely, in pious memory of deceased relatives, or in grateful acknowledgment of benefits received."

Dress is a great topic, as Dr. Doran has well proved. And, as fashion concerns itself very deeply with the outward habit, we will quote the following from the Doctor's amusing gossip:
"The most pious of men, it may be observed, were not above some regard for fashion, even with reference to very small natters. Thus, in the days of Elizabeth and James, no Puritan divine ever went to bed but with his head in a night-cap of black silk tipped with white. Under the same sovereigns, doctors of medicine and privy councillors sank to sleep in night-caps wrought with gold silk. Similar head-gear was worn by our princes. At the marriage of Frederick Prince of Wales, the ill-conditioned son of the worse-conditioned George II., the royal bridegroom was splendid at night in his robe of gold tissue, and a night-ccap wrought with gold silk. Thus attired, lie glided among the crowd of fashionable people who stood in the bedroom to greet the illustrious pair; and with this marriage went out the unseemly fashion of ouch public greetings. We have before alluded to the long prevalence of some fashions. We are inclined to think that the excessive growth of the nails, as indications of rank (the wearers of them being necesserily above manual labor), a fashion not confined to China, but followed also in Upper Nubia, whore the growth is encouraged by holding the nails over small fires of cedar wood; we are inclined, we say, to think that such fashion, if it does not data from the time of Adam, prevails in the localities named, only because of him. There is, at all events, a Rabbinical tradition which says that, before the fall, Adam and Eve had a transparent covering, a robe of light, of which remnants remain to mankind in the nails of the hands and feet. To encourage the growth of the nail was, probably, in its original sense, only to recover as much as pomible of the robe of light which decked the forms of the parents of mankind. Did the old British astronomers wear green robes with any reference to the older legend in the East, that the original color of the father and mother of men was a sea-green? That color is said to have been sacred in the East long before the time in which the Prophet of Islam adopted it as the holy hue, which none might thenceforth wear save the members of his own family; and the fashion may have been adopted by the father of the faithful in remembrance of its traditionary connection with the father of us all. Tho green, for dress, whether as assumed by British astronomer or prophet from Yemen, was in better taste than a mode of our Saxon ladies, who, before the Norman invasion, thought they heightened their beauty by dyeing their hair blue! They seldom, however, changed the fashion of their garments according to the variation of the seaeons. The summers then, as now, seldom came to maturity, and it was this fact which induced Boerhaave to prescribe the old Saxon custom as a good sanitary fashion. 'In England,' said Boerhaave, 'a man should never lay aside his winter costume until Midsummer-day, and he should put it on again the day after.' If this fashion, with some necessary modification, were adopted, one happy consequence would undoubtedly follow; phthisis would not be the fashionable, or rather national, malady of England. Madam Cottin, in her 'Mathilde', says that modesty is the most seductive of garments. The assertion is one made in the fashion of the good ladies of the but century, who thought themselves moralists. They all err in their mode of giving a meretricious recommendation to modesty; and the too-joyous Irish bard was not much more sillily employed, when he anathematized flannel and sought to give éclat to the ague."