The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Use eight pounds of quercitron bark, to six of muriate of tin, six pounds of alum, and four pounds of white tartar, for cloth as before. The alum and tartar render the yellow more delicate, and give it more of the lemon or greenish tinge; where this is wanted in the greatest perfection proceed as follows:
Take ten pounds of bark, ten of muriate of tin, or murio-sulphate of tin, ten of alum, and ten of tartar. For cloth three or four times the quantity of the preceding processes may be taken, namely three or four hundred pounds.
In this process the bark must be boiled fifteen minutes in water only, and then the other ingredients be added and mixed in the liquor by stirring. The cloth is next to be put into it, the liquor being first cooled a little; it is then immediately to be turned briskly on the winch till the colour is sufficiently raised.
When a variety of shades are wanted, in working the bark, (contrary to the processes for many other colours) the higher shades should, in this colour, be dyed first, and the weaker afterwards. When about two-thirds of the quantity of the cloth have been dyed, it will be generally found that the liquor, by continuing to extract colouring matter from the bark, has acquired an over proportion, and wants a small quantity of muriate of tin, of alum, and of tartar, perhaps a pound of each, to enable the bark at last, as well as at first, to give the same delicate, pale and greenish tinge. A surer way, however, is to boil the bark in a small quantity of water, separately, for six or eight minutes; and then to add to it the solution of tin, alum, and tartar, and boil them with the bark together for fifteen minutes, and then damp the fire; then have the cloth in a proper sized vessel, supplied with boiling water, and the cloth moving on the winch; after it has gone a feW turns round, and is thoroughly wetted out (which it should be before, and now again) lest any part should be dry, add the supplies of the yellow liquor above described, by little and little as they may be wanted: in this way expectation is surpassed by the beauty produced.
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28.2.15
27.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. On the yellow of Quercitron bark.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The quercitron bark is said to yield from eight to ten times more colour than weld, and about four times more than old fustic; this was, however, Dr. Bancroft's account, who had a strong interest in this dyeing drug, as stated in the first Chapter . He also asserts, that one pound of bark with muriate of tin, will dye forty pounds of woollen a bright golden yellow, which afterwards becomes a beautiful and durable scarlet, with a fourth part less cochineal than is usually employed on other occasions for such a colour. But Bancroft did not succeed in doing away the old method of saving tartar and cochineal.
His fullest yellow upon cloth, the author has, however, often tried and found it rich and golden; the process is
as follows:
Cloth one hundred pounds; bark in powder, and in a bag, ten pounds; muriate of tin, or murio-sulphate of tin, (for which see forward,) ten pounds. The bark in the bag must be first immersed in the proper sized vessel for six or eight minutes; then add the solution of tin and stir it well for two or three minutes, when the cloth must be put in, and kept in motion by two or three men working over the winch from end to end; then proceed to boil; and, m fifteen minutes boiling, the highest yellow is produced; a longer time would turn the yellow brown.
When a very bright yellow, approaching less to orange, is wanted, seven or eight pounds of solution of tin, five pounds of alum, and ten pounds of bark, will do for a hundred pounds of cloth. In this process, boil the bark first in a bag for a few minutes, then add the solution of tin and the alum, and the cloth afterwards, as before directed; less body requires less quantities of course.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The quercitron bark is said to yield from eight to ten times more colour than weld, and about four times more than old fustic; this was, however, Dr. Bancroft's account, who had a strong interest in this dyeing drug, as stated in the first Chapter . He also asserts, that one pound of bark with muriate of tin, will dye forty pounds of woollen a bright golden yellow, which afterwards becomes a beautiful and durable scarlet, with a fourth part less cochineal than is usually employed on other occasions for such a colour. But Bancroft did not succeed in doing away the old method of saving tartar and cochineal.
His fullest yellow upon cloth, the author has, however, often tried and found it rich and golden; the process is
as follows:
Cloth one hundred pounds; bark in powder, and in a bag, ten pounds; muriate of tin, or murio-sulphate of tin, (for which see forward,) ten pounds. The bark in the bag must be first immersed in the proper sized vessel for six or eight minutes; then add the solution of tin and stir it well for two or three minutes, when the cloth must be put in, and kept in motion by two or three men working over the winch from end to end; then proceed to boil; and, m fifteen minutes boiling, the highest yellow is produced; a longer time would turn the yellow brown.
When a very bright yellow, approaching less to orange, is wanted, seven or eight pounds of solution of tin, five pounds of alum, and ten pounds of bark, will do for a hundred pounds of cloth. In this process, boil the bark first in a bag for a few minutes, then add the solution of tin and the alum, and the cloth afterwards, as before directed; less body requires less quantities of course.
26.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. On browns, fawns, greys, &c.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Browns and Fawns owe, in all probability, their colour to the iron which their dyes contain. Iron is so universally diffused throughout nature, that it, very likely, enters into the composition of many other colours; it exists in blood, in water, and in innumerable vegetable and animal substances, as well as in earths and many minerals. Hence we ought not to be surprised that blue, red, and fawn produce olives from the darkest to the lightest; as well as slate and lavender when the shade is very light.
Fawn and yellow produce the feuille-morte or dead-leaf.
Fawn and red produce cinnamon, tobacco, chestnut, &c.
Fawn and black produce coffee, maroon, &c.
Blue, yellow, and black produce all the dark greens, even to black.
Blue, fawn, and black produce dark olives and greenish greys. Red, yellow, and fawn produce orange, gold colour, withered-leaf, carnation, burnt cinnamon and tobacco colours of all kinds.
Yellows, fawn, and black produce hair colour, nutbrown, &c.
This enumeration is meant only to give a general idea of the ingredients proper for the production of shades composed of several colours.
Where red forms a component part of the colour wanted, the goods must have a preparation of alum and argol, strong or weak, according to the fulness or weakness of the red which forms a part of the compound dye, such as the half or quarter of the quantity which is required for a full colour of red; the same as to yellow, and, in proportion, when red and yellow are joined.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Browns and Fawns owe, in all probability, their colour to the iron which their dyes contain. Iron is so universally diffused throughout nature, that it, very likely, enters into the composition of many other colours; it exists in blood, in water, and in innumerable vegetable and animal substances, as well as in earths and many minerals. Hence we ought not to be surprised that blue, red, and fawn produce olives from the darkest to the lightest; as well as slate and lavender when the shade is very light.
Fawn and yellow produce the feuille-morte or dead-leaf.
Fawn and red produce cinnamon, tobacco, chestnut, &c.
Fawn and black produce coffee, maroon, &c.
Blue, yellow, and black produce all the dark greens, even to black.
Blue, fawn, and black produce dark olives and greenish greys. Red, yellow, and fawn produce orange, gold colour, withered-leaf, carnation, burnt cinnamon and tobacco colours of all kinds.
Yellows, fawn, and black produce hair colour, nutbrown, &c.
This enumeration is meant only to give a general idea of the ingredients proper for the production of shades composed of several colours.
Where red forms a component part of the colour wanted, the goods must have a preparation of alum and argol, strong or weak, according to the fulness or weakness of the red which forms a part of the compound dye, such as the half or quarter of the quantity which is required for a full colour of red; the same as to yellow, and, in proportion, when red and yellow are joined.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool a grey. Mixture of black or grey with red and blue.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To dye wool a grey.
All greys, from the darkest to the lightest, are composed of black in varying proportions. They are of great use in dyeing, not only for their own colours, but also when applied to other colours, which operation is called saddening or darkening.
Some greys have a woad ground of blue, then of log-wood, sumach or sulphate of iron, of which decoctions of the three last, for expedition, should be in readiness when wanted. When a succession of light shades, in particular, is required, in some instances the chemic blue is used: when we treat of the mixture of black, or rather grey with red and blue, the utility of grey will be seen.
Mixture of black or grey with red and blue.
These produce an mfinite number of all shades of grey as sage grey, slate and lead colour, and others still darker.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To dye wool a grey.
All greys, from the darkest to the lightest, are composed of black in varying proportions. They are of great use in dyeing, not only for their own colours, but also when applied to other colours, which operation is called saddening or darkening.
Some greys have a woad ground of blue, then of log-wood, sumach or sulphate of iron, of which decoctions of the three last, for expedition, should be in readiness when wanted. When a succession of light shades, in particular, is required, in some instances the chemic blue is used: when we treat of the mixture of black, or rather grey with red and blue, the utility of grey will be seen.
Mixture of black or grey with red and blue.
These produce an mfinite number of all shades of grey as sage grey, slate and lead colour, and others still darker.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. Another process for black without a blue ground.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To dye one hundred weight of cloth, take thirty pounds of chipped logwood, half a bushel of alder-bark, and six pounds of sumach, and boil them together in a proper quantity of water for half an hour; then cool the decoction down with cold water, enter the cloth, turning it on the winch; bring it to a boil, having the sumach in a bag; boil and keep the cloth turning for one hour and a half: this is the ground. Have now ready fourteen pounds of sulphate of iron dissolved in water, which is to be laded into the copper by one man, while another turns the cloth for an hour at a boiling heat; it is then to be taken out, cooled, and aired, returned to the copper, and boiled gently for two hours, and then cooled again.
"While the cloth is cooling, six pounds of logwood, ten pounds of alder-bark, two pounds of argol, ten of soda, or common pot-ashes, and three pounds of sulphate of iron, are to be added to the liquor in the copper, and boiled one hour, when the goods must be turned and worked one hour; and, lastly, taken out and aired. This black is said to be of the hue of a raven's feather. This process is from Heigh.
The argol is professed to be put in to counteract the sulphuric acid of the sulphate of iron; the alkali is said to cause the logwood to retain its natural violet colour: and if too great a quantity of logwood be not used, the result would be as above stated. But the author presumes that such a black would not be at this time much esteemed. We object to the introduction of so much, indeed of any alkali or argol, as the time employed in performing the process is wasted. Alkali is good, however, where a chemic green is to be dyed black.
Wool will take up whatever the copper contains necessary to dye black; but, for the beauty of the colour and the durability of the cloth, it is best to let it have most of its ground of vegetable colour before it has the sulphate of iron, which blackens that ground, with sumach instead of galls; and even in some instances, dyeing some goods without the sumach.
Were the author, however, to direct the dyeing of black cloth, such as should be of the best kind, he would have an indigo ground with logwood and alder-bark, without old fustic or oak saw-dust; and to finish the cloth he would use sumach, sulphate of iron, and a small quantity of verdigris. He would give it the blue ground first; then the logwood, alder-bark, and verdigris; and then finish it with sumach and sulphate of iron.
If the blue ground were omitted, he should dye the cloth twice, giving it more of logwood and alder-bark, but verdigris the same; and finish it with sumach and sulphate of iron. Nevertheless, when we dye to a pattern, the pattern must be our guide.
Different goods will require different quantities of drugs. Logwood should be about one-fourth of the weight of the goods; the sulphate of iron about one-fifth of the logwood; alder-bark, when used, about the same quantity as sulphate of iron; but for some yarns this bark is not used, nor is it necessary; and where fustic or oak saw-dust is used, there is the less necessity for using alder-bark. The sumach must be about the same quantity as sulphate of iron. Remember that carbon is generally considered as that which makes the richness of a dye. That it is the iron in the sulphate of iron, combined with the tannin and gallic acid which are assumed to be in the sumach and logwood, that produces the blackness of the dye; but this theory is questionable. See below.
The way to ascertain when the quantities of drugs are most appropriate for producing the desired effect is as follows: -
First, ground with different quantities of drugs, from three to five or seven patterns, and use from one third to one fifth of sulphate of iron and sumach to the grounding; afterwards finish with the remainder of the sulphate of iron and sumach: the fuller the ground the richer will be the black, if the logwood be not in excess, and the quantities be used as thus stated.
We ought also to state here (from Berthollet, Vol. ii. p. 4.) that commonly more simple processes than any of those above described are employed for black. Thus the blue cloth is simply turned through a bath of gall-nuts, when it is boiled for two hours. It is next passed through a bath of logwood and sulphate of iron for two hours without boiling, after which it is washed and fulled.
A black may also be dyed without a blue ground with walnut rinds or the roots of the walnut tree; in this case the cloth receives a dun ground from the walnut husks or roots, and is afterwards made black in the manner above described, with logwood and sulphate of iron.
The blacks, however, without the blue ground are only given in general to inferior cloths.
The colouring principle of logwood is called hematin; it is crystalline, of a rosy-white, and, viewed through a lens, very brilliant; its taste is slightly astringent, bitter and acrid; exposed to the action of fire in a retort it affords all the products of animal substances, and also a small quantity of ammonia, which proves that it contains nitrogen. It dissolves easily in boiling water; on adding some acid very gradually, it changes to yellow and then red. Potash and ammonia give the solution of hematin a purple red; if a great excess of these alkalies be added, the colour becomes violet-blue, then brown-red, and finally yellow-brown. In this state it is decomposed and cannot be recovered by any acids. Protoxide of lead, protoxide of tin, hydrate of tritoxide of iron, hydrate of copper, oxide of zinc and its hydrate, flowers of antimony and oxide of bismuth combine with hematin and give it a blue colour, with the loss of the violet shade. See notes to Ures Berthollet, Vol. ii. p. 420. See the explanation oi protoxide, &c. under oxide in Chapter I.
The above facts concerning logwood may, by the ingenious dyer, be applied on many occasions with great success.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To dye one hundred weight of cloth, take thirty pounds of chipped logwood, half a bushel of alder-bark, and six pounds of sumach, and boil them together in a proper quantity of water for half an hour; then cool the decoction down with cold water, enter the cloth, turning it on the winch; bring it to a boil, having the sumach in a bag; boil and keep the cloth turning for one hour and a half: this is the ground. Have now ready fourteen pounds of sulphate of iron dissolved in water, which is to be laded into the copper by one man, while another turns the cloth for an hour at a boiling heat; it is then to be taken out, cooled, and aired, returned to the copper, and boiled gently for two hours, and then cooled again.
"While the cloth is cooling, six pounds of logwood, ten pounds of alder-bark, two pounds of argol, ten of soda, or common pot-ashes, and three pounds of sulphate of iron, are to be added to the liquor in the copper, and boiled one hour, when the goods must be turned and worked one hour; and, lastly, taken out and aired. This black is said to be of the hue of a raven's feather. This process is from Heigh.
The argol is professed to be put in to counteract the sulphuric acid of the sulphate of iron; the alkali is said to cause the logwood to retain its natural violet colour: and if too great a quantity of logwood be not used, the result would be as above stated. But the author presumes that such a black would not be at this time much esteemed. We object to the introduction of so much, indeed of any alkali or argol, as the time employed in performing the process is wasted. Alkali is good, however, where a chemic green is to be dyed black.
Wool will take up whatever the copper contains necessary to dye black; but, for the beauty of the colour and the durability of the cloth, it is best to let it have most of its ground of vegetable colour before it has the sulphate of iron, which blackens that ground, with sumach instead of galls; and even in some instances, dyeing some goods without the sumach.
Were the author, however, to direct the dyeing of black cloth, such as should be of the best kind, he would have an indigo ground with logwood and alder-bark, without old fustic or oak saw-dust; and to finish the cloth he would use sumach, sulphate of iron, and a small quantity of verdigris. He would give it the blue ground first; then the logwood, alder-bark, and verdigris; and then finish it with sumach and sulphate of iron.
If the blue ground were omitted, he should dye the cloth twice, giving it more of logwood and alder-bark, but verdigris the same; and finish it with sumach and sulphate of iron. Nevertheless, when we dye to a pattern, the pattern must be our guide.
Different goods will require different quantities of drugs. Logwood should be about one-fourth of the weight of the goods; the sulphate of iron about one-fifth of the logwood; alder-bark, when used, about the same quantity as sulphate of iron; but for some yarns this bark is not used, nor is it necessary; and where fustic or oak saw-dust is used, there is the less necessity for using alder-bark. The sumach must be about the same quantity as sulphate of iron. Remember that carbon is generally considered as that which makes the richness of a dye. That it is the iron in the sulphate of iron, combined with the tannin and gallic acid which are assumed to be in the sumach and logwood, that produces the blackness of the dye; but this theory is questionable. See below.
The way to ascertain when the quantities of drugs are most appropriate for producing the desired effect is as follows: -
First, ground with different quantities of drugs, from three to five or seven patterns, and use from one third to one fifth of sulphate of iron and sumach to the grounding; afterwards finish with the remainder of the sulphate of iron and sumach: the fuller the ground the richer will be the black, if the logwood be not in excess, and the quantities be used as thus stated.
We ought also to state here (from Berthollet, Vol. ii. p. 4.) that commonly more simple processes than any of those above described are employed for black. Thus the blue cloth is simply turned through a bath of gall-nuts, when it is boiled for two hours. It is next passed through a bath of logwood and sulphate of iron for two hours without boiling, after which it is washed and fulled.
A black may also be dyed without a blue ground with walnut rinds or the roots of the walnut tree; in this case the cloth receives a dun ground from the walnut husks or roots, and is afterwards made black in the manner above described, with logwood and sulphate of iron.
The blacks, however, without the blue ground are only given in general to inferior cloths.
The colouring principle of logwood is called hematin; it is crystalline, of a rosy-white, and, viewed through a lens, very brilliant; its taste is slightly astringent, bitter and acrid; exposed to the action of fire in a retort it affords all the products of animal substances, and also a small quantity of ammonia, which proves that it contains nitrogen. It dissolves easily in boiling water; on adding some acid very gradually, it changes to yellow and then red. Potash and ammonia give the solution of hematin a purple red; if a great excess of these alkalies be added, the colour becomes violet-blue, then brown-red, and finally yellow-brown. In this state it is decomposed and cannot be recovered by any acids. Protoxide of lead, protoxide of tin, hydrate of tritoxide of iron, hydrate of copper, oxide of zinc and its hydrate, flowers of antimony and oxide of bismuth combine with hematin and give it a blue colour, with the loss of the violet shade. See notes to Ures Berthollet, Vol. ii. p. 420. See the explanation oi protoxide, &c. under oxide in Chapter I.
The above facts concerning logwood may, by the ingenious dyer, be applied on many occasions with great success.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool black.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
* It is necessary that the student should not confound the terms; primitive colours here with the prismatic or primary colours, for the discovery of which we are indebted to Sir Isaac Newton. See the Introductory Chapter.Black includes a prodigious number of shades, beginning from the lightest grey or pearl colour to the most intense shade of black. On account of these shades it is classed by dyers among their chief or primitive colours*; for the greater number of browns, of whatsoever shade they be, are finished in the same dye as would dye white wool a grey more or less dark. This operation is called browning. The best superfine black should have a full ground of mazarine blue previously to being finished black.
A great quantity of cloth and other articles have, however, no indigo ground, but a ground of logwood, or of logwood and alder-bark, or of logwood and old fustic, or of logwood, alder-bark, and old fustic, all boiled together, and sometimes they are boiled in a decoction of oak saw-dust.
Indigo for the ground is the richest drug, in carbon, that is or can be used; logwood is next to it: too much logwood, however, whether indigo be used with it or not, gives the black a foxy hue; alder-bark and old fustic modify this effect, and are used in small quantities for this purpose, because the dye from these, as well as that from oak saw-dust, will produce a soot or dead black.
A jet black is required full and rich, therefore old fustic and oak saw-dust are only used to modify the richness of the ground as it regards the blue, whether of indigo or of logwood; for logwood especially, without these, if overcome with sumach and sulphate of iron only, would be foxy, purplish, or have a reddish cast.
So many different grounds being used for blacks, and every dyer thinking his own the best, is the occasion of such a great variety of hues, even of black, being found in the market. It is, therefore, thought unnecessary to describe the various methods of dyeing black which are pursued by different dyers, and which would be, in fact, impossible. But the author has done what is of much greater importance to the student, who, after a little practice, let him have a pattern of black to dye, will know how to do it, let who may have dyed it.
Even a blue-ground is, according to some, dyed afterwards in a decoction of logwood and galls, or logwood and sumach, and two pounds of verdigris for a hundred pounds of cloth. Thus, ten pounds of logwood and ten of galls, are to form the decoction, and are boiled previously for twelve hours. One third of it with the verdigris is used first, and then the cloth, after boiling in it for two hours, is aired; it is then passed through one third more of the decoction of logwood and galls, having previously had eight pounds of sulphate of iron dissolved in it, and the scum arising from the solution taken off. The goods are to be worked in this one hour at a boiling heat, then aired again by turning them about on a stone floor. The remainder of the dedoction of logwood and galls is then added, with fifteen or twenty pounds of sumach; boil it some time, and then add five pounds of sulphate of iron; scum it, and let the liquor cool down, then put the goods in, and work them at a boiling heat an hour or two, taking them out once or twice, at least, in the time, to air and cool; they are then to be well washed, and passed through a decoction of weld liquor, to soften the black, which will be very fine. This process is chiefly from HcUot; but the quantity of sulphate of iron is more by three pounds than he directs.
When the cloth is blue, it is usually boiled two hours in a decoction of galls, then washed and aired, when sulphate of iron and logwood are added to the liquor, and the goods worked in it for two hours, and then washed.
The above have been the processes in practice for a century past in France, where the galls were not so dear as they now are in England: sumach is here, therefore, now most commonly used as a substitute for galls.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
* It is necessary that the student should not confound the terms; primitive colours here with the prismatic or primary colours, for the discovery of which we are indebted to Sir Isaac Newton. See the Introductory Chapter.Black includes a prodigious number of shades, beginning from the lightest grey or pearl colour to the most intense shade of black. On account of these shades it is classed by dyers among their chief or primitive colours*; for the greater number of browns, of whatsoever shade they be, are finished in the same dye as would dye white wool a grey more or less dark. This operation is called browning. The best superfine black should have a full ground of mazarine blue previously to being finished black.
A great quantity of cloth and other articles have, however, no indigo ground, but a ground of logwood, or of logwood and alder-bark, or of logwood and old fustic, or of logwood, alder-bark, and old fustic, all boiled together, and sometimes they are boiled in a decoction of oak saw-dust.
Indigo for the ground is the richest drug, in carbon, that is or can be used; logwood is next to it: too much logwood, however, whether indigo be used with it or not, gives the black a foxy hue; alder-bark and old fustic modify this effect, and are used in small quantities for this purpose, because the dye from these, as well as that from oak saw-dust, will produce a soot or dead black.
A jet black is required full and rich, therefore old fustic and oak saw-dust are only used to modify the richness of the ground as it regards the blue, whether of indigo or of logwood; for logwood especially, without these, if overcome with sumach and sulphate of iron only, would be foxy, purplish, or have a reddish cast.
So many different grounds being used for blacks, and every dyer thinking his own the best, is the occasion of such a great variety of hues, even of black, being found in the market. It is, therefore, thought unnecessary to describe the various methods of dyeing black which are pursued by different dyers, and which would be, in fact, impossible. But the author has done what is of much greater importance to the student, who, after a little practice, let him have a pattern of black to dye, will know how to do it, let who may have dyed it.
Even a blue-ground is, according to some, dyed afterwards in a decoction of logwood and galls, or logwood and sumach, and two pounds of verdigris for a hundred pounds of cloth. Thus, ten pounds of logwood and ten of galls, are to form the decoction, and are boiled previously for twelve hours. One third of it with the verdigris is used first, and then the cloth, after boiling in it for two hours, is aired; it is then passed through one third more of the decoction of logwood and galls, having previously had eight pounds of sulphate of iron dissolved in it, and the scum arising from the solution taken off. The goods are to be worked in this one hour at a boiling heat, then aired again by turning them about on a stone floor. The remainder of the dedoction of logwood and galls is then added, with fifteen or twenty pounds of sumach; boil it some time, and then add five pounds of sulphate of iron; scum it, and let the liquor cool down, then put the goods in, and work them at a boiling heat an hour or two, taking them out once or twice, at least, in the time, to air and cool; they are then to be well washed, and passed through a decoction of weld liquor, to soften the black, which will be very fine. This process is chiefly from HcUot; but the quantity of sulphate of iron is more by three pounds than he directs.
When the cloth is blue, it is usually boiled two hours in a decoction of galls, then washed and aired, when sulphate of iron and logwood are added to the liquor, and the goods worked in it for two hours, and then washed.
The above have been the processes in practice for a century past in France, where the galls were not so dear as they now are in England: sumach is here, therefore, now most commonly used as a substitute for galls.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. A chemic vat for blue woollen. To dye wool orange, gold colour, &c.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
A chemic vat for blue woollen.
This is to be made the same as for green; it need not be neutralized as for cotton. For blue, however, twelve ounces of indigo are necessary to four pounds of sulphuric acid. In dyeing the heat must be much under boiling, or the using of a high heat would give the blue a green tinge. This blue colour is very bright, yet not fast, but no preparation is of any advantage to either its fastness or brightness. Some put alum and tartar, and some use one, and some the other, to prevent a green cast: if, however, the wool be fine, white, and worked much helow the boiling point of heat, it will not turn green although neither be used.
To dye wool orange, gold colour, &c.
The processes of crimson, scarlet, and of yellow united produce the various shades of these colours, having archil out. See buff, peach, &c. on wool.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
A chemic vat for blue woollen.
This is to be made the same as for green; it need not be neutralized as for cotton. For blue, however, twelve ounces of indigo are necessary to four pounds of sulphuric acid. In dyeing the heat must be much under boiling, or the using of a high heat would give the blue a green tinge. This blue colour is very bright, yet not fast, but no preparation is of any advantage to either its fastness or brightness. Some put alum and tartar, and some use one, and some the other, to prevent a green cast: if, however, the wool be fine, white, and worked much helow the boiling point of heat, it will not turn green although neither be used.
To dye wool orange, gold colour, &c.
The processes of crimson, scarlet, and of yellow united produce the various shades of these colours, having archil out. See buff, peach, &c. on wool.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. A chemic vat for green woollen.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Prepare in the manner described for cotton, (page 52.) eight ounces of indigo and four pounds of sulphuric acid. This preparation need not, however, be neutralized for wool as described for cotton. In some instances the preparation is to be for the yellow of fustic one-twelfth of alum, the same quantity of tartar, and in some cases one-twelfth of alum only.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Prepare in the manner described for cotton, (page 52.) eight ounces of indigo and four pounds of sulphuric acid. This preparation need not, however, be neutralized for wool as described for cotton. In some instances the preparation is to be for the yellow of fustic one-twelfth of alum, the same quantity of tartar, and in some cases one-twelfth of alum only.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool green.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The shades of this colour are very numerous, as yellow green, pale green, bright green, grass green, laurel green, olive green, sea green, parrot green, cabbage green, duck's-wing green, &c.
The goods must first have a blue ground from the woad vat, light or full according to the pattern, they are afterwards to be prepared with alum and tartar, weak or strong according to the lightness or fulness of the pattern, and are afterwards dyed in weld liquor. Many of the shades of green are more readily done by dyeing the wool first yellow with old fustic, with a preparation of alum and tartar, and using the chemic blue vat made with sulphuric acid and indigo. See page 47.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The shades of this colour are very numerous, as yellow green, pale green, bright green, grass green, laurel green, olive green, sea green, parrot green, cabbage green, duck's-wing green, &c.
The goods must first have a blue ground from the woad vat, light or full according to the pattern, they are afterwards to be prepared with alum and tartar, weak or strong according to the lightness or fulness of the pattern, and are afterwards dyed in weld liquor. Many of the shades of green are more readily done by dyeing the wool first yellow with old fustic, with a preparation of alum and tartar, and using the chemic blue vat made with sulphuric acid and indigo. See page 47.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool purple, &c.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Pass the goods through archil, next through the blue vat, with the usual precautions, then through hot water. For some shades they should be alumed, and then dyed with cochineal for the crimson part of the purple. Blue and crimson make purple, violet, &c. according to the patterns required.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Pass the goods through archil, next through the blue vat, with the usual precautions, then through hot water. For some shades they should be alumed, and then dyed with cochineal for the crimson part of the purple. Blue and crimson make purple, violet, &c. according to the patterns required.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool brown or of a fawn colour.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
These shades are extremely various, and are dyed without any preparation with alder-bark, red sanders, sumach, galls, madder, &c. and under a boiling heat, although it is occasionally necessary to boil some of the ingredients together previous to the dyeing: for instance, red sanders will give its colour out best when boiled with galls, alderbark, sumach, &c. Cam-wood, bar-wood, walnut rinds, roots, &c. are used in some of these shades, the varieties of which are almost infinite. Practice is required in this branch of dyeing equal to or beyond any other.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
These shades are extremely various, and are dyed without any preparation with alder-bark, red sanders, sumach, galls, madder, &c. and under a boiling heat, although it is occasionally necessary to boil some of the ingredients together previous to the dyeing: for instance, red sanders will give its colour out best when boiled with galls, alderbark, sumach, &c. Cam-wood, bar-wood, walnut rinds, roots, &c. are used in some of these shades, the varieties of which are almost infinite. Practice is required in this branch of dyeing equal to or beyond any other.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool yellow
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The proportion of alum used by dyers in these processes varies from one-fourth down to one-twelfth, of tartar one-sixteenth is used, for every pound of cloth. Equal parts of alum and tartar are used for worsted and yarn, each of which (alum and tartar) is only from one-twelfth to one-tenth of the weight of the material to be dyed.
The shades of yellow are straw yellow, pale yellow, lemon yellow, and full yellow.
In order that the cloth should be properly impregnated with the mordants of alum and tartar, according to what is allotted to the shade, whether light or full, it should be boiled in the preparation at least one hour; two hours for a full yellow; then a fresh liquor is to be made to receive the weld, which must be previously boiled: for a full yellow four or five pounds of weld will be required to one pound of cloth or worsted; for the lighter shades less of course: but a sufficient quantity only of weld should be used, and this should be boiled and re-boiled, as it will keep but a very little time after boiling. If you have a gradation of shades you will save drugs and expense by dyeing the fiillest shades first, and the lightest last; but by this method the lightest will not be so bright as if they were done first, and the liquor renewed with fresh boiled weld, and so on to the fullest shade. At last you must have for the goods a preparation weak or strong according to the light or full colour of which they are to be. The last dyeing, whether of cloth or yarn, will assuredly take all the colour out of the liquor of any consequence.
While expense is not an object, it is best, not only for yellows, but for all other colours, to have the preparation and the dye proportioned to the shade, the colour done at once, and the remaining liquor thrown away; but as the price usually paid for dyeing will not enable the dyer so to do, he commonly dyes his shades in succession, as above, and with the utmost economy.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The proportion of alum used by dyers in these processes varies from one-fourth down to one-twelfth, of tartar one-sixteenth is used, for every pound of cloth. Equal parts of alum and tartar are used for worsted and yarn, each of which (alum and tartar) is only from one-twelfth to one-tenth of the weight of the material to be dyed.
The shades of yellow are straw yellow, pale yellow, lemon yellow, and full yellow.
In order that the cloth should be properly impregnated with the mordants of alum and tartar, according to what is allotted to the shade, whether light or full, it should be boiled in the preparation at least one hour; two hours for a full yellow; then a fresh liquor is to be made to receive the weld, which must be previously boiled: for a full yellow four or five pounds of weld will be required to one pound of cloth or worsted; for the lighter shades less of course: but a sufficient quantity only of weld should be used, and this should be boiled and re-boiled, as it will keep but a very little time after boiling. If you have a gradation of shades you will save drugs and expense by dyeing the fiillest shades first, and the lightest last; but by this method the lightest will not be so bright as if they were done first, and the liquor renewed with fresh boiled weld, and so on to the fullest shade. At last you must have for the goods a preparation weak or strong according to the light or full colour of which they are to be. The last dyeing, whether of cloth or yarn, will assuredly take all the colour out of the liquor of any consequence.
While expense is not an object, it is best, not only for yellows, but for all other colours, to have the preparation and the dye proportioned to the shade, the colour done at once, and the remaining liquor thrown away; but as the price usually paid for dyeing will not enable the dyer so to do, he commonly dyes his shades in succession, as above, and with the utmost economy.
25.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool maroon
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The worsted or yarn must be boiled for an hour or two in one twelfth its weight of alum and the same quantity of white argol. It is best, when there is a large quantity of yarn, to do this on the preceding day: if your copper hold a pack of two hundred and forty pounds, it will be cold enough to handle after remaining with the fire out during the night.
When the skeins, &c. are taken out and arranged upon poles or sticks, have a fresh water ready in the copper, into which put about thirty pounds of chipped peachwood, and when it has boiled half an hour, pour in some water to cool it down, and add fifteen pounds of crop madder; work the yarn in this liquor rather under a boiling heat. When it is full enough, for some shades you must add archil. As the whole pack is dyed at four or five turnings in, some of the parcels may be varied in the hues instead of confining them all to one shade. The various turnings will take the greater part of the day to perform. When you choose to have as many shades as there are turnings in, you divide the drugs into different portions for different periods of the time, to be used according to the patterns required. The most economical method of using the drugs being to follow the patterns one after the other: practice will teach the operator to do this most advantageously.
More madder than peach-wood gives a lively red; more peach-wood than madder gives a bright maroon red, bordering on crimson, but more so without any madder; with the addition of archil it gives a crimson, but by no means to be compared with the crimson of cochineal. Urine with the archil renders a less quantity of archil
necessary.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The worsted or yarn must be boiled for an hour or two in one twelfth its weight of alum and the same quantity of white argol. It is best, when there is a large quantity of yarn, to do this on the preceding day: if your copper hold a pack of two hundred and forty pounds, it will be cold enough to handle after remaining with the fire out during the night.
When the skeins, &c. are taken out and arranged upon poles or sticks, have a fresh water ready in the copper, into which put about thirty pounds of chipped peachwood, and when it has boiled half an hour, pour in some water to cool it down, and add fifteen pounds of crop madder; work the yarn in this liquor rather under a boiling heat. When it is full enough, for some shades you must add archil. As the whole pack is dyed at four or five turnings in, some of the parcels may be varied in the hues instead of confining them all to one shade. The various turnings will take the greater part of the day to perform. When you choose to have as many shades as there are turnings in, you divide the drugs into different portions for different periods of the time, to be used according to the patterns required. The most economical method of using the drugs being to follow the patterns one after the other: practice will teach the operator to do this most advantageously.
More madder than peach-wood gives a lively red; more peach-wood than madder gives a bright maroon red, bordering on crimson, but more so without any madder; with the addition of archil it gives a crimson, but by no means to be compared with the crimson of cochineal. Urine with the archil renders a less quantity of archil
necessary.
24.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. On dyeing wool scarlet.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Scarlet owes its beauty to a solution of tin in muriatic acid. For this purpose some use muriate of ammonia, commonly called sal-ammoniac, others use common salt.
It is of little consequence whether common salt or sal-ammoniac be used: different preparations are employed by different persons. The author has found the following to answer every expectation.
Melt an ounce of grain tin in an iron ladle, till an oxide is formed on the surface; then pour it from a height or distance into cold water. Pour the water from it, and it is fit for use, being then called feathered tin. Put this tin into a glass vessel or stone jar, and add to it eight ounces of nitric acid, eight ounces of water, half an ounce of sal-ammoniac, and two drachms of nitrate of potash. This preparation is better if made some time before it is used; it is a compound of nitrate and muriate of tin.
Should any one prefer a pure muriate of tin, the method of making it will be found in the last Chapter, in observations on crimson and scarlet upon silk.
Into a copper of cleared boiling water, the heat being reduced, and having the worsted wetted out ready; for every pound of which (dry) put two ounces of cream of tartar or white tartar in powder, and one drachm and a half of cochineal in powder. When the liquor is ready to boil, add two ounces and a half of the first-mentioned solution of tin, which immediately changes the colour; stir it well: as soon as the liquor boils put in the worsted, and boil it till the colour of the cochineal is taken up by it. The worsted must now be taken out, when it will be of a flesh-colour, the water in the copper having lost its colouring matter. To finish the worsted, another quantity of clean water is made warm, into which six drachms and a half of cochineal are to be put; just before it boils, two ounces of the same solution of tin are to be poured in, the liquor undergoing a similar change as before. The worsted is again put in, and boiled till it has imbibed the colour; it is then taken out, wrung, and rinsed in clean water, when the scarlet is in perfection.
One ounce of cochineal to a pound of wool, will impart a colour sufficiently deep, if managed according to the method above described, no colour being left in the remaining liquor.
For many shades of scarlet it will be, however, necessary, and, in a fresh liquor, to add either a certain portion of turmeric or young fustic, to give the scarlet that fiery red which some scarlets have. If not in an entire fresh liquor, a part of the old liquor must be taken out before the yellow is added.
When it is wished to dye a regular series of scarlet shades in worsted, half the quantity or less, for some of the lightest, will be sufficient of the solution of tin, the tartar, the cochineal, &c. The worsted should be separated into divisions corresponding with the shades required; the lightest is of course to be done first: if any deficiency be in the shade, it may have another dip. This deficiency is easily perceived, and a very little practice will enable the operator to assort them perfectly.
It should he noted, that the vessel most proper to dye scarlet in ought to be made of block tin; such as are used by the scarlet dyers for the East India Company.
When woollen cloth is to be dyed scarlet, to every hundred pounds of cloth put six pounds of tartar and eighteen pounds of the solution of tin at first; the same quantity in the completion; and in each operation, six pounds and a quarter of cochineal.
For the accommodation of those who would make small experiments, one ounce of cream of tartar, six ounces of solution of tin, and one ounce of cochineal, may be used for every pound of worsted or cloth, putting two-thirds of the solution of tin and the tartar, and a quarter of the cochineal, into the preparation, and the remainder to the completion.
Observe, that although we have given processes for dyeing woollen cloth crimson as well as scarlet, yet crimson may be obtained in another way: for alum, the salts in general with an earthy base, and the fixed and volatile alkalies, possess the property of changing the colour of scarlet into crimson, the natural colour of the cochineal. The cloth which is dyed scarlet has only to be boiled, therefore, for about an hour, in a solution, more or less charged with alum, according as a deeper or lighter crimson is wanted. When a piece of scarlet has any defects, it is set apart for crimson. Soap and potash will also produce crimson from scarlet, but not of so bright a colour as from alum. Hence also we learn the necessity, in, at any time, working scarlet cloth, to avoid boiling it with soap or pot-ash, &c. if we desire the scarlet to remain.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Scarlet owes its beauty to a solution of tin in muriatic acid. For this purpose some use muriate of ammonia, commonly called sal-ammoniac, others use common salt.
It is of little consequence whether common salt or sal-ammoniac be used: different preparations are employed by different persons. The author has found the following to answer every expectation.
Melt an ounce of grain tin in an iron ladle, till an oxide is formed on the surface; then pour it from a height or distance into cold water. Pour the water from it, and it is fit for use, being then called feathered tin. Put this tin into a glass vessel or stone jar, and add to it eight ounces of nitric acid, eight ounces of water, half an ounce of sal-ammoniac, and two drachms of nitrate of potash. This preparation is better if made some time before it is used; it is a compound of nitrate and muriate of tin.
Should any one prefer a pure muriate of tin, the method of making it will be found in the last Chapter, in observations on crimson and scarlet upon silk.
Into a copper of cleared boiling water, the heat being reduced, and having the worsted wetted out ready; for every pound of which (dry) put two ounces of cream of tartar or white tartar in powder, and one drachm and a half of cochineal in powder. When the liquor is ready to boil, add two ounces and a half of the first-mentioned solution of tin, which immediately changes the colour; stir it well: as soon as the liquor boils put in the worsted, and boil it till the colour of the cochineal is taken up by it. The worsted must now be taken out, when it will be of a flesh-colour, the water in the copper having lost its colouring matter. To finish the worsted, another quantity of clean water is made warm, into which six drachms and a half of cochineal are to be put; just before it boils, two ounces of the same solution of tin are to be poured in, the liquor undergoing a similar change as before. The worsted is again put in, and boiled till it has imbibed the colour; it is then taken out, wrung, and rinsed in clean water, when the scarlet is in perfection.
One ounce of cochineal to a pound of wool, will impart a colour sufficiently deep, if managed according to the method above described, no colour being left in the remaining liquor.
For many shades of scarlet it will be, however, necessary, and, in a fresh liquor, to add either a certain portion of turmeric or young fustic, to give the scarlet that fiery red which some scarlets have. If not in an entire fresh liquor, a part of the old liquor must be taken out before the yellow is added.
When it is wished to dye a regular series of scarlet shades in worsted, half the quantity or less, for some of the lightest, will be sufficient of the solution of tin, the tartar, the cochineal, &c. The worsted should be separated into divisions corresponding with the shades required; the lightest is of course to be done first: if any deficiency be in the shade, it may have another dip. This deficiency is easily perceived, and a very little practice will enable the operator to assort them perfectly.
It should he noted, that the vessel most proper to dye scarlet in ought to be made of block tin; such as are used by the scarlet dyers for the East India Company.
When woollen cloth is to be dyed scarlet, to every hundred pounds of cloth put six pounds of tartar and eighteen pounds of the solution of tin at first; the same quantity in the completion; and in each operation, six pounds and a quarter of cochineal.
For the accommodation of those who would make small experiments, one ounce of cream of tartar, six ounces of solution of tin, and one ounce of cochineal, may be used for every pound of worsted or cloth, putting two-thirds of the solution of tin and the tartar, and a quarter of the cochineal, into the preparation, and the remainder to the completion.
Observe, that although we have given processes for dyeing woollen cloth crimson as well as scarlet, yet crimson may be obtained in another way: for alum, the salts in general with an earthy base, and the fixed and volatile alkalies, possess the property of changing the colour of scarlet into crimson, the natural colour of the cochineal. The cloth which is dyed scarlet has only to be boiled, therefore, for about an hour, in a solution, more or less charged with alum, according as a deeper or lighter crimson is wanted. When a piece of scarlet has any defects, it is set apart for crimson. Soap and potash will also produce crimson from scarlet, but not of so bright a colour as from alum. Hence also we learn the necessity, in, at any time, working scarlet cloth, to avoid boiling it with soap or pot-ash, &c. if we desire the scarlet to remain.
23.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye worsted yarn a crimson. A preparation of archil to finish the crimson
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Proportion of wool, one pound; of alum, two ounces and a half; of white tartar in powder, one ounce and a half. Having the water properly cleared by bran, let the alum and tartar be boiled in it; when it begins to boil, stir the mixture well, and put in the worsted, which boil in the liquor for two hours; then prepare a fresh liquor for the cochineal, one ounce of which, in powder, is to be used for every pound of wool; when it begins to boil, stir it well, put in the worsted, and boil it till the liquor in the vessel is free from colour, it having parted with the colouring matter of the cochineal, which should now all be upon the worsted. If a series of shades be required, less quantities of cochineal, alum, and tartar, must be used; the lightest shade is dyed first.
The preparation of archil to finish the crimson.
Put as much archil as the goods may require, and according to the deepness or lightness of the shades of the crimson required, into a copper of water of a suitable size, and boil it, (the best canary archil will bear boiling); damp the fire, let the archil settle, and then have a fresh liquor for the goods to be put in, to receive a proportion of archil according to the pattern desired to be matched. Begin with the lightest and end with the deepest, reserving the remains of the archil liquor, if it be not all spent, for common compound colours of such shades as it will be advantageous to use it in. (See the next article.)
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Proportion of wool, one pound; of alum, two ounces and a half; of white tartar in powder, one ounce and a half. Having the water properly cleared by bran, let the alum and tartar be boiled in it; when it begins to boil, stir the mixture well, and put in the worsted, which boil in the liquor for two hours; then prepare a fresh liquor for the cochineal, one ounce of which, in powder, is to be used for every pound of wool; when it begins to boil, stir it well, put in the worsted, and boil it till the liquor in the vessel is free from colour, it having parted with the colouring matter of the cochineal, which should now all be upon the worsted. If a series of shades be required, less quantities of cochineal, alum, and tartar, must be used; the lightest shade is dyed first.
The preparation of archil to finish the crimson.
Put as much archil as the goods may require, and according to the deepness or lightness of the shades of the crimson required, into a copper of water of a suitable size, and boil it, (the best canary archil will bear boiling); damp the fire, let the archil settle, and then have a fresh liquor for the goods to be put in, to receive a proportion of archil according to the pattern desired to be matched. Begin with the lightest and end with the deepest, reserving the remains of the archil liquor, if it be not all spent, for common compound colours of such shades as it will be advantageous to use it in. (See the next article.)
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To dye wool with lac-dye, scarlet, or crimson
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
We have mentioned lac-lake and lac-dye in page 12. Lac-lake is of very uncertain quality, having many heterogeneous substances mixed with it. Lac-dye is very superior to lac-lake. Lac-dye is much used for dyeing woollen yarn scarlet -and crimson, for carpets and hearth-rugs. It is used with a peculiar spirit, which may be purchased of the dry-salters. Some think that this colouring material is nearly equal to cochineal; the author has, however, never seen any thing dyed with it equal to the colour obtained from cochineal, although it affords, nevertheless, a good scarlet.
Lac-dye is used by being powdered and put into a stone pan, (the quantity must be in proportion to what is likely to be used), with a portion of the above-named lac-spirit sufficient to make it about as fluid as treacle; it must be stirred with a glass-rod or a tobacco-pipe. Some use alum and tartar as a preparation, and some not. After putting the mixture of lac -lake and spirit in the copper with a proper quantity of water, add the goods and work them at a boiling heat. For scarlet add quercitron bark, for crimson, archil.
Lac-dye may be, however, prepared for dyeing, by submitting it, in powder, in a leaden vessel, to the action of sulphuric acid, in the proportion of not more than one part to two of the dye; and after the lac-dye is dissolved, the acid may be neutralized by carbonate of soda. With suitable mordants to the cloth or yarn, the colour may be then applied. Other processes for the employment of this dye are also adopted, but we have no room to detail them. (See Ure's Notes on Berthollet.)
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
We have mentioned lac-lake and lac-dye in page 12. Lac-lake is of very uncertain quality, having many heterogeneous substances mixed with it. Lac-dye is very superior to lac-lake. Lac-dye is much used for dyeing woollen yarn scarlet -and crimson, for carpets and hearth-rugs. It is used with a peculiar spirit, which may be purchased of the dry-salters. Some think that this colouring material is nearly equal to cochineal; the author has, however, never seen any thing dyed with it equal to the colour obtained from cochineal, although it affords, nevertheless, a good scarlet.
Lac-dye is used by being powdered and put into a stone pan, (the quantity must be in proportion to what is likely to be used), with a portion of the above-named lac-spirit sufficient to make it about as fluid as treacle; it must be stirred with a glass-rod or a tobacco-pipe. Some use alum and tartar as a preparation, and some not. After putting the mixture of lac -lake and spirit in the copper with a proper quantity of water, add the goods and work them at a boiling heat. For scarlet add quercitron bark, for crimson, archil.
Lac-dye may be, however, prepared for dyeing, by submitting it, in powder, in a leaden vessel, to the action of sulphuric acid, in the proportion of not more than one part to two of the dye; and after the lac-dye is dissolved, the acid may be neutralized by carbonate of soda. With suitable mordants to the cloth or yarn, the colour may be then applied. Other processes for the employment of this dye are also adopted, but we have no room to detail them. (See Ure's Notes on Berthollet.)
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. Methods of dyeing blues
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Whether the goods be cloth, or skeins of yarn, they must, in all cases, be first wetted out and wrung, and then put into the vat, worked in it, taken out and aired, that they may turn from green to blue; and, if necessary, they must be put in again.
There is no difficulty in dyeing dark blues, by repeated dippings; but if light blues be dyed in vats which are nearly exhausted, they will not be bright.
Blue vats, upon a large scale, are now mostly heated by steam; they are then, with little trouble, always in a state for working, without the necessity of re-heating. They are very convenient for light colours, even after they become very weak. In some instances, in order to dye light colours to the best advantage, it would be advisable to set a vat on purpose, which should be strong in woad and weak in indigo; because the colour would be given more slowly, and the light colour obtained from them with much more facility.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Whether the goods be cloth, or skeins of yarn, they must, in all cases, be first wetted out and wrung, and then put into the vat, worked in it, taken out and aired, that they may turn from green to blue; and, if necessary, they must be put in again.
There is no difficulty in dyeing dark blues, by repeated dippings; but if light blues be dyed in vats which are nearly exhausted, they will not be bright.
Blue vats, upon a large scale, are now mostly heated by steam; they are then, with little trouble, always in a state for working, without the necessity of re-heating. They are very convenient for light colours, even after they become very weak. In some instances, in order to dye light colours to the best advantage, it would be advisable to set a vat on purpose, which should be strong in woad and weak in indigo; because the colour would be given more slowly, and the light colour obtained from them with much more facility.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. On the putrefaction of the woad vat
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Whatever be the cause, most certain it is, that the woad vat, even when prepared in the most careful and scientific manner, is soon disposed, if not used, to go into the putrid fermentation; of this we may be satisfied, when it smells like rotten eggs, as stated above.
The loss of a woad vat to dyers is extremely serious, both from the quantity of woad, as well as of indigo, which it contains: these articles being always expensive. The woad vat being worked by heat directly applied from an open fire, (the old method of heating it,) was much more liable to be lost than if it remained cold, or was worked continually, as it usually now is in London; added to which, the more equable application of heat by steam, there is not now the danger which there was in cessation, at uncertain times, and in uncertain states of the vat, as to richness or poorness of woad or of indigo.
But a dyer in the country, whose business is barely sufficient to keep a vat going, will find more difficulty in this respect. If, therefore, he does a small batch of work on Monday, but has not half worked down his vat, and has no prospect for two or three days of doing any more work, he may possibly try to keep it with lime for a day or two: he may do so, and in the issue, in some instances, too much lime is the consequence. We consider, however, that when the vat can be worked daily, and replenished as it is worked down, as is the case in London, with care and attention, there is no danger of the loss of a woad vat: in London, such an accident now seldom happens. The author is, notwithstanding, persuaded that all the art of man cannot always keep a vat from the state of having either too much or too little lime, when heated but seldom, under a short course of work: for when a vat is in order, it is like a ripe vegetable; you must gather it, or it passes the time of its perfection; it may even be rotten ripe. We say, therefore, WORK THE VAT: withdraw from it, upon your cloth, its colour, which, as soon as you expose it to the atmosphere, will combine with its oxygen, - the oxygen with the carbon of the indigo and the woad. If you play with it too long, the putrid fermentation will begin, and the vat will be spoiled. The smell of rotten eggs always proclaims the approach of the mischief.
No one, therefore, should attempt to have a woad vat or vats, unless he can keep them nearly always at work. When worked down in a moderate time, and replenished with lime, woad, indigo, &c., working out and replenishing in, there can be no danger. On the other hand, in proportion as the vat is out of condition, although partially recovered, it must always be with more or less loss.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Whatever be the cause, most certain it is, that the woad vat, even when prepared in the most careful and scientific manner, is soon disposed, if not used, to go into the putrid fermentation; of this we may be satisfied, when it smells like rotten eggs, as stated above.
The loss of a woad vat to dyers is extremely serious, both from the quantity of woad, as well as of indigo, which it contains: these articles being always expensive. The woad vat being worked by heat directly applied from an open fire, (the old method of heating it,) was much more liable to be lost than if it remained cold, or was worked continually, as it usually now is in London; added to which, the more equable application of heat by steam, there is not now the danger which there was in cessation, at uncertain times, and in uncertain states of the vat, as to richness or poorness of woad or of indigo.
But a dyer in the country, whose business is barely sufficient to keep a vat going, will find more difficulty in this respect. If, therefore, he does a small batch of work on Monday, but has not half worked down his vat, and has no prospect for two or three days of doing any more work, he may possibly try to keep it with lime for a day or two: he may do so, and in the issue, in some instances, too much lime is the consequence. We consider, however, that when the vat can be worked daily, and replenished as it is worked down, as is the case in London, with care and attention, there is no danger of the loss of a woad vat: in London, such an accident now seldom happens. The author is, notwithstanding, persuaded that all the art of man cannot always keep a vat from the state of having either too much or too little lime, when heated but seldom, under a short course of work: for when a vat is in order, it is like a ripe vegetable; you must gather it, or it passes the time of its perfection; it may even be rotten ripe. We say, therefore, WORK THE VAT: withdraw from it, upon your cloth, its colour, which, as soon as you expose it to the atmosphere, will combine with its oxygen, - the oxygen with the carbon of the indigo and the woad. If you play with it too long, the putrid fermentation will begin, and the vat will be spoiled. The smell of rotten eggs always proclaims the approach of the mischief.
No one, therefore, should attempt to have a woad vat or vats, unless he can keep them nearly always at work. When worked down in a moderate time, and replenished with lime, woad, indigo, &c., working out and replenishing in, there can be no danger. On the other hand, in proportion as the vat is out of condition, although partially recovered, it must always be with more or less loss.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To work a vat which is in proper order.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The vat being in a proper state, the cross suspended, and thirty ells of cloth ready, or scoured wool in proportion, designed for black, by dyeing it of a blue grey; and having passed and repassed the cloth through the liquor for a full half-hour, it is to be wound round the winch, and thrown off into the barrow, and aired by the listings to change the green to blue. After this, a second piece may be dyed by the same process.
Having made this overture, or first stirring, as it is also called, the vat must be stirred afresh, adding lime; but not so much as to destroy the proper smell and feel. If the vat be in a good state, on the first day, it may be stirred three or four times; but it must not be overworked, particularly on the second day.
Concerning the colours to be obtained to the best possible advantage from afresh vat on the first day, - the first is for black, the next for royal blue, and the third a brown green. On the second day, violet, purple, and Turkey blues in the last stirring. On the third day, if the liquor be too much diminished, it must be filled up with hot water. At the end of the week, light blues may be done, and on Saturday night add rather more lime, to preserve the vat till Monday morning. On Monday morning add more indigo, and stir the paste; keep the vat liquor at a proper distance from the top. Cover it for two hours; then put in a pattern, and in an hour take it out; add lime according to the green shade of the pattern, and in an hour or two, if your vat has not suffered, you may begin working it afresh.
To keep the cloth, &c. from the sediment, there is always let down into the vat, before the work is begun, an iron circle, with cords fastened from the circumference to the centre.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The vat being in a proper state, the cross suspended, and thirty ells of cloth ready, or scoured wool in proportion, designed for black, by dyeing it of a blue grey; and having passed and repassed the cloth through the liquor for a full half-hour, it is to be wound round the winch, and thrown off into the barrow, and aired by the listings to change the green to blue. After this, a second piece may be dyed by the same process.
Having made this overture, or first stirring, as it is also called, the vat must be stirred afresh, adding lime; but not so much as to destroy the proper smell and feel. If the vat be in a good state, on the first day, it may be stirred three or four times; but it must not be overworked, particularly on the second day.
Concerning the colours to be obtained to the best possible advantage from afresh vat on the first day, - the first is for black, the next for royal blue, and the third a brown green. On the second day, violet, purple, and Turkey blues in the last stirring. On the third day, if the liquor be too much diminished, it must be filled up with hot water. At the end of the week, light blues may be done, and on Saturday night add rather more lime, to preserve the vat till Monday morning. On Monday morning add more indigo, and stir the paste; keep the vat liquor at a proper distance from the top. Cover it for two hours; then put in a pattern, and in an hour take it out; add lime according to the green shade of the pattern, and in an hour or two, if your vat has not suffered, you may begin working it afresh.
To keep the cloth, &c. from the sediment, there is always let down into the vat, before the work is begun, an iron circle, with cords fastened from the circumference to the centre.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To remedy the deficiency of lime.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
If the vat be not too far gone, after the addition of a little bran, madder, and some woad, then try the patterns from hour to hour; thus you will be enabled to judge.
A deficiency of lime is evident when there is no effervescence on the liquor; and when, by dashing about the surface of the liquor, it makes a hissing noise, and by the bursting of a number of small air bubbles, which as soon as they are formed break, and appear tarnished, and are not large, nor of a fine colour; the liquor too has an offensive smell, like rotten eggs; it is harsh and dry to the feel, and the sediment, as has been before observed, does not change colour when taken out of the liquor.
Sometimes such a condition of the vat is absolutely irremediable; but when not gone too far, sprinkle some lime into the liquor, and stir it. If you can thus remedy the defect, and bring the liquor to smell of lime, and to feel soft, cover the vat, and let it stand. If, at the expiration of an hour and a half, the effervescence begin, you may put in a pattern; in an hour afterwards, it may be taken out, and regulate your process by the degree of green which the pattern has imbibed; but, in general, when vats are thus out of order, they are not so soon recovered.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
If the vat be not too far gone, after the addition of a little bran, madder, and some woad, then try the patterns from hour to hour; thus you will be enabled to judge.
A deficiency of lime is evident when there is no effervescence on the liquor; and when, by dashing about the surface of the liquor, it makes a hissing noise, and by the bursting of a number of small air bubbles, which as soon as they are formed break, and appear tarnished, and are not large, nor of a fine colour; the liquor too has an offensive smell, like rotten eggs; it is harsh and dry to the feel, and the sediment, as has been before observed, does not change colour when taken out of the liquor.
Sometimes such a condition of the vat is absolutely irremediable; but when not gone too far, sprinkle some lime into the liquor, and stir it. If you can thus remedy the defect, and bring the liquor to smell of lime, and to feel soft, cover the vat, and let it stand. If, at the expiration of an hour and a half, the effervescence begin, you may put in a pattern; in an hour afterwards, it may be taken out, and regulate your process by the degree of green which the pattern has imbibed; but, in general, when vats are thus out of order, they are not so soon recovered.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. Rules to judge of the state of the vat. Indications when a vat has had too much or too little lime.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Rules to judge of the state of the vat.
The vat is ready for working, and to dye blue, when the sediment at the bottom, on being taken out of the vat changes to a fine brown-green. When the froth which rises in great bubbles on the surface is of a fine Prussian-blue, and when the pattern which has been steeped an hour, comes out of a dark grass-green, and changes in the air to a blue; when the liquor is clear and reddish, and the drops which stick to the rake are brown; when the sediment changes colour on being taken out of the liquor, and becomes brown on exposure to the open air; when the liquor is neither harsh nor greasy to the feel, and neither smells of lime nor of ley, the vat is known to be in a proper state for working.
Indications when a vat has had too much or too little lime.
These extremes ought to be carefully avoided. When the lime is deficient, or a pattern comes out of a dirty grey, and the sediment does not change its colour, there is scarcely any effervescence on the vat; the liquor smells only of lime, or of the lixivium of lime.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Rules to judge of the state of the vat.
The vat is ready for working, and to dye blue, when the sediment at the bottom, on being taken out of the vat changes to a fine brown-green. When the froth which rises in great bubbles on the surface is of a fine Prussian-blue, and when the pattern which has been steeped an hour, comes out of a dark grass-green, and changes in the air to a blue; when the liquor is clear and reddish, and the drops which stick to the rake are brown; when the sediment changes colour on being taken out of the liquor, and becomes brown on exposure to the open air; when the liquor is neither harsh nor greasy to the feel, and neither smells of lime nor of ley, the vat is known to be in a proper state for working.
Indications when a vat has had too much or too little lime.
These extremes ought to be carefully avoided. When the lime is deficient, or a pattern comes out of a dirty grey, and the sediment does not change its colour, there is scarcely any effervescence on the vat; the liquor smells only of lime, or of the lixivium of lime.
22.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. To prepare the indigo mentioned in the preceding directions
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Boil, in a gallon of water, for three quarters of an hour, two ounces of pot-ash, three quarters of an ounce of madder, and one ounce of bran; then let the whole settle for half an hour. After all is settled and taken out of the boiler, and put into another copper with four ounces of indigo finely powdered, the liquor should be kept stirred, and very hot, but not be boiled. At intervals some lixivium of lime should be put into it, and that being cold will keep the liquor from boiling, and render the pot-ash more active.
As soon as the indigo is dissolved and properly diluted, damp the fire and cover over the solution; after it is settled put in a pattern, which, when taken out, will turn blue on being exposed to the air; if it does not, more clear lixivium must be added. Of this solution of indigo such proportions are to be added to the woad vat as are directed in the preceding process.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Boil, in a gallon of water, for three quarters of an hour, two ounces of pot-ash, three quarters of an ounce of madder, and one ounce of bran; then let the whole settle for half an hour. After all is settled and taken out of the boiler, and put into another copper with four ounces of indigo finely powdered, the liquor should be kept stirred, and very hot, but not be boiled. At intervals some lixivium of lime should be put into it, and that being cold will keep the liquor from boiling, and render the pot-ash more active.
As soon as the indigo is dissolved and properly diluted, damp the fire and cover over the solution; after it is settled put in a pattern, which, when taken out, will turn blue on being exposed to the air; if it does not, more clear lixivium must be added. Of this solution of indigo such proportions are to be added to the woad vat as are directed in the preceding process.
21.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. A pastil or woad vat for blue
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take, upon as small a scale as can conveniently be tried, a copper vessel, which will contain about twelve gallons, two thirds full of soft water, and one ounce of madder. Fix this small copper in a larger copper of water, so that the heat may be applied to keep the liquor in the smaller copper at a proper temperature; it will be then, in fact, a water bath.
Having kindled the fire in the afternoon, put in a good handful of bran and five pounds of woad; at five o'clock in the evening let it be well stirred and covered over, the liquor being about blood-warm; let the same heat be continued as nearly as possible, at least so as not to be lower than summer heat by the thermometer, nor higher than ferer heat by the same instrument. The vat must again be well stirred at seven, at nine, at twelve at night, at two in the morning, and at four.
Hellot, describing this process, observes, that "the woad then working, some air bubbles began to rise pretty large, but few in number, and of a very faint colour; it had then two ounces of lime added, and was stirred; this was four o'clock in the morning; at five a pattern was put in, and at six it was taken out and the vat stirred. This pattern had received some colour. At seven o'clock another pattern was put in, and at eight it was stirred again. The second pattern was tolerably bright. An ounce of prepared indigo, (see p. 75.) was then added; at nine o'clock another pattern was put in; at ten it was stirred again, taking the pattern out, and putting in an ounce of lime because it began to smell sweetish; at eleven another pattern; at twelve at noon it was stirred again. This process was continued till five o'clock in the evening; then were added three ounces of prepared indigo; at six another pattern was tried, and at seven it was stirred again; the last pattern came out of a very good green, and became a bright blue. One ounce of lime was added to sustain it till nine o'clock the next morning; patterns were put in from time to time: the last was very beautiful. The vat was then filled up with water and a small quantity of bran and stirred; after which patterns were tried every hour till five o'clock in the evening, when, being in a proper state, it was immediately worked. Some time was then added to preserve it; it was stirred and left to another opportunity to reheat."
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take, upon as small a scale as can conveniently be tried, a copper vessel, which will contain about twelve gallons, two thirds full of soft water, and one ounce of madder. Fix this small copper in a larger copper of water, so that the heat may be applied to keep the liquor in the smaller copper at a proper temperature; it will be then, in fact, a water bath.
Having kindled the fire in the afternoon, put in a good handful of bran and five pounds of woad; at five o'clock in the evening let it be well stirred and covered over, the liquor being about blood-warm; let the same heat be continued as nearly as possible, at least so as not to be lower than summer heat by the thermometer, nor higher than ferer heat by the same instrument. The vat must again be well stirred at seven, at nine, at twelve at night, at two in the morning, and at four.
Hellot, describing this process, observes, that "the woad then working, some air bubbles began to rise pretty large, but few in number, and of a very faint colour; it had then two ounces of lime added, and was stirred; this was four o'clock in the morning; at five a pattern was put in, and at six it was taken out and the vat stirred. This pattern had received some colour. At seven o'clock another pattern was put in, and at eight it was stirred again. The second pattern was tolerably bright. An ounce of prepared indigo, (see p. 75.) was then added; at nine o'clock another pattern was put in; at ten it was stirred again, taking the pattern out, and putting in an ounce of lime because it began to smell sweetish; at eleven another pattern; at twelve at noon it was stirred again. This process was continued till five o'clock in the evening; then were added three ounces of prepared indigo; at six another pattern was tried, and at seven it was stirred again; the last pattern came out of a very good green, and became a bright blue. One ounce of lime was added to sustain it till nine o'clock the next morning; patterns were put in from time to time: the last was very beautiful. The vat was then filled up with water and a small quantity of bran and stirred; after which patterns were tried every hour till five o'clock in the evening, when, being in a proper state, it was immediately worked. Some time was then added to preserve it; it was stirred and left to another opportunity to reheat."
20.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter IV. On Scouring and Dyeing Wool. On the action of alum and tartar upon wool.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Wool is usually scoured for being dyed with stale urine, the staler the better; it is used in the proportion of one part to three parts of water, full as hot as the hands can bear when the wool is worked about in the fluid. — If the wool be in the fleece, what is called its natural yolk, and which is said to preserve the wool from the moth, is of a greasy nature, and is scoured out by the volatile alkali in the urine. If the wool be in the state of spun yarn it has gallipoli, or rape oil, in its thread, the spinner, or rather the comber, using it to render the wool more flexible, &c. It is absolutely necessary that wool, (as indeed every other material to be dyed) should be made very clean and white, if any brilliant or bright colour is to be imparted to it. For this reason it is that the wool is passed two, three^ and in some instances even four times through fresh scouring liquors; in the last, and sometimes in that which precedes the last, soap is used in the proportion of from seven to fourteen pounds, and in some instances to twenty one pounds or more, to a pack of two hundred and forty pounds of wool, according as it is fine or coarse: for superfine colours more than common is used. Worsted requires less than coarse yarn, having less grease and dirt in it.
It ought, however, to be known, that boiling wool for a long time in any alkaline liquors, or a liquor made of soap, tends greatly to the decomposition of the cloth; indeed long boiling in any strong alkaline ley converts wool into a kind of soap, and, hence, it is easy to see why such processes injure wool or cloths made with it.
The preceding observations apply to the alkalies in a caustic state, or in the state of carbonate, not when they are neutralized by powerful acids: for wool, when fit to receive the dyes, and if it is designed to be dyed yellow, should boil two hours with one-tvvelfth or one-tenth of its weight, of sulphate of alum (common alum) observing proper precautions, and the use of a sufficient quantity of prepared weld plant boiled, &c.; or of quercitron bark, as will be shown in the processes of the different yellows. If it were yarn, and the threads cut in two, it would be found dyed throughout, and of a body and richness in proportion to the correct application of the various ingredients, and with due regard to time, weight, measure, &c.
In the process just mentioned, we may observe, that the quantity of alum and of the weld plant used will be found very considerable: from one twelfth to a fourth of alum, and, according to the French method, four or five times more weld than the quantity of the wool.
When a process of dyeing has been scientifically conducted, the wool will take so much of the alum that the bath will hardly taste of it; and afterwards take the colour of the dye bath out of it; so that the remaining liquor put into a glass will be nearly like water.
On the action of alum and tartar upon wool.
From the experiments of Dr. Ure, {Notes to Berthollet, vol. ii. p. 323.) it appears that alum has the property of increasing the solubility of cream of tartar; that as, in using alum and tartar, the wool is impregnated with alum and a large quantity of tartaric acid, these two salts should never be employed together, except when the colour is susceptible of being heightened and rendered brighter by acids, as is the case with cochineal, madder, and kermes. On the contrary, alum should never be employed for wools intended to be dyed with woad, or Brazil-wood, the colour of which is easily destroyed or altered by acids.
To conclude these preliminary observations, wool has a strong and powerful affinity for all dyeing materials; and, therefore, the processes for dyeing wool are, in general, by no means so complicated as those for dyeing cotton, silk, &c.; although some colours, even to these, are readily, and without a complication of processes, imparted.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Wool is usually scoured for being dyed with stale urine, the staler the better; it is used in the proportion of one part to three parts of water, full as hot as the hands can bear when the wool is worked about in the fluid. — If the wool be in the fleece, what is called its natural yolk, and which is said to preserve the wool from the moth, is of a greasy nature, and is scoured out by the volatile alkali in the urine. If the wool be in the state of spun yarn it has gallipoli, or rape oil, in its thread, the spinner, or rather the comber, using it to render the wool more flexible, &c. It is absolutely necessary that wool, (as indeed every other material to be dyed) should be made very clean and white, if any brilliant or bright colour is to be imparted to it. For this reason it is that the wool is passed two, three^ and in some instances even four times through fresh scouring liquors; in the last, and sometimes in that which precedes the last, soap is used in the proportion of from seven to fourteen pounds, and in some instances to twenty one pounds or more, to a pack of two hundred and forty pounds of wool, according as it is fine or coarse: for superfine colours more than common is used. Worsted requires less than coarse yarn, having less grease and dirt in it.
It ought, however, to be known, that boiling wool for a long time in any alkaline liquors, or a liquor made of soap, tends greatly to the decomposition of the cloth; indeed long boiling in any strong alkaline ley converts wool into a kind of soap, and, hence, it is easy to see why such processes injure wool or cloths made with it.
The preceding observations apply to the alkalies in a caustic state, or in the state of carbonate, not when they are neutralized by powerful acids: for wool, when fit to receive the dyes, and if it is designed to be dyed yellow, should boil two hours with one-tvvelfth or one-tenth of its weight, of sulphate of alum (common alum) observing proper precautions, and the use of a sufficient quantity of prepared weld plant boiled, &c.; or of quercitron bark, as will be shown in the processes of the different yellows. If it were yarn, and the threads cut in two, it would be found dyed throughout, and of a body and richness in proportion to the correct application of the various ingredients, and with due regard to time, weight, measure, &c.
In the process just mentioned, we may observe, that the quantity of alum and of the weld plant used will be found very considerable: from one twelfth to a fourth of alum, and, according to the French method, four or five times more weld than the quantity of the wool.
When a process of dyeing has been scientifically conducted, the wool will take so much of the alum that the bath will hardly taste of it; and afterwards take the colour of the dye bath out of it; so that the remaining liquor put into a glass will be nearly like water.
On the action of alum and tartar upon wool.
From the experiments of Dr. Ure, {Notes to Berthollet, vol. ii. p. 323.) it appears that alum has the property of increasing the solubility of cream of tartar; that as, in using alum and tartar, the wool is impregnated with alum and a large quantity of tartaric acid, these two salts should never be employed together, except when the colour is susceptible of being heightened and rendered brighter by acids, as is the case with cochineal, madder, and kermes. On the contrary, alum should never be employed for wools intended to be dyed with woad, or Brazil-wood, the colour of which is easily destroyed or altered by acids.
To conclude these preliminary observations, wool has a strong and powerful affinity for all dyeing materials; and, therefore, the processes for dyeing wool are, in general, by no means so complicated as those for dyeing cotton, silk, &c.; although some colours, even to these, are readily, and without a complication of processes, imparted.
19.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To dye silk violet or purple with Brazilwood and archil.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk when alumed is to be dyed in the decoction of Brazil wood according to the shade required; it is then to be washed and dyed in archil: and it is afterwards washed a second time. After this it is dipped in the blue vat, and wrung and dried with the same accuracy used in greens and blues.
For dyeing silk black and some other colours, see Chapter s V. and VI.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk when alumed is to be dyed in the decoction of Brazil wood according to the shade required; it is then to be washed and dyed in archil: and it is afterwards washed a second time. After this it is dipped in the blue vat, and wrung and dried with the same accuracy used in greens and blues.
For dyeing silk black and some other colours, see Chapter s V. and VI.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To dye silk violet with Brazil-wood and logwood.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk must be alumed and cooled as usual; it is then to be alumed and dyed in a liquor made of Brazil wood of the common heat, then in the cold logwood liquor, and lastly, a solution of pearl-ash must be added to the liquor in which the silk is last dyed. It is afterwards to be washed and dried; but for some shades it is best to have fresh liquor, particularly for the warm Brazil, the cold logwood, and the solution of pearl-ash: in this case the quantity of each may be much better regulated.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk must be alumed and cooled as usual; it is then to be alumed and dyed in a liquor made of Brazil wood of the common heat, then in the cold logwood liquor, and lastly, a solution of pearl-ash must be added to the liquor in which the silk is last dyed. It is afterwards to be washed and dried; but for some shades it is best to have fresh liquor, particularly for the warm Brazil, the cold logwood, and the solution of pearl-ash: in this case the quantity of each may be much better regulated.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To dye silk a violet or purple with logwood.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk should be alumed and washed. The logwood should be boiled in large quantities like fustic, as was directed for green; but it should not be kept longer than two or three weeks; it is far better used cold than hot.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The silk should be alumed and washed. The logwood should be boiled in large quantities like fustic, as was directed for green; but it should not be kept longer than two or three weeks; it is far better used cold than hot.
18.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To Dye Silk lilac. Another process for lilac. Another process for dyeing muslin, &c. lilac.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To Dye Silk Lilac.
Lilac is and should be a bright light shade of violet or purple; to give it the blue requires great management. The vats being generally too strong, it is best to mix a little of the new rich vat with some pearl-ash in clean cold water, and so prepare a liquor on purpose, by which the lilacs may be blued or reddened at pleasure. When this liquor is first mixed it becomes of a green colour; the silks therefore should not be dipped till the liquor begins to lose its green colour and inclines to blue. Pearl-ash added to this liquor helps to blue the archil, because the effect of the alkali upon red is to render it violet.
Another process for lilac
Consists in simply using the chemical blue with archil according to the shade required.
Another process for dyeing muslin, &c. lilac.
This is accomplished by mixing the neutralized chemic blue for cotton with the pink dye of safflower, according to the shade required.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To Dye Silk Lilac.
Lilac is and should be a bright light shade of violet or purple; to give it the blue requires great management. The vats being generally too strong, it is best to mix a little of the new rich vat with some pearl-ash in clean cold water, and so prepare a liquor on purpose, by which the lilacs may be blued or reddened at pleasure. When this liquor is first mixed it becomes of a green colour; the silks therefore should not be dipped till the liquor begins to lose its green colour and inclines to blue. Pearl-ash added to this liquor helps to blue the archil, because the effect of the alkali upon red is to render it violet.
Another process for lilac
Consists in simply using the chemical blue with archil according to the shade required.
Another process for dyeing muslin, &c. lilac.
This is accomplished by mixing the neutralized chemic blue for cotton with the pink dye of safflower, according to the shade required.
17.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To dye silk violet, royal purple, &c.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Boil archil with water in a copper; the quantity of archil according to the colour required must be from two to four times the weight of the silk. When the archil has boiled about ten minutes the fire must be damped, the archil left to subside, and the clear liquor put into a vessel of a convenient size, in which the silk is to be immersed and worked with care.
You must have a small corresponding pattern that you intend for purple, which at times you must put into the blue vat to regulate the depth of the archil ground, as the purple is a compound colour, arising from the blue of the indigo and the red of the archil. When the red of the archil is deep enough, you must wash it off and put it into the blue vat with proper precaution. The fulness of the archil ground and the depth of the blue, must be regulated according to the patterns which are to be matched.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Boil archil with water in a copper; the quantity of archil according to the colour required must be from two to four times the weight of the silk. When the archil has boiled about ten minutes the fire must be damped, the archil left to subside, and the clear liquor put into a vessel of a convenient size, in which the silk is to be immersed and worked with care.
You must have a small corresponding pattern that you intend for purple, which at times you must put into the blue vat to regulate the depth of the archil ground, as the purple is a compound colour, arising from the blue of the indigo and the red of the archil. When the red of the archil is deep enough, you must wash it off and put it into the blue vat with proper precaution. The fulness of the archil ground and the depth of the blue, must be regulated according to the patterns which are to be matched.
16.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. Another blue vat for silk.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take fifty pounds of good indigo in fine powder; fifty pounds of fresh slacked stone lime; one hundred pounds of sulphate of iron; and five pounds or more of pearl-ashes. Stir often for three or four days till there is a fine copper-colour scum on the top of the liquor in the vat. The vat is of course to be set with water in the usual way.
The substance of this form is from M'Kernan; we cannot, however, avoid thinking, that his directions for this vat are very vague.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take fifty pounds of good indigo in fine powder; fifty pounds of fresh slacked stone lime; one hundred pounds of sulphate of iron; and five pounds or more of pearl-ashes. Stir often for three or four days till there is a fine copper-colour scum on the top of the liquor in the vat. The vat is of course to be set with water in the usual way.
The substance of this form is from M'Kernan; we cannot, however, avoid thinking, that his directions for this vat are very vague.
15.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. The blue vat of indigo for silk.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
This should be so contrived that heat may be applied to it, which it now mostly is, by steam, as well for woollen woad vats as for indigo vats. For silk, take eight pounds of the finest indigo and six pounds of the best pearl-ash, and from three to four ounces of madder for every pound of ash, besides eight pounds of bran for the whole, washed in several waters to take the flour out. When washed, and the water squeezed out, the bran is to be put at the bottom of the vat; the pearl-ash and the madder being mixed by bruising them roughly together, are now to be l)oiled a quarter of an hour in a copper containing two-thirds of the vat; the fire being damped, the liquor is then suffered to rest. Two or three days previous to this the indigo is to be steeped in a bucket of warm water, and washed well, the water being changed once or more. Some dyers begin by boiling the indigo in a ley made with one pound of pearl-ash and two buckets of water; they afterwards pound it in a mortar quite wet, and, when it becomes like paste, fill the mortar with the liquor before boiled, and still hot, stirring it for some time. It is then suffered to stand a few moments, and then the clear is poured off into a separate boiler or into the vat. The same quantity of the mixture is then poured upon the indigo remaining in the mortar and mixed as before; again the clear is poured off into the boiler, and the operation is repeated till the whole of the indigo is dissolved in the liquor. The whole of the liquor in the boiler is now to be gradually poured into the vat on the bran at the bottom, adding afterwards the remainder of the composition, grounds and all.
After stirring and raking for some time, the mixture is left to cool till it will bear the hand in it, when a little heat is added to keep it in this state, and so continued till it begins to turn green, which is easily known by trying it with a little silk. When the green begins to appear it should be stirred with the rake, then suffered to stand till the brown and coppery scum which rises upon the surface shews that the vat is come to; or, in other words, the preparation of this part of the process is complete. But as it is necessary to be very certain of this, the scum should be well examined; and if, when blown aside, a fresh scum is immediately formed it is as it ought to be. In this state it is to remain for three or four hours, when a new composition is thus made: —
Put as much water as is requisite to fill the vat into a copper, boiling it with two pounds of pearl-ashes and four ounces of madder as at first. This new liquor is to be poured into the vat, raked and mixed, and being left to stand for four hours it is then ready for dyeing.
When a vat or vats are set for green, double the quantity of madder must be added. (See Chap. VI.)
The size of the vat for the above quantity of indigo, should be about five feet deep, two feet or two feet and a half in diameter at the top, and one foot and a half or two feet in diameter at the bottom: the form of an inverted frustum of a cone; or of a sugar loaf inverted, with the pointed top cut off.
In order to produce different shades of blue, the silk intended for the darkest, should be first dipped in the fresh vat and so on to the lightest; as the vat weakens, the silk should be kept in longer, till the vat, being exhausted, serves only for the lightest shades. When it begins not only to be weak but dull, it is then necessary to feed the vat with the following composition:
Take of the decoction of pearl-ash with indigo one pound; of madder, two ounces; and a handful of washed bran; boil them together for a quarter of an hour, either in water or a portion of the same vat if yet sufficiently full to afford it; after this mixture is added, it should be well raked and suffered to rest two or three hours, more or less, before the dyeing is resumed.
For the finest blues, however, a fresh vat is the best; and if only pale blues are required, a vat set on purpose with less indigo will answer better than a strong vat which has been weakened, because though weak it will give more vivid colours.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
This should be so contrived that heat may be applied to it, which it now mostly is, by steam, as well for woollen woad vats as for indigo vats. For silk, take eight pounds of the finest indigo and six pounds of the best pearl-ash, and from three to four ounces of madder for every pound of ash, besides eight pounds of bran for the whole, washed in several waters to take the flour out. When washed, and the water squeezed out, the bran is to be put at the bottom of the vat; the pearl-ash and the madder being mixed by bruising them roughly together, are now to be l)oiled a quarter of an hour in a copper containing two-thirds of the vat; the fire being damped, the liquor is then suffered to rest. Two or three days previous to this the indigo is to be steeped in a bucket of warm water, and washed well, the water being changed once or more. Some dyers begin by boiling the indigo in a ley made with one pound of pearl-ash and two buckets of water; they afterwards pound it in a mortar quite wet, and, when it becomes like paste, fill the mortar with the liquor before boiled, and still hot, stirring it for some time. It is then suffered to stand a few moments, and then the clear is poured off into a separate boiler or into the vat. The same quantity of the mixture is then poured upon the indigo remaining in the mortar and mixed as before; again the clear is poured off into the boiler, and the operation is repeated till the whole of the indigo is dissolved in the liquor. The whole of the liquor in the boiler is now to be gradually poured into the vat on the bran at the bottom, adding afterwards the remainder of the composition, grounds and all.
After stirring and raking for some time, the mixture is left to cool till it will bear the hand in it, when a little heat is added to keep it in this state, and so continued till it begins to turn green, which is easily known by trying it with a little silk. When the green begins to appear it should be stirred with the rake, then suffered to stand till the brown and coppery scum which rises upon the surface shews that the vat is come to; or, in other words, the preparation of this part of the process is complete. But as it is necessary to be very certain of this, the scum should be well examined; and if, when blown aside, a fresh scum is immediately formed it is as it ought to be. In this state it is to remain for three or four hours, when a new composition is thus made: —
Put as much water as is requisite to fill the vat into a copper, boiling it with two pounds of pearl-ashes and four ounces of madder as at first. This new liquor is to be poured into the vat, raked and mixed, and being left to stand for four hours it is then ready for dyeing.
When a vat or vats are set for green, double the quantity of madder must be added. (See Chap. VI.)
The size of the vat for the above quantity of indigo, should be about five feet deep, two feet or two feet and a half in diameter at the top, and one foot and a half or two feet in diameter at the bottom: the form of an inverted frustum of a cone; or of a sugar loaf inverted, with the pointed top cut off.
In order to produce different shades of blue, the silk intended for the darkest, should be first dipped in the fresh vat and so on to the lightest; as the vat weakens, the silk should be kept in longer, till the vat, being exhausted, serves only for the lightest shades. When it begins not only to be weak but dull, it is then necessary to feed the vat with the following composition:
Take of the decoction of pearl-ash with indigo one pound; of madder, two ounces; and a handful of washed bran; boil them together for a quarter of an hour, either in water or a portion of the same vat if yet sufficiently full to afford it; after this mixture is added, it should be well raked and suffered to rest two or three hours, more or less, before the dyeing is resumed.
For the finest blues, however, a fresh vat is the best; and if only pale blues are required, a vat set on purpose with less indigo will answer better than a strong vat which has been weakened, because though weak it will give more vivid colours.
14.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter III. On Dyeing Silk. To alum silk.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Forty or fifty pounds of alum being dissolved in a copper of hot water, the solution is to be poured into a tub containing forty or fifty pails of cold water; during the mixing of the solution of alum with the water it should be well stirred lest the cold water should crystallize the alum and spot the silk; when, however, this happens, dipping silk in warm water will dissolve the alum. The silk should be alumed cold, for, if hot, the lustre of the silk will be injured. Alum is used for certain reds and yellows but not for blue. See also Chapter VI.
When silk is deprived of its gum so as to acquire the greatest possible degree of whiteness, it is still necessary to have different shades of white, some yellow, some blue, and others reddish; these are known under five denominations, namely, China white, India white, thread or milk white, silver and azure white. All these whites, although differing from each other by very slight shades, are nevertheless apparent, especially when compared with each other, which will be seen in the processes of dyeing silk.
For ungumming and boiling, whitening and sulphuring silk, see Chapter VI.
We have described M'Kernan's method of preparing and neutralizing sulphate of indigo in pages 51 and 52, to which the reader will be kind enough to refer: the following blue vat is from Macquer.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Forty or fifty pounds of alum being dissolved in a copper of hot water, the solution is to be poured into a tub containing forty or fifty pails of cold water; during the mixing of the solution of alum with the water it should be well stirred lest the cold water should crystallize the alum and spot the silk; when, however, this happens, dipping silk in warm water will dissolve the alum. The silk should be alumed cold, for, if hot, the lustre of the silk will be injured. Alum is used for certain reds and yellows but not for blue. See also Chapter VI.
When silk is deprived of its gum so as to acquire the greatest possible degree of whiteness, it is still necessary to have different shades of white, some yellow, some blue, and others reddish; these are known under five denominations, namely, China white, India white, thread or milk white, silver and azure white. All these whites, although differing from each other by very slight shades, are nevertheless apparent, especially when compared with each other, which will be seen in the processes of dyeing silk.
For ungumming and boiling, whitening and sulphuring silk, see Chapter VI.
We have described M'Kernan's method of preparing and neutralizing sulphate of indigo in pages 51 and 52, to which the reader will be kind enough to refer: the following blue vat is from Macquer.
13.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter II. On Dyeing Cotton. To dye cotton pink.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take safflower in proportion to its goodness and the quantity of work to be dyed; put it into pure and clear water; tread it in the water till the water becomes fully charged with a kind of extractive yellow colour. It is best to put the safflower into a strong linen bag or sack; a sack containing sixty pounds will take a man two days to wash it clean: if done in a clear running stream the yellow colour will of course run away; if you have a small quantity in a tub it must be let out at a plug-hole, which every flat tub should have. The safflower must he worked or trod till all the yellow colour is got out of it, or the pink to be obtained from it afterwards tvill not be bright.
When the safflower is thoroughly washed, take it out of the bag and put it into a deal tub or trough, and add to it pearl-ash in the proportion of six pounds to one hundred pounds of the safflower, which should be weighed before it is wetted. Let the potash be well dissolved in water; pour part of the clear solution off, and mix it thoroughly with the safflower; after having stood for some time strain the liquor through a cloth or sieve into another deal trough. The whole solution of pearl-ash should not be put in at once, but at different times. If there should be reason to believe that the safflower will yield more colouring matter by a farther addition of the solution of pearl-ash, such additional solution may be made. The water for the solution and the solution to the safflower should both be applied cold. Carbonate or mild potash is better than the caustic. By putting the solution of pearl-ash on the safflower at different times it will be readily seen when the fluid passes through the cloth or sieve free from colour.
The colour is of a cherry hue, and is resinous, therefore the water dissolves but little of it; the carbonate of potash is added to dissolve this resin.
To overcome the influence of the pearl-ash, which tinges the red of a yellow colour, some cream of tartar must be finely powdered and dissolved in boiling water, and added to the liquor when it is nearly cold. In the South of France lemon juice is used.
The colour, being thus raised by the cream of tartar, is now to be mixed with cold water in proportion to the fulness of the pattern desired, and the cloth must be worked six or seven times in it, as in other colours.
What is left of the colour must be taken up with some skein cotton, and dried; this may be added to water upon another occasion by saturating the acid with a solution of pearl-ash, which will abstract the dye from the cotton.
The solution of tartar will again redden the colour from the yellow of the pearl-ash; this must be done if any remain, for it will not keep in a fluid state.
We shall not here describe any other process with cotton till we have treated of wool and silk.
For dyeing cotton black, and some other colours, see the Chapter s V. and VI.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take safflower in proportion to its goodness and the quantity of work to be dyed; put it into pure and clear water; tread it in the water till the water becomes fully charged with a kind of extractive yellow colour. It is best to put the safflower into a strong linen bag or sack; a sack containing sixty pounds will take a man two days to wash it clean: if done in a clear running stream the yellow colour will of course run away; if you have a small quantity in a tub it must be let out at a plug-hole, which every flat tub should have. The safflower must he worked or trod till all the yellow colour is got out of it, or the pink to be obtained from it afterwards tvill not be bright.
When the safflower is thoroughly washed, take it out of the bag and put it into a deal tub or trough, and add to it pearl-ash in the proportion of six pounds to one hundred pounds of the safflower, which should be weighed before it is wetted. Let the potash be well dissolved in water; pour part of the clear solution off, and mix it thoroughly with the safflower; after having stood for some time strain the liquor through a cloth or sieve into another deal trough. The whole solution of pearl-ash should not be put in at once, but at different times. If there should be reason to believe that the safflower will yield more colouring matter by a farther addition of the solution of pearl-ash, such additional solution may be made. The water for the solution and the solution to the safflower should both be applied cold. Carbonate or mild potash is better than the caustic. By putting the solution of pearl-ash on the safflower at different times it will be readily seen when the fluid passes through the cloth or sieve free from colour.
The colour is of a cherry hue, and is resinous, therefore the water dissolves but little of it; the carbonate of potash is added to dissolve this resin.
To overcome the influence of the pearl-ash, which tinges the red of a yellow colour, some cream of tartar must be finely powdered and dissolved in boiling water, and added to the liquor when it is nearly cold. In the South of France lemon juice is used.
The colour, being thus raised by the cream of tartar, is now to be mixed with cold water in proportion to the fulness of the pattern desired, and the cloth must be worked six or seven times in it, as in other colours.
What is left of the colour must be taken up with some skein cotton, and dried; this may be added to water upon another occasion by saturating the acid with a solution of pearl-ash, which will abstract the dye from the cotton.
The solution of tartar will again redden the colour from the yellow of the pearl-ash; this must be done if any remain, for it will not keep in a fluid state.
We shall not here describe any other process with cotton till we have treated of wool and silk.
For dyeing cotton black, and some other colours, see the Chapter s V. and VI.
12.2.15
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter II. On Dyeing Cotton. To dye cotton a fast buff.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take a brown stone pan or pipkin, glazed. It must not be the common glazed wares, because these are glazed with lead, and the acids will dissolve the lead; if, therefore, such are used, the lead being dissolved, will be mixed with the dyeing materials, and sometimes totally spoil the dye. Stone-ware, if used with care, will bear the fire: such ware is usually glazed with muriate of soda or common salt.
Having a proper vessel capable of holding from two quarts to a gallon, fill it half-full of strong nitric acid, to which add, in small quantities at a time, either old horse-shoe nails from the farrier, they being the purest iron, or the cuttings of tin-plate from the tin-man's, for this is also very pure iron, although covered with tin; but the small portion of tin in the iron is not inimical to the dye. Be careful not to put too much in at a time, nor to stoop near to it while the solution is going on, as the red fumes arising are very noxious; and if the iron be added in large quantity, so much effervescence would be produced, that a considerable part of the liquor would be thrown over the top of the vessel.
When this solution is prepared in haste the air is greatly contaminated, and therefore it is best to prepare it long before it is wanted, and slowly, by dropping hourly small quantities of the iron into the acid, and then little if any perceptible fumes will arise. Continue this process till, by stirring with a glass rod or tobacco-pipe, you find the iron dissolves more slowly: by keeping a little iron at the bottom, and occasionally adding the acid, you may always have this preparation at hand.
It is to be used thus: — having a copper of hot water ready, put a part of it to some cold in a flat tub till the mixture is as hot as the hand will bear; then, according to the paleness or fulness of your pattern, add some of the solution of iron, and mix it well by stirring: begin with about half a pint for two pieces of twenty-four yards each: it is best to add a smaller quantity than is necessary first, as you can make another addition as you please, but, if you add the solution in excess, to diminish it is by no means so easy. Now, having ready a flat tub with water of as hot a temperature as the hand will bear, put into it a clear solution of pearl-ash, and have also ready another tub of clear cold water to wash off in; then pass the pieces (always taking care to have them well wetted out in one of the tubs of hot water before either the solution of iron or pearl-ash is put into either of them) through the solution of iron six or seven times, edging them over by the selvage to keep them even; next, folding them first even upon a board, vvring them out, wash them off and pass them through the solution of pearl-ash; lastly, wash them off again in fresh and clean water: a permanent and bright buff will be found, and as good a colour as can be dyed upon cotton.
We here see what an affinity iron and cotton have for each other when the iron is combined with an acid and the combination in a liquid state. Although the colour is not so beautiful in every instance, yet, be the acid which dissolves the iron what it may, cotton imbibes the iron from it.
What is left of the solutions of iron and the pearl-ash may each be kept in a separate deal tub for use.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
Take a brown stone pan or pipkin, glazed. It must not be the common glazed wares, because these are glazed with lead, and the acids will dissolve the lead; if, therefore, such are used, the lead being dissolved, will be mixed with the dyeing materials, and sometimes totally spoil the dye. Stone-ware, if used with care, will bear the fire: such ware is usually glazed with muriate of soda or common salt.
Having a proper vessel capable of holding from two quarts to a gallon, fill it half-full of strong nitric acid, to which add, in small quantities at a time, either old horse-shoe nails from the farrier, they being the purest iron, or the cuttings of tin-plate from the tin-man's, for this is also very pure iron, although covered with tin; but the small portion of tin in the iron is not inimical to the dye. Be careful not to put too much in at a time, nor to stoop near to it while the solution is going on, as the red fumes arising are very noxious; and if the iron be added in large quantity, so much effervescence would be produced, that a considerable part of the liquor would be thrown over the top of the vessel.
When this solution is prepared in haste the air is greatly contaminated, and therefore it is best to prepare it long before it is wanted, and slowly, by dropping hourly small quantities of the iron into the acid, and then little if any perceptible fumes will arise. Continue this process till, by stirring with a glass rod or tobacco-pipe, you find the iron dissolves more slowly: by keeping a little iron at the bottom, and occasionally adding the acid, you may always have this preparation at hand.
It is to be used thus: — having a copper of hot water ready, put a part of it to some cold in a flat tub till the mixture is as hot as the hand will bear; then, according to the paleness or fulness of your pattern, add some of the solution of iron, and mix it well by stirring: begin with about half a pint for two pieces of twenty-four yards each: it is best to add a smaller quantity than is necessary first, as you can make another addition as you please, but, if you add the solution in excess, to diminish it is by no means so easy. Now, having ready a flat tub with water of as hot a temperature as the hand will bear, put into it a clear solution of pearl-ash, and have also ready another tub of clear cold water to wash off in; then pass the pieces (always taking care to have them well wetted out in one of the tubs of hot water before either the solution of iron or pearl-ash is put into either of them) through the solution of iron six or seven times, edging them over by the selvage to keep them even; next, folding them first even upon a board, vvring them out, wash them off and pass them through the solution of pearl-ash; lastly, wash them off again in fresh and clean water: a permanent and bright buff will be found, and as good a colour as can be dyed upon cotton.
We here see what an affinity iron and cotton have for each other when the iron is combined with an acid and the combination in a liquid state. Although the colour is not so beautiful in every instance, yet, be the acid which dissolves the iron what it may, cotton imbibes the iron from it.
What is left of the solutions of iron and the pearl-ash may each be kept in a separate deal tub for use.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter II. On Dyeing Cotton. Solution of indigo for penciling printed muslin, &c.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To twenty-five gallons of water, add sixteen pounds of indigo, and thirty pounds of carbonate of potash; when mixed, and placed over the fire, as soon as the mixture begins to boil, add quick lime, by a little at a time, to render the alkali caustic; then twelve pounds of red orpiment, and boil till it will give a yellow colour to transparent glass.
This form is from Haussman, Were the author to make this solution of indigo, he would first make the alkali caustic with lime, and then put the clear liquor to the other materials.
Mr. M'Kernan gives another form for pencil blue with indigo: the principal differences between which and the above, consist in adding equal parts of brown sugar and gum Senegal to it, which, in regard to the addition of the gum, is, we presume, a great improvement.
Dr. Ure (Notes to Berthollet, Vol. II. page 437.) gives a similar form from Vitalis, for topical or pencil blue; but he adds, it was much used formerly. Another blue, of less permanence but more brilliance, is now preferred; it is made thus: —
Into an earthen pot four ounces of finely ground and sifted Prussian blue are to be put. Over this must be slowly poured, stirring all the while, sufficient muriatic acid to bring it to the consistence of syrup. The mixture is to be stirred every hour for a day, and afterwards thickened with from four to eight pots (of two litres each; a litre French contains about two wine pints; ) of gumwater, according to the shade wanted.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
To twenty-five gallons of water, add sixteen pounds of indigo, and thirty pounds of carbonate of potash; when mixed, and placed over the fire, as soon as the mixture begins to boil, add quick lime, by a little at a time, to render the alkali caustic; then twelve pounds of red orpiment, and boil till it will give a yellow colour to transparent glass.
This form is from Haussman, Were the author to make this solution of indigo, he would first make the alkali caustic with lime, and then put the clear liquor to the other materials.
Mr. M'Kernan gives another form for pencil blue with indigo: the principal differences between which and the above, consist in adding equal parts of brown sugar and gum Senegal to it, which, in regard to the addition of the gum, is, we presume, a great improvement.
Dr. Ure (Notes to Berthollet, Vol. II. page 437.) gives a similar form from Vitalis, for topical or pencil blue; but he adds, it was much used formerly. Another blue, of less permanence but more brilliance, is now preferred; it is made thus: —
Into an earthen pot four ounces of finely ground and sifted Prussian blue are to be put. Over this must be slowly poured, stirring all the while, sufficient muriatic acid to bring it to the consistence of syrup. The mixture is to be stirred every hour for a day, and afterwards thickened with from four to eight pots (of two litres each; a litre French contains about two wine pints; ) of gumwater, according to the shade wanted.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter II. On Dyeing Cotton. Another cold blue vat for linen and cotton.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The indigo is to be powdered, and put into warm water with sulphate of iron, in quantity twice the weight of the indigo, to which is also to be added, the same weight of fresh-burnt lime. The water should be only sufficient to mix it thick at first; keep it stirred; and, as it becomes dissolved and green under the surface, increase the water, often stirring and trying the mixture, by putting in a pattern between the stirrings, at some hours distance, between each pattern, and increasing the water: in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
The indigo is to be powdered, and put into warm water with sulphate of iron, in quantity twice the weight of the indigo, to which is also to be added, the same weight of fresh-burnt lime. The water should be only sufficient to mix it thick at first; keep it stirred; and, as it becomes dissolved and green under the surface, increase the water, often stirring and trying the mixture, by putting in a pattern between the stirrings, at some hours distance, between each pattern, and increasing the water: in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use.
The Dyer's Guide. Chapter II. On Dyeing Cotton. To dye cotton a fast green with the cold indigo vat and weld.
The Dyer's Guide
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
After dyeing muslin blue in the blue vat, weld must be boiled in the same manner as for fast yellow. The quantity of weld to be used, must be according to the fulness of the blue ground, and of what shade the green is to be; a proportion of alum must also be used. The goods, after being worked in the same manner by the selvage, must be washed olf, and stiffened, if for the glazer, but not if for dress, but be framed by the muslin dresser.
Being a Compendium of the Art of Dyeing
Linen, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses, Furniture, &c. &c.
With The Method of
Scouring Wool, Bleaching Cotton, &c.
And
Directions for Ungumming Silk, And For Whitening And Sulphuring Silk And Wool.
And Also
An Inttroductory Epitome of The Leading Facts in Chemistry, As Connected With The Art of Dyeing.
By Thomas Packer,
Dyer and Practical Chemist.
"Cet arte est un des plus utiles et des plus merveilleux qu'on connoisse."
- Chaptal.
"There is no art which depends so much on chemistry as dyeing."
- Garnett.
Second Edition,
Corrected and Materially Improved.
London:
Printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, And Piper,
Paternoster-Row.
1830.
After dyeing muslin blue in the blue vat, weld must be boiled in the same manner as for fast yellow. The quantity of weld to be used, must be according to the fulness of the blue ground, and of what shade the green is to be; a proportion of alum must also be used. The goods, after being worked in the same manner by the selvage, must be washed olf, and stiffened, if for the glazer, but not if for dress, but be framed by the muslin dresser.